My Hot Rodded Marantz 1060

ictwoody

I like vintage gear — my preamp is from 2007.
I felt like this forum was an appropriate place for this. :)

I've always felt like the diminutive Marantz 1060 was a special amp in the lineup. The 30wpc is enough to power a good variety of speakers, and there is just something really "right" with the way is sounds.

The very first piece of gear I bought when I got into this hobby was a Marantz 1060. Being a designer by trade, I just saw a picture of one online somewhere, probably on some architectural interiors blog, and the perfectly symmetrical face just hooked me and I needed to get one. I purchased a nice example off of eBay back in about 2007. That's when I got hooked on audio.

I really liked the Marantz house sound for a while. I considered my self a "Marantz guy." I owned a 2230, a couple 2015's, a 250M/3600/120 stack, another 1060, some Marantz speakers, 6100 and 6300 turntables and probably some other pieces I'm forgetting, before venturing into the world of Kenwood, Pioneer and some others.

After sliding down the slippery slope that is hifi for quite some time I've kinda settle down... mostly in slightly higher-end, "high-value" modern pieces. But there was part of me that REALLY missed that little 1060 which I had sold off to fund the next thing. Well not too long ago I came across a fair deal on a really clean 1060 with the original box and packing, but with what the previous owner told me was a weak channel. I got the unit and it proceeded to sit in its box for over a year, until just recently.

Through some round-about conversations on AK, I decided that I wanted to have this amp FULLY restored. I had sold off two other 1060's and I decided that this one was going to stay, so I wasn't too worried about getting "upside down" in it by spending the cash to have it done up. I chose AKer and super-nice dude Bill Hirsch to do the work. Bill has been awesome and would 100% recommend him to anyone needing stuff worked on.

I got the amp back from Bill last week and today I finally hooked it up to my big Klipsch speakers and it sound AMAZING. This amp has one of the lowest, if not the lowest noise floor of any vintage pieces I've owned. Simple fantastic.

The reason I put this in the "Vintage Gear - Performance" forum is because of the restoration, and more importantly the mods.

Bill recapped the entire unit including replacing all of the electrolytic caps, replacing the main filter cap with a larger 6800mfd unit. He replaced all of the transistors in the preamp and tone control section with upgraded versions. The transistors in the phono section were replaced and he also changed the loading resistors from 100k to 47k which is more appropriate for current MM carts. He said the 100k was a late model change Marantz did because of some quad carts that were in-vogue at the time. The power supply diodes were replaced with ultrafast soft recovery diodes to reduce the noise floor. All of the signal path ceramic caps were replaced and all the signal path resistors were as well. He de-soldered and re-soldered all the joints on the amp and preamp sections as well as giving the amp a thorough cleaning, dexoit bath, 20+ hr burn in and fully adjusted it back to spec per the Marantz service manual. Whoo. That's a lot.

At it's rated output of 30wpc he said the distortion numbers are immeasurable, and at it's rated distortion this baby is cranking out 41wpc. Not to shabby!

The last of the mods that have been done are that I had swapped the cover with a black cover off of a Marantz 110 tuner I had for a more modern look, and Bill replaced the crappy factory binding spring clips with some 5-way posts I provided. He then removed the stock power cord and installed a new IEC connector. He also added some softer rubber feet which add just a bit of height and I'm totally sure they isolate the unit in a vastly superior way than the factory feet — but mostly cause my factory feet were missing. :)

These mods are awesome cause it makes this amp more like a modern integrated in the sense of how fast swapping it in and out of a system can be by using the power cord and banana speaker cables that are already right there in place.

Okay... I've rambled on enough. Here's the pics... I know that's all you guys clicked on the thread for anyway.

- Woody

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Pretty!

Do you know if the new speaker binding posts required any major mods from original? I have a 1060 that I recapped too and it'd be nice to have real jacks there.
 
Pretty!

Do you know if the new speaker binding posts required any major mods from original? I have a 1060 that I recapped too and it'd be nice to have real jacks there.

I don't know for sure but I didn't get the impression they were too hard. I know the IEC required a bit more work... case cutting, longer wires etc...

Bill seemed to really like these binding posts and asked me where I got them so he could get more. I'm sure you could PM him for more info on it. I'll PM you the link to the posts.

- Woody
 
I rebuilt one replacing all the lytics, using film caps to replace the small value lytics, new transistors, diodes and I even replaced all the resistors with metal films. I liked it so much I bought a second one. In the second one I left the carbon films alone. While the first one did seem to sound just a tad cleaner I'm not sure replacing them was worth the trouble. The 1060 is one of my favorite amps. I like the binding posts. I may give that a try. :thumbsup:
 
My son now has my second 1060. He is using it as a preamp connected to a 140 power amp. He was using a 1030 I have. It's too bad the word is out about the 1060. I payed around $100 for the first one in working condition. I payed $100 for the second one and it came partially disassembled with a blown amp board. I would like to have a 110 tuner to match, the 105 I have isn't very sensitive.
 
Curious if the IEC ground is connected as the standard plug did not have a ground connection.

I asked bill about the ground... This is what he had to say.

- Woody

"The ground on the IEC connector is attached tot he chassis - as it should be. This is also called a safety ground and protects you in case of a short between the line and any other part of the equipment. It is safer than the ungrounded approach that was in use in the 70s. It probably also contributes to the quietness you experience. Other devices in your system should be grounded directly to the ground post on the 1060 - this gives you a "star grounding system" which is usually the most effective. If you have newer devices (that have grounded 3-wire connections) you don't want to ground them to the 1060 as this could cause a ground loop and induce a hum. But experimentation is fine and safe."
 
Why? I can't imagine how a ground could be detrimental in this case. Do you have more info? I trust Bill's judgment and I know the amp sounds great...

- Woody
 
Also a Marantz guy. I run the 250/3300 combo in my main, but always was curious about the 1060. I will have one someday for sure.
 
The main filter cap is actually a Kemet (formerly BHC) ALS30 capacitor made for computer applications. It was increased from 4700mfd to 10,000mfd. The coupling caps were increased from 2200mfd to 6800mfd. The idea is stolen from BKtheKing. It just barely fits, (height-wise).
Pretty!

Do you know if the new speaker binding posts required any major mods from original? I have a 1060 that I recapped too and it'd be nice to have real jacks there.
They were actually easier to install than individual posts. The only modification was to enlarge the original mounting hole for the phenolic plate. The "hot" side of the posts gets a fiber washer and fits inside the original rectangular opening.
 
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thanks for that.

I've read here by those whose opinions we respect to not do that, in general. I don't know enough yet to determine the pros and cons of grounding a unit that was designed without a ground.
If you are interested in learning more, just drop me an email and I can send several articles.

I like the grounded chassis because it gives a single point for a star grounding approach. The only potential complication is interconnection of modern equipment that is also grounded (potential ground loop), but you deal with that in the same way any modern sound installation.
 
They were actually easier to install than individual posts. The only modification was to enlarge the original mounting hole for the phenolic plate. The "hot" side of the posts gets a fiber washer and fits inside the original rectangular opening.

Thanks. I ordered the same jacks with the kind info from ictwoody.

I'll probably be able to see what you mean when I get them in this afternoon - but do you mean the two holes for screws that fasten the plate in? If so, you just drilled them larger?
 
Thanks. I ordered the same jacks with the kind info from ictwoody.

I'll probably be able to see what you mean when I get them in this afternoon - but do you mean the two holes for screws that fasten the plate in? If so, you just drilled them larger?
It's a bit hard to describe, but I'll try: The original has a rectangular cutout for the speaker terminals (which are mounted on a phenolic plate), and a screw hole on each side of the opening for the screws to mount the phenolic plate. I enlarged the screw holes on each side of the rectangular opening (only needed a bit). The black side of the binder set goes through this hole and the red goes through the original rectangular opening. I used a fiber washer on the red post to keep it from shorting against the case (extra safety since the unit shouldn't move once the black is tightened). There's a thread in the Marantz forum that has some photos.
 
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