My try at a Really Nice Rebuild Marantz 2245 2270

[iamthejeff]

This is really inspiring. I am working up the nerve to tackle a recap on my 2230 (my first major restoration project). I'd like to replace any other recommended components while I am in there as well.

So much research to do, though

 

[patfont]

Just shoot me a PM or reply in my 2230 thread, and I can help you out.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=550670

This is really inspiring. I am working up the nerve to tackle a recap on my 2230 (my first major restoration project). I'd like to replace any other recommended components while I am in there as well.

So much research to do, though

 

[sherod]

Pat,
Thanks for your advice. I am about 85% finished with my 2270. It is sounding very clean and musical at this point. I was curious, though. On the P400 preamp board, the original caps at C407 and C408 were little white Elna lytics, 3.3uf, 50V. I see you enended up with Wima caps there. Did you ever try some Silmic II's there? I have on order some polyprops to try in those locations, but in the meantime I put in some Silmic II caps and it sounds very nice, much better right off the bat compared to the original caps. In the meantime, before I sub in the polys once they arrive, I'll have a general idea how the receiver sounds with the Silmic II in those locations.
My last board will be the power amp boards. I've splurged a little and ordered two Audiocap PPT Thetas for C751 and the other three poly cap locations on the board. I'm curious what type and brand are the original caps from the factory.

 

[patfont]

I have used the RT's they are very simular to the PPT and you will like it. There is plenty of room there to work with and the leads are very easy to form and bend where you want.

On P400 it was more importiant to put the best cap (Wima MKS4)( 1uf) in that position as it was one or the other both would not fit and I did not want to install a cap on the back of the board.

Here is a pic:

Pat,
Thanks for your advice. I am about 85% finished with my 2270. It is sounding very clean and musical at this point. I was curious, though. On the P400 preamp board, the original caps at C407 and C408 were little white Elna lytics, 3.3uf, 50V. I see you enended up with Wima caps there. Did you ever try some Silmic II's there? I have on order some polyprops to try in those locations, but in the meantime I put in some Silmic II caps and it sounds very nice, much better right off the bat compared to the original caps. In the meantime, before I sub in the polys once they arrive, I'll have a general idea how the receiver sounds with the Silmic II in those locations.
My last board will be the power amp boards. I've splurged a little and ordered two Audiocap PPT Thetas for C751 and the other three poly cap locations on the board. I'm curious what type and brand are the original caps from the factory.

 

[sherod]

Is this pic the current version in your 2245? I see there have been some changes. What brand resistor( green one) and why did you replace it at R401 and 402?
I just googled this AMRG resistor. The value in your pic is 3.9ohm. What wattage is it? Are the large brown caps the original ones you took out of the power amp board? Why did you go this route?

 

[patfont]

This is my most up to date P400 preamp Board that I am finally very happy with. The boards are very similar in the
1060
2230
2245
2270

The AMRG resistors are 3/4W from Parts Connexion. They are the first component the signal travels through coming into the pre amp board, they are very very sweet. (They are 390 as noted on the scat)
The large brown films are original to this 2230 board your 2270 probably has a jumper in that location.
I really like the original Marantz films and no longer replace them as I have found only a Mundorf Supreme to be a significant step up-which is too big to fit at the .22 uf input location. I am in the process of testing out the Mundorf EVO Aluminum Oil for that location as a possibility I will have to see, it is a much more compact quality film with leads that will work.

Is this pic the current version in your 2245? I see there have been some changes. What brand resistor( green one) and why did you replace it at R401 and 402?
I just googled this AMRG resistor. The value in your pic is 3.9ohm. What wattage is it? Are the large brown caps the original ones you took out of the power amp board? Why did you go this route?

 

[sherod]

I am reluctant to replace the original mylar films caps on the P750 boards even though I've already ordered the Audiocap Theta polypros to try in C751 and C765. The current sound is just so good. For the 1uf, 100v mylar at C751, they are pretty huge compared to today's mylars.
For resistors, I've read that the old Shinkoh resistors, tantalum-type, are pretty natural sounding. They have been out-of-production for about three years, but are in limited supply at Parts Connexion. I might give a couple of these a try if they have the correct value.
By the way, I went with the Mundorf m-lytics for the two main filter caps. The 10,000uf, 63v cans are small but sound far superior to the original Elna 9000uf, 55V caps that were in there from the manufacturer.
I do appreciate all your rebuild threads and E-cap shoot-outs. The Silmic II e-caps are indeed very special. I have used them in all the e-cap locations...didn't even bother trying to mix and match different manufacturers since imho, I feel the Silmic II are superior in providing a naturally musical reproduction of the music.
Saul Marantz, if he were still alive, would be proud knowing that the new e-cap technology does improve his receiver circuits for an even better Marantz sound.

 

[patfont]

I have struggled with that same though for a while, the Marantz films are very good and part of the magic. If I were doing a 2270 right now I would only replace the:

C759/C760 Silmic II 10uf 16V or 25V
C761 Silmic II 22uf 10V

The AMRG's as pictured on the board are excellent, if you wanted you could also go with the Riken Ohm, Parts Connexion has them as well as Angela Instruments.

I am reluctant to replace the original mylar films caps on the P750 boards even though I've already ordered the Audiocap Theta polypros to try in C751 and C765. The current sound is just so good. For the 1uf, 100v mylar at C751, they are pretty huge compared to today's mylars.
For resistors, I've read that the old Shinkoh resistors, tantalum-type, are pretty natural sounding. They have been out-of-production for about three years, but are in limited supply at Parts Connexion. I might give a couple of these a try if they have the correct value.
By the way, I went with the Mundorf m-lytics for the two main filter caps. The 10,000uf, 63v cans are small but sound far superior to the original Elna 9000uf, 55V caps that were in there from the manufacturer.
I do appreciate all your rebuild threads and E-cap shoot-outs. The Silmic II e-caps are indeed very special. I have used them in all the e-cap locations...didn't even bother trying to mix and match different manufacturers since imho, I feel the Silmic II are superior in providing a naturally musical reproduction of the music.
Saul Marantz, if he were still alive, would be proud knowing that the new e-cap technology does improve his receiver circuits for an even better Marantz sound.

 

[tmccullough]

This makes the idea of tearing into my 2275 for a rebuild seem easy. Then i remember that I have zero experience and would completely destroy it. One of these days....

 

[PB_Audio]

This makes the idea of tearing into my 2275 for a rebuild seem easy. Then i remember that I have zero experience and would completely destroy it. One of these days....

There are a number of very good soldering tutorials on YouTube that illustrate proper soldering technique. I recommend carefully watching several before beginning. Here's a good one...LINK:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
As in the video, practice on a cheep PC board from Radio Shack, for example, until you build confidence.
Then start with a receiver that's not too crowded inside the case, like the 2230, 2220B or the 1060 integrated, for example. Once you've comfortably completed one of these, you'll know if you're up to speed to move up in complexity to your 2275. The 2325 or larger receivers are best left to the pros, though. But, if you successfuly complete a restoration of your 2275 you're definitely on your way. Practice makes perfect...

 

[tmccullough]

There are a number of very good soldering tutorials on YouTube that illustrate proper soldering technique. I recommend carefully watching several before beginning. Here's a good one...LINK:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
As in the video, practice on a cheep PC board from Radio Shack, for example, until you build confidence.
Then start with a receiver that's not too crowded inside the case, like the 2230, 2220B or the 1060 integrated, for example. Once you've comfortably completed one of these, you'll know if you're up to speed to move up in complexity to your 2275. The 2325 or larger receivers are best left to the pros, though. But, if you successfuly complete a restoration of your 2275 you're definitely on your way. Practice makes perfect...

Haha! Again, sounds easy. That said, I am going to start with my Pioneer CS-88s... All five caps per crossover. It is probably easier than it seems. Before Attempting a receiver I reckon I should invest in a proper solder station. I will get there.

 

[sherod]

Pat,
One quick question. I am going to replace the three e-caps on my 2270 P-750 amp boards this weekend. I noticed that you replaced one small yellow tantalum cap on each board. Not having looked at a schematic or pulling the boards out yet, can you tell me what value this caps is? I am considering trying a Silmic II in that location. I can't remember what you replaced it with. I have read that a good e-cap can replace an old tantalum cap in vintage gear.

 

[patfont]

Pat,
One quick question. I am going to replace the three e-caps on my 2270 P-750 amp boards this weekend. I noticed that you replaced one small yellow tantalum cap on each board. Not having looked at a schematic or pulling the boards out yet, can you tell me what value this caps is? I am considering trying a Silmic II in that location. I can't remember what you replaced it with. I have read that a good e-cap can replace an old tantalum cap in vintage gear.

Yes that is C761 22uf 6.3V, use Silmic II 22uf 10v or 16V

 

[sherod]

Thanks, Pat. I have some extra Silmic II 22uf, 25V. I'm assuming they'll be fine if they fit on the board and don't touch the heat sinks when buttoned up.
I'm curious, why didn't you replace the caps on the tone control board behind the faceplate. Aren't there a couple e-caps there?

 

[PB_Audio]

Thanks, Pat. I have some extra Silmic II 22uf, 25V. I'm assuming they'll be fine if they fit on the board and don't touch the heat sinks when buttoned up.
I'm curious, why didn't you replace the caps on the tone control board behind the faceplate. Aren't there a couple e-caps there?

This issue has been adequately addressed in another thread, as Pat will no doubt recall.
Assume what you will; but you are best advised, as Pat has suggested,
to use the Silmic II 22uf 10v.:yes:

 

[mcsew2k]

This issue has been adequately addressed in another thread, as Pat will no doubt recall.
Assume what you will; but you are best advised, as Pat has suggested,
to use the Silmic II 22uf 10v.:yes:

I have been intensely researching my upcoming 2270 restore by reading threads like these. But, I cannot find the thread you mention. Can you post a link?

 

[mcsew2k]

I hope I didn't poison this thread; nothing since my last post over a year ago?

Anyways, I am looking for additional help with restoring a 2270. I am considering this thread to be the standard by which I am going by. Given that this thread is actually working on a 2245:

What deviations from these recommendations would apply to a 2270?

What additional work can be done on a 2270 not mentioned here?

What can be done to the tuner sections that are worthwhile for sound and reliability? (I do listen to FM frequently.)

I don't want to mix other random information in other threads and end up with a doorstop.:nono:

 

[catrafter]

I hope I didn't poison this thread; nothing since my last post over a year ago?

Anyways, I am looking for additional help with restoring a 2270. I am considering this thread to be the standard by which I am going by. Given that this thread is actually working on a 2245:

What deviations from these recommendations would apply to a 2270?

What additional work can be done on a 2270 not mentioned here?

What can be done to the tuner sections that are worthwhile for sound and reliability? (I do listen to FM frequently.)

I don't want to mix other random information in other threads and end up with a doorstop.:nono:

I like to install film caps in place of electrolytic types in signal path of the tone-preamp. Since you enjoy FM, you can also replace the electrolytic coupling caps after the low pass filter with film types.

Panasonic Stacked film and/or WIMA MKS2 are my go-to film types.
YMMV

Tom

 

[mcsew2k]

Tom,
On the FM MPX board it looks like you installed the WIMA MKS2s at C321, C322, C331, and C332; then the Panasonic Stacked films at C333 and C334.
Are they matching values that were the electrolytics?
Did you have to make any adjustments to the trimmer (R365); is that for volume balance?

Also, what replacements did you use for the rest on that board?

Thanks,
David

Since you enjoy FM, you can also replace the electrolytic coupling caps after the low pass filter with film types.

Panasonic Stacked film and/or WIMA MKS2 are my go-to film types.
YMMV

Tom

 

[mcsew2k]

Pat,

What is it that you have at C407 and C408 (upper left and right corners)?

Are they factory films (big orange caps) bypassed by the Wimas; what sizes did you use? My factory ones there are little white electrolytics.

Also, why the bi-polar at C403 and C404; mine are just polar?

Thanks,
David