Need an auto mechanic

Grumpy,
QDM 1 driver operates the boost control solenoid, evap purge control solenoid and the torque convertor clutch solenoid pull in coils. Check the fuse for the cruise control in the relay center under the hood first. It will be a 15 amp fuse.
QDM 4 operates the a/c clutch relay pull in coil, low speed and high speed cooling fan relay coils. Check the the 10 amp cooling fan/tcc fuse in the fuse block.Most likely it is this one, seeing as there is also a qdm4 fault also.
QDM 1 fault will turn on the check engine light. QDM 4 fault will not turn it on.
This should get you started. I will check back after work tonight.
Ron
 
Will check those out today. Thanks !
 
Oh one more question. Where on this car will the the computer be. I wanted to clean the connectors since I'm sorta anal about that stuff.
 
grumpy said:
Oh one more question. Where on this car will the the computer be. I wanted to clean the connectors since I'm sorta anal about that stuff.
Should be behind right front kick panel: ie to the right of where the front seat passengers feet would be. There are 3 connectors on it, red, white and blue :thmbsp:
Be SURE ign off before disconnecting. Never seen any corroded yet, but I have not seen everything. About the only way they could corrode is if the windshield was leaking. No evidence of that I hope.
How about any DTC's for me? Get them before disconecting the PCM. On the Snap on scanner there should be a section that says some thing like " Read DTC" or " Get DTC", something like that. If there is a fault they should lead us right to it.
Ron
 
Rontech1 said:
DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code. Your Snap on reader should give you them.

It will say something like PO xxxx purge valve solonoid sigal too low or something like that.

I don't use the Snap On so I have to guess as to what it will say. We have the GM TechII and the Volvo VIDA/Vadis machine.

Just got off the phone to my shop foreman about this. I will get the wiring diagram and find out what is driven by the QDM1 and 4 circuit. He did not know right off hand what all is on those QDM's either.

Hang on to the Snap on tester. We will need that to command things on and off while finding the QDM problem.

The door lock problem should be a seperate issue. If the fuse blew as soon as you installed it, that would be a dead short on the supply side of the door lock/courtesy circuit. The circuit feeds bat+ to the door lock switch's, which in turn the switch's feed reversing DC motor's in each door to operate the door locks.

Without the wiring diagram in front of me, I would check and see if there is a penny or something like that in one of the cig lighter's first. I know it sounds odd, but most of the time when I have to find a short in that circuit that is what I find. Kid's will put anything in anyplace in a vehicle. Not saying your kid did it but maybe previous owner. Sometimes spare change is thrown on the console and falls down into the lighter socket. I will also get the diagram for that circuit.

I had to replace a 900.00 cd deck in a 2004 Volvo xc90 because the owners kid had put almost 23 pennies in the cd drive slot :lmao:

You can do this my friend, I have complete confidence in you. It will take some work but we will get it done. :thmbsp:

And it will be a hell of a lot cheaper than shop labor rate. I would guess the average in your area is 90.00/hour. Plus you get to learn how it works.

Late model vehicles are becoming almost unbelievably complex. An example of that would be: Most premium foriegn cars such as Volvo, MB, BMW, etc, use what is called a CANBUS (Controller Area Network BUS by Volvo) network where each of the modules in the vehicle are networked together using a high speed and low speed circuit.

A CEM ( Central Electronic Module) is the traffic cop for the up to 24 different modules on the CANBUS. GM and the domestics are just now going to it. Picture your server there at AK and the headaches it can give you. Now put all that in a rolling, vibrating, 20 below zero to 160 above environment. Software runs it all.

Fortunatly your Pontiac is very early in this design. Not nearly as complicated, but still quite sophisticated in how it works over the older points and carb units. Remember the feedback carbs? YIKES!!!

However, if you stop and think about it, it is quite amazing that these late model vehicle's, when performing correctly will start and run the same way if it is 20 below or 110 in the shade, put out 100 hp per liter of displacement, and still meet ULEV emmision levels.

Maybe I will do the theory thread in Off Topic, or wherever it would be most appropiate. It will be long though.
Ron

Ahh now I can read it too. . . A lot of good information here. . . good common sense. . .
 
Ran out to buy 20 bucks worth of them damn mini fuses. Also got a new fuel pump relay and a new flasher blinker. Raining now so will change them tomorrow and see what codes she throws.
 
Good for you about the fuses, but be careful about buying non-returnable parts like relays. They are easily tested and most of them have the wiring diagram printed on them. Pull one out and look at the side of it and see if it is not embossed in it.
As for tools to use for diag on electrical/electronic circuits, most of you likely have one of them now, a good high impedence digital volt/ohm meter. Use this on all control ( ex relay coils. ) circuits and sensor ( ex temp sender, crank/cam sensor) circuits.
The other tool for electrical diag to have is a good 12 volt test light. Not the kind they have at the checkout counter at the hardware store. Sears sells a good one. Of course Snap on Matco and mac tools sell good ones, and they would love to sell you one. Expect to spend about 25.00 + for it. This will be used for circuits that have a consumer or load on it. Ex: exterior lighting, cooling fans, etc. The reason you would use a test light instead of a Volt meter is , for example,a multi strand wire with, say, 12 strands in it is powering a headlight, but 10 of those strands are broken. If you check it with a volt meter it will tell you there is bat+ ( nom 13.2) on it. Must be a bad bulb huh if the ground is good. Nope not enough wire there for the amp flow needed to operate it. If you check it with a test light, that will load the circuit. If the test light lites, now you are reasonably sure that the wiring is ok.
On the other hand if you use a test light to test a pull in coil circuit on a relay, it will ground the coil and pull in the relay. Or if you test a temp sensor circuit with it it will skew the results. Most sensor circuits use 5 volt ref voltage and read the return voltage at the ecm/pcm.
Well, let me know what you find out tomorrow and we will go from there.
Ron
 
Dont be to eager to clean connectors, A lot of manufacturers use a type of grease in the connector housing to keep corrosion out. Also alot of signal connectors are so dense that you really cant clean them up.
 
I am out of patience. Between my kid not knowing his ass from a hole in the ground with this scanner and these freaking intermittent electrical problems I give up. No Mas !
 
grumpy said:
I am out of patience. Between my kid not knowing his ass from a hole in the ground with this scanner and these freaking intermittent electrical problems I give up. No Mas !
Whoa, Easy there big guy. :D

That MTG2500 can be very daunting to use. I looked it up on Snap On's sight and it is a very powerful tool. And like anything else that sophisticated, the wealth of info it can give is there, but may be somewhat difficult to get to on the tool because of it. First will the car still start and run at all? If it does and you can drive it, the nearest Autozone will pul DTC's for you no charge.
And if your son is new to it, it may take some time or maybe even dad to look at the manual.
Remember the story of the old bull and the young bull :thmbsp:
And these intermittant elec problems. What do you mean? If you are talking about the power door locks let's forget about those for awhile and concentrate on the driveability problems.
And Matt is correct about the dielectric grease in the connectors at the pcm.
And Grumpy, you have a PM from me.
Ron
 
HOT FREAKING DAMN. ITS ALIVE !!!!


Ain't perfect but Its running and a couple of the problems are solved. A great big thank you goes out to Ron. He was of great help and encouragement. Also I lucked out and dragged a Club Bonneville member over to my place who was up to the task and we both spent the last 8 hours working on it. And finally my boob of a kid Matt.

A long way to go but at least a couple of hurdles are out of the way.

Grumpy
 
grumpy said:
HOT FREAKING DAMN. ITS ALIVE !!!!


Also I lucked out and dragged a Club Bonneville member over to my place who was up to the task and we both spent the last 8 hours working on it.

Grumpy


Shh Grumpy don't broadcast that. It's called forcible confinement. :yes:


Mike
 
Good deal, G. Matt's just learning. I can't tell you how much stuff I broke, bent, cracked or burned up when I was a kid learning basic auto repair. :D

Murray
 
I reached my limits with the Bonneville and sold it the other day. Can you say money pit ?

Every time I turned around it needed another sensor that was a BITCH to get to or cost a left nut. I was putting in 8 hour days on this thing like a full time job.

Got what i paid for it and then some. Alls well that ends well...
 
Hey Ron,I took my car to another mechanic,they couldn't solve the prob either.

Funny thing when it is very hot in the AM she'll start first crank,on a cool morning it takes a couple of cranks.

Someone suggested,decarbonizing but that would be an expensive deal,having to take apart each cyl.

Regards

Alan who hates Kia
 
Dripping water down the carb while the engine runs will help decarbonize the cylinders, the steam loosens the carbon and it goes out the exhaust.
 
opt80 said:
Hey Ron,I took my car to another mechanic,they couldn't solve the prob either.

Funny thing when it is very hot in the AM she'll start first crank,on a cool morning it takes a couple of cranks.

Someone suggested,decarbonizing but that would be an expensive deal,having to take apart each cyl.

Regards

Alan who hates Kia
If nobody has taken apart the Idle Speed Control motor (ISC) and cleaned it that could well be your problem. They are to fully open cold and give you your "cold fast idle". After 70-80,000(120k?) they get varnished up and stick giving you the symptoms you describe. Less scrupulous types will sell a new one. Just a thought.

Carl
 
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