Need help finding a good amp/preamp for my RS 4/b's

I guess I meant it wasn't shaking my house. But, overall the bass is to my liking; very tight. Also, I read that the new surrounds need some time to break in.

I made sure I wired the speakers how they were when I took them apart. With the neg- of the top feeding the Pos+ of the bottom speaker. But I'll be honest, I don't know if that is considered 'in phase' or 'in series'. Been a few years since my electronics class.

My RS-IIIa's had the dual woofers wired incorrectly (opposite phase), resulting to very lackluster bass.

You want to connect them in-series and in-phase, i.e. positive wire --- [ minus tap Woofer #1 positive tap ] --- wire --- [ minus tap Woofer #2 positive tap ] --- negative wire
 
I have RS4's and you wire the woofers in series and phase. The spade connectors on these particular drivers are the same size making incorrect wiring possible. Positive incoming wire to the top woofers positive terminal(marked with red line on terminal) the connecting wire comes out of the top driver negative terminal which is then connected to the positive terminal of the lower woofer, the negative terminal on the lower woofer returns to the crossover. These speakers require a fair amount of power even more so than my kappa 7's. I am running mine on adcom 545II and they sound pretty nice. The bass from the poly woofers compared to the img kappa woofers is different, a little softer but still nice tight and fast. My sister has RS4b's and they are a little more boomy but still very nice and do better with less power.

Mark K.
 
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Are you saying you don't think that is the correct wiring?
No, I'm saying the opposite. If someone was inside them to refoam or recap or whatever and disconnected the drivers, when you go to put them back in it's impossible to get the plus and minus wrong, because there is a wide blade (+) and a narrow blade (-) on the drivers and on the corresponding female connectors from the crossover. It's impossible to hook the drivers up incorrectly (the narrow - connector won't connect to the fat blade on the driver) unless you snip the connectors off and wire them directly to the terminals.
 

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No, I'm saying the opposite. If someone was inside them to refoam or recap or whatever and disconnected the drivers, when you go to put them back in it's impossible to get the plus and minus wrong, because there is a wide blade (+) and a narrow blade (-) on the drivers and on the corresponding female connectors from the crossover. It's impossible to hook the drivers up incorrectly (the narrow - connector won't connect to the fat blade on the driver) unless you snip the connectors off and wire them directly to the terminals.


Ok, wasn't sure but wanted clarification in case DMFK had them wrong.
That seems like such a simple detail (small terminal/large terminal) I'm amazed it isn't done more by manufacturers.
It certainly must help prevent mis-wiring.
 
I'm certain I wired them correctly. But, I do remember the terminals being the same size, making it possible to wire them wrong.

These RSIIII's are sounding great. Keep in mind, my experience level and exposer is comparable to someone who has only drank Budlite and one day has a Sammy Adams. No offense to Budlite drinkers:beerchug:.

Up until I powered these up, I only owned a portable blue tooth speaker box. So, these sound fantastic in comparison.

Happy New Year to everyone!
 
I'm certain I wired them correctly. But, I do remember the terminals being the same size, making it possible to wire them wrong.

These RSIIII's are sounding great. Keep in mind, my experience level and exposer is comparable to someone who has only drank Budlite and one day has a Sammy Adams. No offense to Budlite drinkers:beerchug:.

Up until I powered these up, I only owned a portable blue tooth speaker box. So, these sound fantastic in comparison.

Happy New Year to everyone!

IMO Bud Lite and Sam Adams both taste like Lake Erie in August...Sam Adams is far from a micro-brewery (they just want you to think they are). I worked in a large brewery for 2.5 years. It was very enlightening.

Your speakers, on the other hand, are a pretty nice way to enter the vintage stereo arena. Way better than what a lot of folks have.

If you're patient, deals will come along. I picked up my Kenwood Basic C2 pre-amp for around $125 on that auction site, and a JBL power amp for $100 (300 wpc @ 4 ohms) about 5 minutes from my house from a CL add.

Enjoy, and watch out. This stuff becomes a sickness, or as some call it, a hobby.
 
Some folks like--or liked-- the sound of the NYAL Moscode amps on infinity speakers. It is about the only way to get tubes that have the power to drive them. Other tube amps are going to cost in excess of a grand when you need about 75 or 100 watts, making you go the solid state route. But infinity amps driven by tubes simply have to be heard to be appreciated.
 
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