My *New* AU

Thanks Lorne,
That sheds some real light on an area of controversy. People get wound up about some of the exotic Japanese home market gear and don’t realize they can’t just bring it home and plug it in. This information will help keep some of us out of trouble.

By the way, where is Sendai? I’ve been to Tokyo and Yokohama with side trips to Tochigi and Fuji City.

- Pete
 
Hi Pete,

Well, from Toghigi you were not very far away from Sendai. If you board the Shinkan-sen (Bullet Train) at Tokyo Station or Ueno and go north for about 360 Km you get to Sendai — the largest city in Northern Honshu. There are about one million people in the greater Sendai area. It is a port city on the Pacific coast side. It is also an education center and a major capital in an otherwise fairly provincial area known as Tohoku.

A number of interesting electronic and related developments have come from here — namely from Tohoku University. Decades ago, some important contributions were made to vacuum tube technology, and today, some distance to the north there is one of the world's only museums dedicated soley to the vacuum tube or SHINKUKAN. An electronics professor gave me a museum catalog packed with glass gear that looks like it was pulled from a 1930's movie set starring Boris Karloff.

Ironically, Sendai is distinctly NOT an audio city, as anyone interested in some field of electronics here is quick to confirm. It's provincial character may remain firmly intact. Cell phones and KOMPO's — compact audio composites — rule the day. I have watched audio businesses collapse in this city.

Still, some older Sansui gear comes up for sale here and there, and from time to time. It is generally expensive enough so that if you purchase, it had better be for your consumption. There is no room for a markup and resale. My AU-al707 Extra was in the JUNK section of a resale shop because it did not cycle the function switch. One of my chores in regards to this amp was replacing the servo belt with a stretched piece of condom. (see pic above) It works! My AU-307 is a model and year no one is interested in — hence $30. Sansui — especially the older models have cache here. There remain those who know what they are — even here in Sendai. I'll bet that tomorrow I could go out and return in 2 hours with 3-4 units, but it would not be in yard sale price scale.

Say, did you get to Akihabara when you were in Tokyo? Get to the right sections and you get to audio heaven!! Get to the wrong sections and you see a lot refrigerators and toasters. There are some good guides on then net.

Best regards and thanks for the inquiry.
 
Lorne,
My trip to Toghigi is pretty much a blur. It’s been about 15 years since the last time I was in Japan. I did get to Akihabara on a couple of occasions. I saw a lot of refrigerators and rice cookers but also some very interesting stuff. There was a kind of arcade with small booths each specializing in a specific type of electronic component. You would buy resistors from one booth, semiconductors from another, and wire or connectors from yet others. I did come away with an understanding of the voltage differences between the Japanese home market gear and what we saw in the US.

I read you post about the condom repair. Just what was on your mind when that idea came to you?

For what it’s worth, most of the Sansui stuff here in the US was designed to be easily switched to operate on 100 volts. Even with shipping it may be less expensive for you to buy stuff here than what you have mentioned is available locally. If there is something your looking for in particular, put an ad in the AK classifieds. Some one will have it or know where to get it.

- Pete
 
What was I thinking?

I read you post about the condom repair. Just what was on your mind when that idea came to you?

Size, friction, heat and endurance! :)

Cheers!
 
First of all, I apologize I’m writing with some delay.
I also appreciate your suggestions about language –you’re right- English is my third language, and unfortunately I never learned it at school, so you can find many spelling and grammar errors here.

Panasonic FC-line capacitors are pretty good choice, especially regarding the price point. As I wrote already, all Sansui amps are direct-coupling, so the capacitors are not in the signal path. I used FC’s in hand-selection manner (the suppliers usually won’t send less than 5 pcs of each values), simply selecting them to be as equal as possible for both channels using simple capacitometer.
If you prefer to go with some better (an unfortunately pricier) caps, then I would suggest Nichicon Muse series, either FG (Fine Gold) or highest grade, KZ. The point is, use those with smallest ESR and lowest loss. I found KZ are most popular for this purpose in Japan.
You don’t need a technician for changing the bias and DC pots on power amp PCB. My suggestion why change pots too is simple: you must dismantling power PCB to resolder the caps and this procedure includes detachment of the PCB from heat sink. Once you’re there it is good idea to do that, since you will never go again to dismantle just for the pots.
As for the measurements and adjustments of bias/DC it’s easy (I’ve done this alone, and I’m also not a tech). Here how I’m doing this:

1. Listen the amp for some 15-30 min to achieve the operating temperature. Alternatively, you may just switch it on and just leave for some 1 hour or so.

2. Disconnect the speakers, or simply switch speaker selector to “B”, and accordingly measure DC between HOT/COLD (=pos/neg speaker terminals), and HOT/GND (pos. speaker terminal to any point of the metal case) noting the voltages. Both values should be less than 3mV DC.

3. Measure the DC voltage across the emitter resistors from underneath, which are located just before output transistors.
These resistors are usually 0,22 or 0,47 Ohms, big and rectangular, white colored, and usually two in parallels for each output transistors (8 of them per channel). You’ll obtain some voltage in mV, and dividing with the resistance, you'ill obtain the bias current.
Hint: one bias pot controls one pair of transistor, so you can measure only twice per channel (for example transistor 1 and 3 or 2 and 4). Ignore the polarity of the voltage, use absolute values only.

4. Mount the pots in “neutral” or “half-way” position, using ohmmeter.
Use some good tin containig silver.

Assuming everything is done correctly (good soldering, no shorts etc), after switching on the amp for the first time, you may have only one problem: the protector may flash indicating the amp is in protector mode. This is due to its activation if the DC is beyond his limit, and this is normal since the new pots for DC are not in the ideal position, and you will not have reading on the speaker terminals, since the speaker relay is open.
In this case just connect the voltmeter between the two various emitter resistors of both transistor pairs of each channel and roughly adjust the DC to some 50mV.

But, as you state, you may ask some tech just for adjustments.
I will describe my experience just to be complete…

5. First adjust the bias. Idle current should be around 60-80mA, but you can go higher if you want, since the heat sinks are same for 707 and flagship 907 model, but 907 has double the output transistors of your 707 (8 per channel), so the main limitation factor for higher biasing (cooling) is not an objective here.

If you want an excellent article with lot of hints and tips for biasing, please visit: http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/bias_e.html

When you’ll complete the procedure, carefully adjust the DC on the speaker terminals as described. With 25 turn-sealed pots, it can be adjusted as low as 0,1mV, but it is not necessary to try to adjust less than 3-5mV, even up to 10mV is acceptable.
6. Finally, the amp may sound harsh on the beginning, but it’s normal since all the caps are new, and need some time to run-in.
Best regards from Croatia,
 
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THANKS!

Thanks very much Erden for taking the effort to describe bias adjustment. I am going to take what you have written and see if I can apply it to my AU-307 before I think of doing it on my AU-al707Extra. (I have already done the filter caps, and I will order some FC's and/or Nichicons soon for it). It's late, and I have only managed to scan through your detailed directions, but I am archiving it in my 'must save' audio file and ponder over it later.

Best regards,
 
You're welcome lorne.
I just checked my post again and noted that I made a mistake regarding DC measurement points (NEG to GND instead POS to GND) and I edited it.
BTW, I added some updates, so save this version rather.

I'm very curious how your amp will sounds after reparation...
 
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