MOST COMMON PARTS FOR FISHER, Sticky needed?

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by larryderouin, Oct 15, 2010.

  1. arts

    arts Super Member

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    1,744
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    Qc, Canada
    There's nothing in New York?!?!
     
  2. RUmad

    RUmad Well-Known Member

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    738
    Location:
    New York
    Not anywhere near me. Not anymore. Luckily, sort of, there's still a radio shack. Last time I was there the salesman asked me what I needed, I said I'm looking for a rectifier. He said a what? Never mind, I'll just dig in the bins.
     
  3. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Alan; FISHER used at least 3-4 different Fuse or Festoon type lamps in their separates and console tuners. They generally were festoon and there were short (as used in the Solid State receivers) Fuse, and short or long festoon as used in the tube receivers and Console tuners. The longest are the almost 3" long festoons used in my 1965 Futura and Custom Electra. I have to take 1/4" tubing and solder it to the ends of the new fuse or festoons to get a fit.

    BTW; FYI www.joe.com has fuse types in 6-8-12v and 1 or 2 festoons. Hell of a lot cheaper than P.E. Festoons like arts allluded to are a vanishing breed, and electrical surplus houses are probably the best place to find them
     
  4. RUmad

    RUmad Well-Known Member

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    738
    Location:
    New York
    I got lucky, mine work. For now. Haven't checked my FM90 yet. I'll keep all that in mind. It'll get to the bench after I get the x-101-c in the rack and after I straighten out my Bogen.
     
  5. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Alan: I forgot to mention most electrical lighting supply places can order parts for you if they don't have them in stock. But you need spec's. Voltage, amps, or watts, length, diameter at minimum. Prbably best to take one with you to get best results.

    Larry
     
  6. RUmad

    RUmad Well-Known Member

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    738
    Location:
    New York
    Yes sir, I'll have to remember that in case one of mine breaks. Thanks
     
  7. Kingfisher

    Kingfisher Well-Known Member

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    722
    Location:
    Western MI
    The Mouser part # in your original post for the 8A 400v bridge rectifier is incorrect. # 512-GBPC3504W is for a 35A bridge.
     
  8. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Good eye King Fisher. I checked my stock and made the change after checking the # on Mouser. RECTRON 583-BR84
     
  9. reed338

    reed338 New Member

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    18

    After searching around on various threads discussing the construction of these individual tube bias boards ive noticed that none of the 500/800 builds place the grid leak resistors directly on the board. The 220k resistors usually are somehow cobbled precariously in their original location with one lead flying unsupported to a lead going back to the board. Is there a reason for this, would any issues come from locating the grid resistor on the IBAM and wiring leads to the original terminals?
     
  10. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Old Habits Mainly. No reason why you couldn't move the grid return resistors to the IBAM Board as long as your board will accomodate the extra parts. As i recall the 800c terminal strips are long enough to accomodate both ends of the grid return resistors.(going from memory here so don't take it as GOSPEL.) Just remove the common bias buss wire and then add the individual bias wires to the end needed. (Again, going on memory here). On the 400, I use a terminal strip or two mounted to the chassis, to tie down the flying end of the resistor and to connect the bias leads from the IBAM BOARD.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2017
  11. bhamham

    bhamham AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    The long wires may be an inductance issue. I'd leave them where they are but that's just me.
     
  12. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    On the 400's you can replace the 2 terminal strip shown circled with 3 terminal strips, and connect the resistors individually so no flying leads. You can do the same thing on the 500/800's. Might be a tight squeeze, but do-able!

    This is a 400. You can do the same thing on a 500/800.
    100_4508 modded.jpg


    3 lug term strip.jpg
     
  13. reed338

    reed338 New Member

    Messages:
    18
    There is no current to the node where the coupling capacitor, 1k and 220k resistors meet. So I wouldnt think parasitics in 8 inches of wire would matter at all....thats why i was wondering why people insisted on leaving the grid leak resistors as close to the original location as possible.

    Yup, this is a good lean way of doing it. The original design has three terminals...two for each node to the 1k resistors, then a common point for the bias voltage wire. Adding a new terminal strip would do it cleanest. I just dont like the flying leads at all.
     
  14. larryderouin

    larryderouin Do I get Food, Med's, or more gear this Month? Subscriber

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    Sometimes a Brick Flies, sometimes it doesn't.
     
  15. reed338

    reed338 New Member

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    huh? :dunno:
     

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