Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by tensleep, Mar 30, 2017.
They are non polarized, they can go in either way.
LED..... Light Emitting Diode. Diode blocks DC will pass AC voltages.
Long leg positive.....https://www.westfloridacomponents.c...w-to-tell-which-lead-is-positive-or-negative/
IIRC, diodes block DC in one direction, pass in the other, half-wave rectification for AC, thereby conducting and emitting light for half a wave. Since I don't know if we are dealing with AC or DC voltage in this application, I assumed AC, since no direction was specified in the directions. I took the easy way out and asked, rather than analyze the circuit.
Legs are equivalent length, one is heavier gauge than the other. I appreciate the link and will inspect the plates when I get back home from work tomorrow for my own education.
My original question should have read are these going into an AC or a DC circuit - again, my transistor theory is a bit rusty. That's why I love AK! Great safety net.
They are in series IIRC so if no light reverse one or both.
Yes they do block when reverse biased. A reason the link was supplied before.
The stereo lamp circuit is DC. And the stereo lamps are in series, regardless of the schematic. The rest of the lamps are on an AC circuit straight off the transformer.
The LED lamp assemblies that you have will work inserted either direction on both AC and DC circuits.
So the assemblies are more complex than just a simple LED? The ones that go into the fuse type holders are obviously more complex. I am talking about all the 8V lamps that "look" like a simple LED in a base.
Also, will the old vellum adhesive on the plastic lens soften if soaked overnight in soapy water?
With a LED you need to have the current/voltage right. I have used them mot=re then a few times to replace stereo indicators.
Just need to do more then place one in. A resistor maybe a diode depending on flicker.
Never tried that. Just removed the old and used a razor blade to clean it up. Let me know how it works.
Yes, that is true, but I believe that these aren't simple LEDs supplied in this kit. I believe all of the engineering has already been done by my supplier - just getting confirmation.
The leds need to be installed correctly polarity-wise. The longer leg usually is positive. since there are 2 in series, you need to go : positive feed to / + led - / / + led - / to negative feed
And you need a resistor in series to drop the current, depending on what leds you use. A value of around 1K to start with, measure the current and then change the resistor as needed or if you find the light too bright.
The leds I use have a nominal current of 20mA.
Here's what one widely sold modern bi-pin LED lamp assembly looks like naked. You can see the resistor is hand-soldered in place and forms one leg of the lamp assembly. The complete assembly installs without any additional components needed. The manufacturer refers to these as "AC" and they are not polarity sensitive.
A picture speaks 1000 words - this is what I thought!!!
Isn't the stereo lamp feed DC ? If so, the polarity still needs to be observed...
The stereo lamp circuit is DC. However the lamps that the OP has are not polarity sensitive and can be installed in either direction. This can be tested with a nine volt battery or another DC power supply.
Here's the diode without the resistor lit up both ways.
Thought about hooking it up like that to test it. I may do this when I get a chance. I have been at work for 14 hours today, still going, or I would have finally finished this receiver.
AFAIK, IRM LEDs are bipolar and will light with either polarity. Most LEDs from the usual suppliers are polarity sensitive.
I'll finish the face tomorrow and set the voltage levels. These lights are gonna be pretty!!!!
Great documentation! I have a good working 2230 with a new light kit waiting to be installed. What are you using for your new vellum paper? Did it come with your kit?
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