My new Technics SL-1310MkII and the famous cueing problem

Years ago I had a very seized arm on a pivot of the 1600 (Mk1). Normally, a little oil a little pressure loosens the arm up. This one wasn't having any of it. Well, I thought I would hit the pivot with a heat gun at low heat. I watched the whole arm piece melt in front of my eyes. I don't use heat guns anymore.

Once bitten, twice shy. Thnx for sharing that embarrassing moment and sparing us a costly lesson. I suppose I could make up a nice listing of my own sometime.
 
Has anyone tried this printed part yet?
My SL1310 MK2 needs the fix and it would sure be easier than the process of gluing the old part and hoping it works.
The printed part also doesn't appear to have the metal bushing. Anyone know?
 
Has anyone tried this printed part yet?
My SL1310 MK2 needs the fix and it would sure be easier than the process of gluing the old part and hoping it works.
The printed part also doesn't appear to have the metal bushing. Anyone know?

yes to my knowledge several people have used it with great success.
 
Has anyone tried this printed part yet?
My SL1310 MK2 needs the fix and it would sure be easier than the process of gluing the old part and hoping it works.
The printed part also doesn't appear to have the metal bushing. Anyone know?

My understanding is the printed part is just the "plastic" piece. There are two variants since there are two different bushings that were used of slightly different outer diameters. One was knurled and the other was a smooth ring with a single groove around the outer surface at the center. The metal bushing is removed by removing a "c" ring type keeper.
 
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I just removed my broken part and was looking to confirm the one I need to order

View attachment 759601 View attachment 759602

Most probably the one with the smooth ring with a single groove. Why, because these have mostly the black parts on them and I think I see a single groove in the broken part on that picture of yours. But the best way to check is to look at the ring itself from which you removed the broken part, not the plastic piece. It is smooth or knurled.
 
I have just finished the repair of the cueing arm lift, using the Shapeways 3D printed part, on my TT.

I owe a big thank you to all that posted tips and a HUGE THANK YOU to SaSi for its detailed description and photos.

My contribution to the forum, a recommendation: the replacement of the 40years old electrolytic capacitors on the main board.

In my TT’s PCB, some capacitors showed signs of leakage, so I changed them all (there were around 20 of them). It is an easy fix, it prevents from damage the –now non replaceable- ICs and platter motor. Above all, it attains better speed stability. New electrolytic capacitors are for sure smaller, so replacement is very easy. All values are readily available and at a very low cost.

IMHO, after all the trouble we all took to replace this broken plastic gear –with no effect on reproduced sound, it is highly advised to make the electrolytic capacitors update, with some possible effect on sound reproduced and TT longevity.
 
I wanted to check what part to order and decided to do a quick wire fix while waiting for the part to arrive.
Problem is that there is not much space and the flag clip touches the wire, anyways i managed to get it working.
However i encountered some problems:

1 - damping: i used thick grease on the shaft but when using manually there is still no damping.
2 - positioning of the mecanics when mounting the arm: my unit was very battered and i had to clean and lubricate the automatic mechanics. While doing so i turned and moved pieces around to unstuck and lube them. Silly me i did not take a picture on how everthing is positioned. Now the arm doesnt move towards the record, some alignment wasnt ok when putting the arm back.
3 - disc size selector and repeat selector. Same here, i had to lubricate the gears and did not take a picture on how they were positioned. I see 2 arroww on the mounting plate and only one gear has one. My guess is i have to align the arrows, but i only see one arrow...

Thank you guys.
 
I just received a 1310MkII in perfect cosmetic condition with the only problem being the cueing failure.

Hi SaSi, it's been quite a long time since you did the repair on these tables, how are they holding up? Any failures? I followed your steps and repaired one this week and works just fine! Thanks for the pics, instruct and idea!
 
Hi all,
I only fixed the cueing mechanism on one deck. It has been working fine since then, although the TT is not used very often. I purchased a 3D printed part from shapeways to fix this "better" but still waiting for it to fail.

Went back to post 1 to check the date and realized it's 9 years old. I still have the memories of the disassembly process and the huge mistake I did with super glue back then.

I also noticed that the disassembly instructions blog page I am refering to in post #15 no longer exists. I edited that post and also make a note here that I can send a pdf file with the instructions to anyone needing them. It's 4,5MB long and can't upload it here.
Edit: Scratch that. With a little bit of "creative destruction" I was able to convert to a pdf with resampled images (for the worse) and size went down to 1MB, just enough to fit.
 

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Hi all,
I only fixed the cueing mechanism on one deck. It has been working fine since then, although the TT is not used very often. I purchased a 3D printed part from shapeways to fix this "better" but still waiting for it to fail.

Went back to post 1 to check the date and realized it's 9 years old. I still have the memories of the disassembly process and the huge mistake I did with super glue back then.

I also noticed that the disassembly instructions blog page I am refering to in post #15 no longer exists. I edited that post and also make a note here that I can send a pdf file with the instructions to anyone needing them. It's 4,5MB long and can't upload it here.
Edit: Scratch that. With a little bit of "creative destruction" I was able to convert to a pdf with resampled images (for the worse) and size went down to 1MB, just enough to fit.

Thank you very much for a very thorough up date ! ! ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
 
First of all SaSi thanks so much for your time and efforts.
It would seem my SL-1310mk2 has been taken apart in the past as well. I have been following this procedure and found a small problem it comes early on in reassembly the part you refer to as flag clip should be covered by the metal door with the copper leaf riding against the cueing assembly. The metal plate needs to be turned 180 degrees so the bottom corner would cover the flag clip. My first picture. It is important the long edge of flag clip is against the edge of repaired or replaced part so it helps with return action. Last but not least the third picture shows a piece of solder pointing into the muting relay it is important that the clip is inside relay so muting switch is engaged and disengaged.
cover%20install%20proper.jpg

Thanks everyone for your efforts
 

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First of all SaSi thanks so much for your time and efforts.
It would seem my SL-1310mk2 has been taken apart in the past as well. I have been following this procedure and found a small problem it comes early on in reassembly the part you refer to as flag clip should be covered by the metal door with the copper leaf riding against the cueing assembly. The metal plate needs to be turned 180 degrees so the bottom corner would cover the flag clip. My first picture. It is important the long edge of flag clip is against the edge of repaired or replaced part so it helps with return action. Last but not least the third picture shows a piece of solder pointing into the muting relay it is important that the clip is inside relay so muting switch is engaged and disengaged.
cover%20install%20proper.jpg

Thanks everyone for your efforts

Welcome to the AK community!
 
Hello, not sure if anyone is still monitoring this thread. I just put in the part from shapeways (mine was brass..SL-1500MK2)..I am having issues with no damping. I tried putting some 500,000 wt silicone oil on the shaft that holds the C-clip and put it back together. It seems like there is very little travel up when raising the cue lever and it just doesn't come down(with cartridge installed). I then removed the silicone oil and put some TT oil on the shaft and that didn't help either. It doesn't at all feel smooth action if I manually assist the shaft travel. Perhaps I put too much silicone oil on the shaft? I'm not really sure what to try next. Any thoughts, hints or tips would be appreciated. TIA
 
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