Need car buying help or advice

We've been thinking of trading in my wife's 2001 Honda CRV to get a minivan, we've put 30,000 trouble free miles on it. I would recommend one to anybody!
 
If it aint broke dont fix it.
 
Drive it for another year, then it'll be paid for. It's not going to depreciate much especially if you don't put many more miles on it.

That's some sound advice. Plus if you really like the Jeep GC, I would wait a bit for the new '05s to become more common on the roads. That will make the prices drop for the '99-'04 versions. Here are a few tips for when you go shopping...

1) Avoid used car dealers! A good number of people use trade-ins or auctions to unload junkers they'd be afraid to sell to anyone who'd return to their house with a brick! Guess where used dealers get most of their cars?? This advice includes the big-box used car stores that distract you with a childeren's play area and other BS. They tried to re-invent the car market here in Detroit, and failed within a year, because too many people know the business. I even amused myself once by stopping in their HUGE showroom and seeing how many cars I could spot with with fresh re-paints (all!) Lots of Rental cars get unloaded here, and I'm sure you've heard the phrase "Drive it like a rental!"

2) When calling a private party ad, ALWAYS say "Hi, I'm calling about the vehicle you're selling." NEVER "I'm calling about the 1999 Grand Cherokee you're selling. If you force them to reply "Which vehicle?" then you know you're dealing with somebody who's flipping cars... Not always a bad thing as I used to do it myself, but let's you know to sharpen your radar that much more.

3) Learn how to spot collision repairs by looking at panel fit, tape lines from a re-paint, etc. Not always a danger sign, as most new cars need paint after a 5 MPH parking lot mishap, but it's a good place to find a bargaining chip.

4) Be suspicious of any seller who shows you a car with a warm engine. Lots of noises and trouble disappear when a car warms-up. Make sure you test fluids and such BEFORE anyone starts the engine (except fluid level in trans which must be tested when the car is running).

5) Long test-drives up to highway speeds

6) Remember that cheap new cars bring CHEAP resale value. How much is that $15,000 new car worth in two years? $7,000 if you're lucky. Most "real" cars won't lose 50% of value in two years.

7) Try you're best to avoid finacing a used car. The rates suck, and the only thing you should ever buy-on-time is a house. I know this might be unrealistic, but keep it in mind as a goal.

8) Don't pay money for image. No one will love you more if you drive a Buick rather than a Mercedes, and Buicks are more reliable! People like me will be more willing to let you merge anyways, and not be tempted to park really close to your image-mobile with their $1000 hoopite just to F-with you.

Of course this advice comes from somebody who enjoys scaring punk kids who "think" they just cut-off an old man driving a Chrysler New Yorker, when in fact it's a young man, with a bad attitude driving a Chrysler New Yorker with dark windows, lol. Your mileage may vary! :naughty:
 
All very good advice and many of you hit on points I have swimming in my head, on retrospect it's good I couldn't get that Grand Cherokee I might have pulled the trigger on it with the smell of leather still fresh in my nose and regretted it. They made a mistake giving me two days to think on this since I am kind of a compulsive guy I might have done a compulsive buy but now that I have time to reflect................. I am having serious doubts about doing it. Paying off my Jeep and having no car payment after 3 - 1/2 years sounds awfully sweet. Couple that with paying off my big screen HDTV this Feb. after two years of payments and I would be literally swimming in dough.

I have wanted a new or practically new car since I was old enough to drive and have driven a lot $100 cars in my life so the compulsion is very strong in me especially if I sit in one and drive it :(

I really think that unless they make me an offer I can't refuse on a truck or SUV I really love, low payments and super nice low mileage vehicle, and from what I have seen and heard so far it ain't going to happen, that I will be walking away with no regrets. Thanks for all the advice.

Wish me the stength to resist temptation and to fight compulsion with cold hard logic and common sense ;)
 
Well Thor, it's your money, but I'd drive your current ride.

Into the ground, no kidding!

My dad always told me a car is an expense, not an investment, so I view a car as transportation, nothing else.
Starts, stops, good heater, good tunes, that's all I need. My current ride is a 1990 Cutalss Ciera Cruiser w/179,000 miles on it I paid $500 last year. Runs great!
If you want to buy a house, I really suggest you pay off your current ride and drive it until it dies. If you only put 17,000 miles on it in 2 1/2 years, I'm astounded. At that rate it'll be 10+ years before it breaks 200K. I'd keep it, build up a downpayment in a year or so and after it's paid off, you can throw the payment into the mortgage calculation. Plus after you get a house, you can itemize and write off your mortgage interst, property taxes, etc, which actually throws money back to you.

I realize that this is probably heresy for someone who lives in the Detroit area, but I get more excited about my gear than what I drive to work :thmbsp:
 
I'm gald you made a good choise Thor...

I almost jumped on a 98 GC last summer...and I'm glad I didnt....$170/mo payment...and another $100/mo just for insurence...those buggers are EXPENSIVE!!!!!

The current vehicles I have now...the 93' Full size Dodge Van..and the 92' Tempo ....I have now are older but work great...and are both paid for...I rolled the payments into the equity loan on my rental house...@4.8%...so the tennants pay for it!!......But I havent had a car payment in about 3-4 years now...and it shure feels good.....
 
I personally have seen good and bad used car dealers. Bought my 78 Grand Marquis from a reputable local dealer...they were honest about its problems, let me thoroughly check and test drive it...I gave them the $940 and they took care of the temp tags, title paperwork, tax and all that complicated stuff. If you buy from a private party make sure you are well versed in the DMV/DOT paperwork as many times the seller is not.
 
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Andyman said:
Plus after you get a house, you can itemize and write off your mortgage interst, property taxes, etc, which actually throws money back to you.
Heard this many times before we bought our house. We ended up with an inexpensive enough house (about $80K), with a low enough interest rate, on a joint tax return, that that never happened. The standard deduction goes up each year, and has always been bigger than anything we could itemize.

The cost of living is pretty low here; just wanted to note that this "trueism" doesn't apply to everyone -- Foe
 
I remember when I was looking at another car and was around 18. I talked to my dad about this car trying to convince him that since it would be better on gas, I should buy it. The words stick in my head to this day. "Figure out what the difference is in fuel based on a year of driving and take that out of the cost of the monthly payments,now, see all of that extra money? That is what you will either have to use as you want or you can give it to the bank. Your choice son.

I didn't get the car, spent all of the money on beer instead, but I still remember the logic and use it today.
 
Great idea to keep it Thor. They really don't get any better than the Cherokee. Sure it makes weird rattles and clunks occasionally, but they keep on going. I understand wanting new and cooler, I used to get in trouble most every year. Every spring I would look for a new rig. However, I am getting near to paying off both rigs this year and enjoy having money in my pocket more than I enjoy getting that new car "high" for a few months....... till the payments start usually.
My rigs are always used, and have always been reliable. I eventually realized that if I wanted a project rig, it would most likely be in the shape of the rigs I already have....... I'll just throw money at ones I already have.... performance engine, lift, winch......... things like that. Once they are paid for, the sky is the limit, cause it is mine. Besides the fact that I use my rigs to work with. A new 35,000 dollar truck would kill me the first time one of my guys put a big ass dig in the side loading up gear. I know a few guys who spend that kind of money....... we're talking 600.00 a month payment type rigs.... that would make it awfully hard to enjoy.
 
I would also like to advocate having a couple of more inexpensive vehicles rather than one expensive one. If the fancy vehicle is in the shop for a week and you don't have a back-up....it's very difficult. It is very comforting to know that even if one vehicle got a nail in the tire the night before or has a battery cable problem or something unexpected when you go to start it in the morning, all you have to do is jump in the other car and you're off to work with no trouble.
 
For the $16,000 you get a new car. There are quite a few new cars in that price range.

It may not be a Jeep w/ leather seats, but will have a new car warranty, and ZERO miles. Will last far beyond the 3 to 5 year payment plan.

Actually the best buy in cars is one about 2 or 3 years old. Usually pay about 2/3 to 1/2 the new car cost, and get one with 25,000 to 35,000 miles.

The largest protion of the depreciation is used up, and there are many with real low miles. And can get them in the $16,000 range (or less) that you are talking.

You can buy a used car from a dealer, but you need to know how to do it.

All car dealers, banks and loan companies all use the same NADA book for values. The dealer never actually pays more than "trade in" for a car.
He tries to sell the car for "retail" to make a buck. In your case he's making a killing, trying to sell over the retail price. But don't EVER get caught up the "hype" and pay more than NADA book value.

It always makes me laugh when someone says the dealer gave me retail for my trade in.

The one your dealing with is giving you the shaft big time. No way you should pay more than the NADA retail for any car.

Don't finance cars at a dealer, it has higher intrest rates, plus will add on other stuff you don't need. Go to your bank / credit union.

First get all the NADA values for the vehical you want, THEN go to the dealer.
Best time of year is Jan or Feb, because cars aren't selling well, and the dealer needs the cash flow, so will make better deals.

I've done the walk out the door deal, and it does work. (It embarrases the wife and she hates it, but is amazed at what I do and save thousands of $$$)

I bought a mini 3 year old mini van a few years ago. The sales person I was working with said the sales manager would never go for the deal I proposed.

We went back and forth with offers-counter offers, and the last time she said the deal couldn't work, I ask the sales girl to tell him we just are too far apart, I was ready to close the deal right now, but I'll have to buy my mini van somewhere else.

So when she was walking back from the sales managers office, I got up to leave, slowly leaving, looking at new cars in the show room, ... well she came over and say's "I can't believe it, but he said OK on the deal, if you'll sign the papers now. I didn't think he ever do that kind of deal."

I ended up getting the van for about $2,000 under retail. (close to wholesale book price. In this case I had cash from selling our old van myself (got a little over retail for it), and used savings for the balance. No payments

The dealer thinks I'm an a-hole, but I simply beat him at his own game. Or at least brought the game to an equal playing level. ..... And it is a game.

Thor, it will take time, but get the current car paid for, and put together what ever savings you can, Then educate yourself on NADA values, and go shopping.
Have your financing in place, be prepared to write a check on the spot, and refuse to get screwed. (by the dealer)
 
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