Motor for Realistic Lab 290??

[kyrie59]

Anyone know where to get a motor for a Lab 290?? Or maybe a kit to switch motors??
Thanks again!!
btw... just put a Audio Technica AT95e cartridge on to replace the stock Shure, and still in shock!! Who knew such a fine cartridge could be had for less than $75!! Even sounds good with the speed variations of the wore out motor!!

 

[alteclipsch]

Are you sure it's the motor? I'm no expert, but I see threads here dealing with capacitors etc controlling turntable motors. Just sayin'.

 

[kyrie59]

Are you sure it's the motor? I'm no expert, but I see threads here dealing with capacitors etc controlling turntable motors. Just sayin'.

I should check it out... just assumed the motor is wore out, it's so old.
Thanks for the response.

 

[alteclipsch]

I should check it out... just assumed the motor is wore out, it's so old.

I hope some of the turntable experts will chime in here. I think it's unlikely the motor is bad, it could be something as easy as a few squirts of Deoxit on the controls or lube on the spindle. Old grease thickens and causes all kinds of trouble, too. Good luck with it.

Edit: I just did a bit of a search on the Lab 290 and it appears it is quite a good TT, made by either CEC or Rotel in the early 1980s. Belt drive, so it likely needs a new belt which I'm sure are available. Do a Google search, you'll find lots if info, including other threads on AK.

I love my Realistic tables, a Lab 400 and a Lab 390.

 

[kyrie59]

I hope some of the turntable experts will chime in here. I think it's unlikely the motor is bad, it could be something as easy as a few squirts of Deoxit on the controls or lube on the spindle. Old grease thickens and causes all kinds of trouble, too. Good luck with it.

Edit: I just did a bit if a search on the Lab 290 and it appears it is quite a good TT, made by either CEC or Rotel in the early 1980s. Belt drive, so it likely needs a new belt which I'm sure are available. Do a Google search, you'll find lots if info, including other threads on AK.

I love my Realistic tables, a Lab 400 and a Lab 390.

Yes, thanks again... I had almost given up on it, but seeing/buying the AT95e cartridge for bulk pricing really got me going again. Just can't believe how good it sounds. I wanted to hear that _true high fidelity_ sound again after yrs and yrs of digital, but just don't have the money to spare for nicer pieces. But this tt-cart combo is worth the effort.
Thanks for sharing, and enjoy those Realistic tts.

 

[ndes01njd]

It's most likely a slipping belt. I just replaced the belt on my LAB 300 and she's running "rock steady".

Don't forget to oil the motor and spindle while you're in there

 

[kyrie59]

Yes, I oiled the spindle, but the motor is shot; vibrating, making noise, and won't even start the platter (have to start with finger).
Been working on something I wanted since young; a manual TT. I took all that crap off the shaft, leaving just the shaft and bearings... makes an old man happy!!
Thanks for the help!!

 

[Meatbix]

Not sure if you ever sorted this out but I’ve just successfully replaced the motor in one of these. First things first, what appears to be the motor which mounts using three screws on rubber mounts is actually a motor inside a metal housing. You’ll need to prise the brass pulley off (it’s only a push fit but it’s tight), then pop the bottom of the metal housing off and drop the actual motor out.
The actual motor unit is a Mabuchi RF-510TD. The closest unit I could find was an RF-510T- these are available very cheaply online, I paid $8 to have one posted from Hong Kong. The motor I received was identical except for having a shorter shaft. However this isn’t a problem as there is still sufficient shaft length to push the pulley far enough onto for secure operation. You’ll need to remove the pulley that the new motor ships with, then assemble the new motor into the housing in place of the old one, including the rubber and plastic mounts/washers. Once it’s in the casing push the original pulley onto the shaft (but not all the way on or it will foul the casing when turning and be noisy) and reassemble the whole thing. Wire it up temporarily and ensure it’s turning the right way (reverse the wires if it turns backwards) then hook the wires up permanent and it should be good to go. Mine didn’t even need speed adjustments, it was dead on 33/45 as soon as I put the new motor on. A cheap and pretty easy job.

 

[bimasta]

The actual motor unit is a Mabuchi RF-510TD.

I see this is your first post here, so welcome to AK — and it was an auspicious debut! One thing I love about this bunch is someone always seems to have the answer, no matter how obscure the question.

So now, Meatbix, where do I get a new motor for my Mitsubishi LT-20? The old one sounds like a cement-mixer

 

[Meatbix]

Whoops I’m and idiot, I tried to reply to your post and accidentally used the report function, I’m half asleep! Not trying to report you!

I mainly shared my experience with the LAB-290 as it was a bit of a gamble but it solved the question quite definitively and provided an easy fix for others. My advice with the Mitsubishi is to just do the same- pull the motor and if it has a model number see what eBay etc turns up that is a close match, and order one if it’s not too expensive/looks like it’ll fit.