NAD 2600, 2600A, 2700 Amps: What are the differences?

Hi All,

Sorry if this has already been discussed Ad nauseam, but can anyone give me a quick run down on the differences between the NAD 2600, 2600A, and 2700? I know they are essentially the same models power wise but I just wanted to get a feeling for why the updates to units and if the updates made any significant changes performance wise or longevity wise, other than to sell more units by rebranding.

I am thinking of upgrading from my NAD 2400 but just curious. My online searches have not turned up much.

Thanks!
 
Hi All,

Sorry if this has already been discussed Ad nauseam, but can anyone give me a quick run down on the differences between the NAD 2600, 2600A, and 2700? I know they are essentially the same models power wise but I just wanted to get a feeling for why the updates to units and if the updates made any significant changes performance wise or longevity wise, other than to sell more units by rebranding.

I am thinking of upgrading from my NAD 2400 but just curious. My online searches have not turned up much.

Thanks!

Found this about the 2600 and 2600a. http://db.audioasylum.com/mhtml/m.h...uts.academia.edu/julianassangeejulianassangee.

They're essentially the same. The 2700 is slightly newer. I have the 2400. It was class C rated by Stereophile.
 
I suppose it depends on who you ask. At this stage, if it is still working after 25 years, you should be ok with either Japanese produced or Taiwanese produced. You should be prepared for repairs now due to the age of the products.
 
I suppose it depends on who you ask. At this stage, if it is still working after 25 years, you should be ok with either Japanese produced or Taiwanese produced. You should be prepared for repairs now due to the age of the products.

Thanks! I guess my system is a mix of Taiwan and Japan made NADs (My 6100 says Made in China). I have been looking at a some 2600s and 2700s on ebay. One of the 2700s is in excellent condition and has been recently gone over in a shop. However, it is way on the high side for my price point ($360). Another 2700 is at $275 but has obviously been used in all sorts of ways. The couple of 2600A are much less ($150 starting price) but have not been checked by the repair shop. I have a NAD THX 2400 which is fine though it has loose RCA outs and is missing the green cap on the power switch. Thought it might be nice to swap up though perhaps this may be over kill on my part.
 
2600A and 2700 are identical, save for the THX certification for the 2700.
I would get the 2 2600A's myself. Bridge them and you'll have a KA system. I had the 2700 and it's one of those amps I regretted selling. Those Nads have a ton of head room, built like tanks, and sound very, very good.
 
Hmmm. Well, was going to take plunge on the 2700 when the current owner told me he blew something out on the unit and was not working any longer, and ending the sale early. Strange but better him than me doing that. No other decent looking units on ebay at the moment. Might just sit tight with my trusty 2400 for a while longer.
 
Well, I did it. I got a NAD 2700. It seems in fine condition. Can definitely crank it with, and even with my speakers, it is loud without distortion (the NAD 2400 would only go so far before distorting). However, a couple of small differences in the outside of these models (the 2400 is Made in Japan, late 80's, the 2700 made in Taiwan, early to mid 90's):

1) The 2700 speaker hookups seem cheaper and not as precise as the NAD 2400 hookups.

2) The left/right input level controls on the 2700 do not have a "middle stop" in the rotation. They just go smoothly from "-" to "+" without a "bump to signify middle or "0".

3) The 2700 grey finish on the top and sides of the unit is more textured (rougher) in feel to the 2400, which is smoother in texture.

4) Besides the slight differences in the THX Graphic on the front of the unit from the 2400, the 2700 does not say "Power Envelope" on front like the 2400 and 2600A.

Otherwise, the unit is clean, came with it's original box and all paperwork, so bonus. Selling my 2400 on ebay at the moment. Sad to see it go, but I need to recoup some of the cost of the upgrade to the 2700 and honestly do not have the space to store it or set up another system (that honor will eventually go to my old 3020).

Thanks all for your input!
 
As I recall from my days of selling them, the A were the 2600 that worked (first series was an ugly experience)

Most NADs I recall had troubled launches before settling down.
 
2) The left/right input level controls on the 2700 do not have a "middle stop" in the rotation. They just go smoothly from "-" to "+" without a "bump to signify middle or "0".

Ah-ha! The User Manual comes to the rescue: Settings for input levels on the 2700 (and 2600A) are different: The Levels should be turned to maximum during normal operation. How funny. I wonder why the difference between the 2400 and the 2600A/2700?
 
Nad peforms well, but usually have many problem if heavier, but if for audiophile, they don't, as they don't use better parts.

sorry for my bad grammar.
 
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