Most Common Parts Needed For Fishers!

yep. Although at 121 to 123 it won't hurt your 400 to run it on the wall as it's designed to run120V without problems. I have 124 to 126 at my house and only one of my consoles is running a buck transformer and that's a 12v bucking transformer as the '51 Coronet was designed for 110. Everything else runs off the wall. But then again I keep an eye on my heater voltages and I'm not overly anal with respect to the wall voltages like some guys are. I've been running tubes in various gear sincei was a kid and still have a Hammarlund SP-600 shortwave military transceiver, my dad gave me when I was 13 from Navy Surplus. It needed some Main Filter caps and a tune up, which when compared to a 400, the 400 is childs play. I still break it out and run it straight from the wall.

Ultimately it's up to you, and the Hammond will do the job.
 
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I’m trying to locate the correct replacement lamps for my 400-C. The tiny micro threaded base bulbs. I’ve already ordered a sleeve of the incorrect bulbs. No big deal, cheap enough, but all five out is just driving me nuts. I can’t seem to find them anywhere, even in here. Does anyone have a line on them?
 
Hopefully someone with real knowledge will pipe up. I just thought of him right away as he has helped me before. Good dude too. Post back what you find please. Who knows how long my bulbs will last !
 
Can anyone let me know which replacement RCA connector work well with my Fisher 100 railcars. Mine are worn out and loose and my high quality cables won't stay in!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Live The Fish!!
 

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Seven year old link! Radioantiques.com is still there, and still carry dial cord. I just checked.
 
It doesn't really bother me that much.
But,....
Has anybody got a source for the square piece of plastic that fits into The Fisher 400's dial glass (in front of the tuning indicator)?
I guess it's not really the sort of part to be spare. Probably the only way I'd get one would be to buy a unit listed for parts.
But, who in their right mind would break up a The Fisher 400?
Anyway; You just never know.
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Jim (West Sussex/UK)
 
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It doesn't really bother me that much. And I very much doubt anybody has a spare.
But,....
Has anybody got the square piece of plastic that fits into The Fisher 400's dial glass (in front of the tuning indicator)?
I guess it's not really the sort of part to be spare. Probably the only way I'd get one would be to buy a unit listed for parts.
But, who in their right mind would break up a The Fisher 400?
Anyway; You just never know.
View attachment 2271999
Jim (West Sussex/UK)
I think somebody was making 3d printed replicas? Unfortunately I can't remember who?
 
What do you guys use for safety capacitors? 0.01uF / 600vdc in Fisher 400. One for AC line bypass and another for rectifier bypass to ground. I have some from Mouser that I think should be good. Can anyone confirm?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/75-F17733102000

Also, does anyone know the original rating for rectifier diodes? Or what is recommended? Overrating is easy but I'd rather have burned diode than the power transformer.
 
What do you guys use for safety capacitors? 0.01uF / 600vdc in Fisher 400. One for AC line bypass and another for rectifier bypass to ground. I have some from Mouser that I think should be good. Can anyone confirm?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/75-F17733102000

Also, does anyone know the original rating for rectifier diodes? Or what is recommended? Overrating is easy but I'd rather have burned diode than the power transformer.

I use Y rated caps such as this one. Y rated are for line to ground for avoiding electric shock. X rated are for line to line for avoiding fires.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kemet/PME271Y510MR30/1927357

In terms of diodes. I typically use UF4007 in my Fishers. They are basic and ubiquitous. I've never had a problem with one.
 
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