My Excellent RS1 Adventure

I have yet to measure large-value inductors used in Infinitys that are anywhere close to where they should be. I don't know why this is. Your experience too?
G~
Definitely the same. There are two iron core inductors in the speaker I am working on. They are labeled (and on the schematic as) 6.5mH, and 3.0mH. They measured 3.4mH and 1.7mH. The air core inductors are closer to what they should be.

Plus, the air core inductors I bought from Parts Express can be as much as 20% off, which while not being as bad as the Infinity pieces is still annoying.

Out of curiosity I ordered some (more than I need) Solen inductors made from Litz wire. Those should be interesting to play with.
 
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I've now rebuilt one passive crossover to upgrade the capacitors and convert it to be (mostly) like the RS1b crossover. Here's what it looks like now:

Infinity RS1 Passive Xover Modified.jpg

Components in BOLD have been replaced or are new. I kept three inductors and one potentiometer, and replaced or added everything else. Now I'm going to set up an A/B environment playing in mono so I can compare the modified mid/upper tower to the unmodified one. I hope they sound different after all of that work and expense!!! (Also see PDF version, attached).
 

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Update. Q: What is this?​

RS1_Banana_Jack.jpg

A: It is a RS1 woofer tower banana jack.

Why is it on my counter top? Because it fell out the back of the speaker. Why did it do that? Because the nut came loose. So I took out the bottom woofer and reattached the nut and tightened things up. I also added a dab of Loctite so I won't have to do this again in 10 years.

Listening update: I've been doing some comparison with the mid/high tower I modified against the original unmodified tower. I started with pink noise, and they certainly are different. I then moved to female vocals, and some chamber music (piano and violin). The modified (RS1b specs) tower has a fuller midrange, and is less steely on the highs. More intensive listening is scheduled (I haven't level matched the two speakers yet).

P.S. This isn’t an opportunity to compare standard and high-end capacitors, as there were many component value changes in this upgrade. The original Infinity crossovers were pretty good: all of the electrolytics in the signal path were bypassed with polypropylene caps.
 
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Hmmm....lots of manufacturers recommend a “burn in” time. To me the weird part is some say for drivers and some say for electronics.
 
I did a re-cap of my RS 2.5's that I did not like the outcome of for well over a month. Then, one day I noticed that there was a distinct difference......Hey, that annoying upper midrange shrillness was gone and it has never returned. So I've experienced that there is a burn-in time and that sometimes it seems to take forever.
It wasn't something I could get used to.
I still hear that shrillness in other systems (and it still annoys the hell out of me), but not mine any more.

L.D.
 
Replacing old capacitors with new(hybrids?) with tighter parameters could be a crapshoot as to whether or not one will enjoy the resulting sound any more or any less:dunno:
A couple things are certain are that the new parts are new and you'll have to get used to the result:beerchug:
 
Replacing old capacitors with new(hybrids?) with tighter parameters could be a crapshoot as to whether or not one will enjoy the resulting sound any more or any less:dunno:
A couple things are certain are that the new parts are new and you'll have to get used to the result:beerchug:

This is the absolute truth. And I have a lot of incentive to get used to it, as it cost $400 per side to make these crossover improvements.
 
When I went to Pierce College and I knew traffic was rush hour bad, I'd stop by Sound Center(Woodland Stereo) and hang out.
Never bought a thing but Paul the manager was cool.
I recapped my 2000a's with some $big films$ resulting in much brighter presentation, the presence knob helped with that.
Have Fun with the restore!
Picture 2169.jpg

Picture 2174.jpg
 
When I went to Pierce College and I knew traffic was rush hour bad, I'd stop by Sound Center(Woodland Stereo) and hang out.
Never bought a thing but Paul the manager was cool.
I recapped my 2000a's with some $big films$ resulting in much brighter presentation, the presence knob helped with that.
Have Fun with the restore!
Very cool! I have a pair of Infinity 2000s (two tweeters, the precursor to the 2000As) which I bought from the factory in 1970. Your pair looks to be in great shape!
 
Cool.
Where was the factory in 1970?
In Canoga Park on Variel?
The very first pair of speaker I bought were also bought factory direct in Northridge.
Q4s, B-stock and very good deal for poor surfer like me:)
 
I recapped my 2000a's with some $big films$ resulting in much brighter presentation, the presence knob helped...

View attachment 1144306

Those black and red Callins capacitors were horrible. I'm glad you replaced them. My old AR's used them too. I finally replaced them last year. An A/B against old and new, clearly high-lighted the difference. Old was distorted, with audible static. Closed in, rolled off, and dark. New, crystal clear. Much, much better!
 
I did a re-cap of my RS 2.5's that I did not like the outcome of for well over a month. Then, one day I noticed that there was a distinct difference......Hey, that annoying upper midrange shrillness was gone and it has never returned. So I've experienced that there is a burn-in time and that sometimes it seems to take forever.
It wasn't something I could get used to.
I still hear that shrillness in other systems (and it still annoys the hell out of me), but not mine any more.

L.D.

I did a recap with ClarityCap ESA capacitors, and found issues with the fresh caps. Warm, and rich, but with a noticible roll off in the upper mids. Very pronounced. Sucked out. I thought they'd never improve and settle down.
 
I did a recap with ClarityCap ESA capacitors, and found issues with the fresh caps. Warm, and rich, but with a noticible roll off in the upper mids. Very pronounced. Sucked out. I thought they'd never improve and settle down.

My 2.5's were re-capped with a single 120uf Solen PA-MKP-FC (both measure 122uf). I have yet to do a better re-cap on them. Thinking to use 1/2 Mundorf EVO Oil and 1/2 Clarity CSA. Those two sound great in my RS II's. The EVO and the CSA are a good mixture of 'bright and polite'. Kinda balances things out.

L.D.
 
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