My First Fisher...Regent 6000 Modern

india42

AK Subscriber
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First I want to apologize for no pictures, I just got home with this and it's still in the back of my truck. I don't think my wife and I can lift it by ourselves, so it'll be there for a few days. I'll see if I can snap a few pictures tomorrow, however I can tell you this thing is in pretty nice shape. Everything is there, r-200 tuner, 400cx-2 (I think, looks like the pictures I've seen anyway), TA-900 Amp, Ampex F-44 R2R, and Elac Miracord 10 turntable, they all look very nice and as far as I can tell they have all the tubes. This is the first tube gear, and I'm not really sure how to proceed. I bought at a storage unit, so no way to test it, there was some paperwork with it. The story is that it was one owner that recently died and her sons didn't want it so it was on it's way to a thrift. It appears that there was some work done because with all the paperwork, I found a burned out bulb, a tube, a resistor, a capacitor and a couple of output transistors (they look like outputs).
So, I don't have a variac, I do have a DBT that I made awhile ago, not sure if that will work. Do you think it's OK to fire this thing up...I'm really curious. I've heard so many good things about the 400cx pre, I can't wait to try it out. I'm pretty excited, I never score anything like this!!
Paul
 
Not a expert but I do know Not to fire it up..........Congrats on a nice piece of Fisher History......Patience is your friend here.....Al
 
I'm not in a hurry, but I appreciate any advice I can get. I kind of figured not to power it up, but you never know so thought I'd ask. I forgot to mention that this came with a couple of external speakers, they're pretty light so I'm not expecting much. I thought they were also Fisher, but I just did a google search and none of the Fishers I found look like these. They have a brand on them, but they're out in the garage, I'll check them out tomorrow. Also had a Sennheiser stereo microphone, the number on the box says 'MDS 1' looks like a serial number 0187.
In case anyone asks, those transistors have 'SK3717' and '8212' and a green dot on them. The tube says 'The Fisher' on it the rest is illegible.

I'll get some pictures and take a closer look at everything tomorrow. I feel like a kid on Christmas!
 
You have a 1964 Regent II model 6000

Specs;
Fisher Regent II Console (1964)
(Model 6000)

Chassis: R-200, 400-CX-2, TA-900

TT: Miracord 10
R2R: Ampex 1250

35 Tubes, 14 Transistors/120 Watts

Price: $2095 (Provincial/Italian Provincial) $1995 (Modern)
1964RegentIIM.jpg

This is just below the President and above the Executive in the line up. The TA-900 Amp has 10 or so transistors (all germanium). This is one of the Rareist HYBRID AMPS FISHER ever made. 2yrs and only on the Regent and the President. The amp is highly sensitive to adjustments so best to leave it to a tech who has the experience with it or similar amps. Your best bet is to find a shop with a tech who has worked on tube gear since the 60's. The TA-900 is shown in the '65 President Service Manual. Use that one for the AMP. http://www.fisherconsoles.com/president x 9010 service manual page.html

Take out the R-200 and the CX-2, Pull all tubes one at a time, clean the pins with DeOxit and a toothbrush, and reinsert the tube in the socket a few times while wet with the Deoxit. Clean the Chassis of dust and dirt. Flip over each chassis and open the bottom of them and look for burn't components, and loose wires, etc. DO NOT PLUG IN PERIOD!
Set aside for testing by a Tech.
Manuals are here...................... http://www.fisherconsoles.com/regent II 6000.html
You can test and clean the Miracord of old grease (remove it from all parts underneath) by tearing it down completely. Make sure you have a camera handy, and take pictures of each part removed in order (lay them out in order on a clean towel or pillow case that is old and the wife ok's for trash). Clean and lube each piece and reassemble. The Miracord Manual is here.............https://www.vinylengine.com/library/elac/miracord-10.shtml Registration is FREE.


Just Plugging this unit in and seeing if it will work CAN be HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH and the UNIT! DON'T DO IT. The urge is great when purchasing consoles to just plug them in and go to town. You'll have to dis-assemble the whole thing and check, clean, test, replace parts BEFORE anything is plugged in to either a Variac and or a DBT!!! NO IF's, AND's, BUT's, or Maybe's. These components carry HIGH VOLTAGES that can at minimum light you up like Chevy Chase in Christmas Vacation and Maximum leave you on the floor with CRT's compressing your chest, and breathing for you just to get your heart started again! OR Worst case, leave your wife a widow! If you have any doubts, leave it to someone who KNOW's how to work on them. This goes for ALL Tube components, and to a lesser degree Solid State gear, but Solid State gear can still KILL YOU! So if you have any doubts, leave it to a tech.

On the Transistors; Most likely these have been replaced once already. The part # for the outputs on the TA-900 is 35144. And they should be RCA with that #. The SK3717 is an RCA replacement. The original driver transistors should be a 2n2375. The 8212's may be replacing these.

So be CAREFUL, GO SLOW. In time this should be a kick ass console. Be warned tho, if a transistor goes, they WILL COST YOU! to the tune of $40-$50 each!


https://www.vinylengine.com/library/elac/miracord-10.shtml
 
Wow, Thanks for the info, I have resisted the temptation to put power to her yet. I took the tuner and preamp out this morning, looks like there is an assortment of tubes (RCA, Sylvania, Amperex(1), Fisher, some marked W. Germany, Telefunken(1), etc.), and the components look relatively clean. I haven't taken the bottom off yet but I will. The TA-900 might be a problem, it has a few different transistors in there (466-99S-7144, 466-99S-6601. SK3009-8523, SK3718-043, SYL-ECG121-3AAB), plus mine only has 2 big capacitors (cans), but the pictures I've seen have 3. I've never seen an amp with 3 big caps, usually 2 or 4, so it makes me very paranoid to plug it in.
The 2 external speakers I mentioned above turned out to be Altec 836a 'The Lido', they have a 755c and a 402c in each cabinet, I haven't hooked them up yet either, maybe later. The Miracord has a Pickering V15/AT3 cartridge, and there are about 3 additional needles, I'm assuming they are spent. I don't have any Deoxit, I do have some Radio Shack cleaner, but I think I'll hold off and get the good stuff. I'm not in a hurry, I live in Spokane WA. so I'm not sure about finding a tech with the skills you speak of. I'd hate to have to send this stuff somewhere, but it may become necessary. I spent $250 on everything, which I thought was a pretty good deal, so I would be willing to put some money into it.

Thanks again for the info,
Paul
front.jpg components.jpg miracord.jpg ampex.jpg back.jpg amp.jpg
 
TOP to Bottom in the last picture.
Main Power Transformer
2 Main Filter caps
2 speaker (Dual) Resistors (White)
Interstage transformers.

This is normal configuration of the TA-900

That thing looks PRISTINE, with the exception of the TA-900 having been worked on. Honestly I wouldn't trust it, but don't toss it. Keep it with the console as a historic piece. The big problem with the 1st gen amps is they used Germanium Transistors and had a super sensitive Bias system that WOULD blow transistors just by looking at it cock-eyed. I would suggest finding a newer amp of comparable wattage or slightly more and installing it in place of the TA-900. Not too many techs have the know how to work on this monster, and the one's that DO, are getting few and far between due to age. With the tuner and 400-CX-2 being self powered a straight amp that can be plugged in to the tuner or the cx-2's swirtched Aux pwr plugs would be best. A SA-16 amp (about 15W per channel running 7189's), or a 690A(about 25W per channel running 7591's) that has been converted to stand-alone would be about perfect.

Otherwise this is a straightforward Tube setup. Look on the FISHERCONSOLE site ( Http://www.fisherconsoles.com) at the presidents prior to 1964 down to 1961 or so. They used pretty much the same as you have now. The Amps were the SA-300-B which was FISHER's top offering in straight amps at the time. But any straight stereo amp would work in this unit. The 7189 (el84/6bq5's big brother) is a really good tube, but it's getting extremely hard and expensive to find old stock tubes in almost new condition. Russian 6P14p-Ev is a very good replacement tube and will handle the 7189 voltages and output. Sovtek has the EL-84M which is also a very good tube for 7189 replacements. Both are still available and relatively cheap. 7591's, you have 3 choices that are proven good tubes. Old Stock from a reputable dealer (expensive!) and the 2 Russian replacements. The EH7591 has a larger bottle but other than that is a very good tube, and has proven itself in the last 10-12 years. The Tung-Sol 7591 Re-Issue is also a Russain tube, has the original tube envelope (bottle), and is proving to be a very good tube, almost the equal of a Westinghouse IMO. I SAID Almost. If you remember that these tubes (7591 russian) are good up to about 90% of what the original Westinghouse can deliver without going chernobyl, then they'll work well. Also some circuit changes need to be made to a circuit using the Russian tubes. These circuit changes will also help old stock tubes.

Tubes: It's NOT required to use all fisher branded tubes. They came from Tele, Brimar, Mullard, Phillips, ITT, Valvo, etc. and had FISHER imprinted on them. Later on about 1965 Fisher went with Sylvania tubes in almost eveything they put tubes in. I prefer GE tubes in the tuner, but in the preamp / AMP, if I can get GE or RCA tubes fine, but Russian tubes are a hell of a lot cheaper and work just fine. If the small signal tubes test fine, I'll use them until they die, then replace with domestic tubes. In a console setting you really can't hear the difference in them. I've got 8 or 9 Fisher consoles, depending on how you count the 560 companion to the 510/610; a 1951 Coronet Mono; 1958 Contemporary; 1959 610 consolette (was originally a 510 but changed out the head unit); a 1960 560 companion to the 510/610; 1963 Executive. Model 960; '64 Custom Electra VII; a '65 Custom Electra VIII; 1965 Futura; 1969 Royal Electra.
All were stripped of running gear, the running gear fully restored, tested on the bench, then re-installed in the cabinets. It's really the only way to do it.
 
Well, I took all of the components out of the cabinet to make it a little easier to move. The wife and I managed to get it onto our enclosed porch and it allowed me to take a close look at these. I'm really surprised at the condition of these, it looks like I'm the first one in (probably not), with the exception of the amp, of course. So a couple questions, is there a certain type of Deoxit I should be using on these old parts? I would like to test the tubes, are there still places out there that have tube testers like the old days?
On another note, the Ampex appears to be full of Telefunken tubes, I haven't pulled them, and they're kind of hard to see, but at least 2 of them are and they look like new.
Thanks to Larry for all the info, it's appreciated!
ampbottom.jpg amptop.jpg prebottom.JPG pretop.jpg tunerbottom.jpg tunertop.jpg tag1.jpg
 
Thanks Music! This is the first tube gear I've ever acquired, and to me this looks amazingly clean. Luckily, I have other projects going on, so it helps me be patient with these...don't want to screw it up!

Paul
 
There are some work already done here: the big center can was replaced with a single electrolytic, a lot of new orange drops capacitors in the other pics.

Also, a burnt resistor bottom right in the first pic. Even if some components were replaced, find a good tech and don't try to power it up.
 
Wow, thanks Patrice, I didn't realize those orange caps were replacements! I guess this thing has been worked on, better find someone that knows what they're doing.
 
Paul; Add your location to your profile. There may be an AK'er whose local to you that would have a tube tester. The 400-CX2 and the Tuner look to have been recapped "recently". The Main Filter caps will need to be tested and possibly be replaced. However the AMP needs some work as Patrice pointed out. Sorry, I missed the Center Main Filter Cap. It's part of a + & - power supply Filter section. It's quite possible that there will be at least a couple of output transistors bad as both the LEFT and RIGHT side bottom have a 270ohm resistor blown. Check the fuses (F1 thru F4) and the blown ones(Probably F3 and F4) will tell you which transistors on the schematic are blown.

Every one of those gold colored axial Electrolytics in the AMP will have to be replaced. 99.9999994/10% sure they are FRAKO's and will be leaky (electrically). Look at the ends. They have a white rubber seal, and they start bulgeing and leaking. Nichicon TVX series will work fine here.

Yep. The F44 will most likely have a load of Tele's and unless the original owner used it a lot, they will be close to Virgin's. So unless you plan on using the R2R, you can use the 12ax7's (4 or 5 IIRC) for replacements in the 400cx2 if any are weak.
 
I notice your statement about the tuner and preamp being recapped had the word recently in quotes, I take that to mean it could have been several years ago, or last year. Is there a date code I could pull off the caps? I've pretty much figured the I won't be using the amp, so I'm not sure it will get restored, plus I'd rather put the money into the 400cx2 and tuner. As far as testing the filter caps, I only have a DMM (Fluke 27) and it does have a capacitance setting, but it doesn't check ESR or value. I'm pretty sure I could replace them myself, but if the units need anything else, I don't have the equipment to do it. I might be better off letting a professional do it, and anything else they might need. I would think the tuner needs an alignment, and I definitely don't have the equipment to do that!
I'm not sure about trusting a tech in Spokane, I guess if there is someone locally that has experience with tube gear, I just would hate to have someone do a hack job on it.
I was looking for a preamp to pair with a Carver M500t that I recently recapped and in my search, I came across a AEA 520 preamp. The deal never happened, it was a Craigslist listing that never responded to my e-mail so I let it go. In doing research on that preamp, I found the AEA Audio website and they sure do like tubes. They offer quite a few services for tube units, I may try to contact them. If anyone has suggestions, I'm open to them, I would like to try this and see how it sounds.

Thanks to everyone for the info!!
Paul
 
Paul; AK member's BLHAGSTROM, Nerdorama, both live in the PNW. They both know tube units, and Fishers, although I have more experience with Nerdorama in that he has FISHER GEAR. They would be a days' drive (round trip) rather than shipping to AEA. There are shops in the PNW that do good work on vintage stuff.

Orange Drops usually are good. very rarely go bad. There is generally a date code on the 2nd line of lettering.

If worse comes to worse, you could pair the Carver with the 400CX2 and the R200. I'll PM you with some thoughts on the TA-900 later tonight. I've got to go to a Carole King Concert at the Movies. 35th Anniversary and the wife wanted to go see it.
 
Another beautiful and rare TOTL console. The Regent has to be the rarest of all the fishers. Best of luck with it and DON'T TURN IT ON--yet!
 
Paul; Standard D5 DeOxit for cleaning of pots and switches, then follow up with F5 Faderlube. I also have found that CRC 626 Electrical lube is a good substitute for the F-5 and is 1/4 the cost. Home Depot has the CRC in the Electrical Dept. Being married does have it's downsides, and that is SWMBO(She Who Must Be Obeyed), usually carries access to the funds. So anything you can do to keep her from restricting access to the funds is good.

Larry
 
Hi Larry, thanks...D5, F5 got it! I'll be out and about tomorrow, I'll see if I can track some down. I don't really have that problem SWMBO (within reason)!

Paul
 
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