My Marantz 2230 Rebuild Thread

Newbie question: Wouldn't the long component leads help to conduct the heat away from the part you are soldering? Just curious....
 
tensleep.... sorry not to side track away from the current topic but I currently have a 2230 that I will be restoring as soon as I can get all the parts together. I followed a cap list here on AK for the last 2 I restored and that list calls for much larger values on the Filter/Coupling caps, but I’d like to stick with replacements closer to the original values for capacitance on this unit. What value caps did you use? I’ve tried to find the proper diameter caps on Mouser with the original value with no luck. Would you happen to have the part numbers for the large caps that you used?

G.T.
 
Interesting! I'll do it, but for my own edification, what's the reason?

I am sure others may have reasons to do it the way you have but....

The extended lead will cause you to put more heat on the solder pad, could lift.
Also you do not want to put any force on the solder joint, which is what happens when you trim it soldered.
 
tensleep.... sorry not to side track away from the current topic but I currently have a 2230 that I will be restoring as soon as I can get all the parts together. I followed a cap list here on AK for the last 2 I restored and that list calls for much larger values on the Filter/Coupling caps, but I’d like to stick with replacements closer to the original values for capacitance on this unit. What value caps did you use? I’ve tried to find the proper diameter caps on Mouser with the original value with no luck. Would you happen to have the part numbers for the large caps that you used?

G.T.

I received these caps as a kit. You can probably purchase just the caps and the new holder that you need from the same place I did. Talk to Randy at irebuildmarantz.com
 
sorry not to side track away from the current topic but I currently have a 2230 that I will be restoring as soon as I can get all the parts together. I followed a cap list here on AK for the last 2 I restored and that list calls for much larger values on the Filter/Coupling caps, but I’d like to stick with replacements closer to the original values for capacitance on this unit. What value caps did you use? I’ve tried to find the proper diameter caps on Mouser with the original value with no luck. Would you happen to have the part numbers for the large caps that you used?

(1) Nichicon Gold Tune 4700uF/80v 35mm dia (requires a 35mm clamp) mfg part number LKG1K472MESCBK
(2) Nichicon Gold Tune 2200uF/80v 35mm dia (fits original clamps) mfg part number LKG1K222MESCBK
(1) Kemet 35mm capacitor clamp (this clamp fits the original mounting holes...plug 'n play) Mouser part number 80-PYC6041
 
I just got all of the caps off of the P300 board - had to desolder most of the connecting conductors to get to the solder side. There are a pair of ceramic caps mounted to the bottom of this board as well, along with some non-uniform solder joints. Methinks someone has been here before. Another tell is the screws were torqued down too much and one of the screw heads is slightly damaged.
 
The foil side of P150 in your picture looks typical. The tack-on capacitor is a 100uF/10v. I don't think you'll find any electrolytic caps on the foil side of P300.
 
Ok, almost done with the bottom of the receiver. I have three pictures that are a bit out of the ordinary:

C181 polarity P150 Board.jpg

On the P150 board, polarity isn't silkscreened on the board for capacitor C181. Negative goes to the outside of the board.


caps foil side P500 board.jpg

These devices are on the foil side of the P500 board - are they ceramic caps, or something else?



resistor on power filter cap.jpg

I didn't see this resistor when I removed the big power filter cap. I have already set the voltage (perfect) and dim bulbed the receiver several time since replacing this cap. Should I be concerned about the resistor? If so, what is it's function? Voltage divider? I will have to look at the circuit, but I would appreciate your experience and thoughts. The perfectionist in me says, but the resistor back in circuit. The other cap doesn't have this resistor.
 
That is not the power supply filter, but one of the output coupling capacitors. The 2.2Ω resistor should be wired in parallel with a small coil.


Tom

2230 Filtercc (4).jpg
 
Tom, are those film capacitors across the terminals of each big cap original or is that a design add-on? If it's an add-on, what is their function? Thanks!
Steve
Those are film 'bypass' capacitors. The idea is that they negate the effect of any inductance present in the big electrolytic capacitors.

YMMV

Tom
 
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