Need Help Getting Into a RS II

M

mcdmgb

AK Subscriber
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I'm considering recapping my RS IIs but I can't get into them. It appears that the board that screws into the rest as the speaker was installed as an interference fit. I can't even get a thin putty knife blade into it. Anyone have any suggestions as to how to get into it?

Thanks
 
Is it an RSII or an RSIIa/b?

I just got done restoring my RSIIs and the way I got the crossover plate portion out was by taking the top woofer out and pushing from inside gently.
 
It should push out with all the perimeter screws removed.
Possibly weather or time has expanded the panel itself.
Take the screws out on the back and then do what Brunt suggested above.

OH--there is not a lot of slack in the wiring, I found it handy to place a bar stool (it was just the right height in my situation, top of stool was about even with lower edge of the crossover panel.) in back of the speaker for my crossovers to rest on once pushed out from the cabinets.
 
goodolpg said:
It should push out with all the perimeter screws removed.
Possibly weather or time has expanded the panel itself.
Take the screws out on the back and then do what Brunt suggested above.

OH--there is not a lot of slack in the wiring, I found it handy to place a bar stool (it was just the right height in my situation, top of stool was about even with lower edge of the crossover panel.) in back of the speaker for my crossovers to rest on once pushed out from the cabinets.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing that bit of information.
 
goodolpg said:
It should push out with all the perimeter screws removed.
Possibly weather or time has expanded the panel itself.
Take the screws out on the back and then do what Brunt suggested above.

OH--there is not a lot of slack in the wiring, I found it handy to place a bar stool (it was just the right height in my situation, top of stool was about even with lower edge of the crossover panel.) in back of the speaker for my crossovers to rest on once pushed out from the cabinets.
Click to expand...

Nope. Even vigorous tapping with the handle of a screw driver will get them to budge. I'm starting to take this as a sign...
 
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There are 8 perimeter screws. Inside the perimeter there is a thin and maybe 3/8" wide strip of foam sealer.
That's it.
Unless someone had them apart at some point and then caulked (which should be able to be broken free) or glued (which would be tougher to break free) the crossover panel should be removable.
Only guessing but the crossover panel was cut from the back panel itself so the actual width of the opening would be whatever the saw blade width was.
I still wonder if humidity has caused swelling to the cabinet and/or panel.
It does sound as though taking out the crossover panel screws AND top woofer (I found the woofers to be lighter than I expected, but you don't want to let it just fall out) and then using some persuasion (rubber mallet and something (like a pipe or a long slender piece of wood) to press against the panel from the inside, make sure to put rags or something on the end of whatever you use so it doesn't gouge the crossover panel) to break it free.
^That procedure might be best attempted with a helper. One in front with the mallet and the other in back to make sure the panel does not just fall out once broken free.

Maybe it is a sign.
I was going to do relatively minor maintenance on my car a few weeks ago, drain and flush the coolant.
Was all set to do it and a voice in my head said "you're going to break the drain plug" which would leave me with no car.
Decided to put it off until better (warmer) weather, or let the repair shop do it before next Winter.
 
mcdmgb said:
I'm considering recapping my RS IIs but I can't get into them. It appears that the board that screws into the rest as the speaker was installed as an interference fit. I can't even get a thin putty knife blade into it. Anyone have any suggestions as to how to get into it?

Thanks
Click to expand...
leave well enough alone. Unless you hear a problem. I agree you are getting a sign from the AUDIO GODS
 
goodolpg said:
There are 8 perimeter screws. Inside the perimeter there is a thin and maybe 3/8" wide strip of foam sealer.
That's it.
Unless someone had them apart at some point and then caulked (which should be able to be broken free) or glued (which would be tougher to break free) the crossover panel should be removable.
Only guessing but the crossover panel was cut from the back panel itself so the actual width of the opening would be whatever the saw blade width was.
I still wonder if humidity has caused swelling to the cabinet and/or panel.
It does sound as though taking out the crossover panel screws AND top woofer (I found the woofers to be lighter than I expected, but you don't want to let it just fall out) and then using some persuasion (rubber mallet and something (like a pipe or a long slender piece of wood) to press against the panel from the inside, make sure to put rags or something on the end of whatever you use so it doesn't gouge the crossover panel) to break it free.
^That procedure might be best attempted with a helper. One in front with the mallet and the other in back to make sure the panel does not just fall out once broken free.

Maybe it is a sign.
I was going to do relatively minor maintenance on my car a few weeks ago, drain and flush the coolant.
Was all set to do it and a voice in my head said "you're going to break the drain plug" which would leave me with no car.
Decided to put it off until better (warmer) weather, or let the repair shop do it before next Winter.
Click to expand...

A wooden 2"x2" and plastic mallet worked. The crossover looks different than what's on the schematic. Looks like it's at least one capacitor and one resistor short.
 
SUCCESS!
Congrats!
A surprise but not a big surprise. Infinity made changes as production needs (and inventory) demanded.
This is why I caution people to visually check the values in their crossovers rather than just ordering from the "official schematic".
Interestingly, my RS II's matched the schematic, and other crossovers I've seen here or for sale seemed to match the schematic.
If you are quite sure they are as produced and have not been changed by any previous owners, I'd suggest matching the existing values in your speakers if/when you decide to place a parts order.
If you were to post a picture or two we (there are a few of us here with RS II's) could probably tell if yours are original or if they have had previous work done to them.
 
goodolpg said:
SUCCESS!
Congrats!
A surprise but not a big surprise. Infinity made changes as production needs (and inventory) demanded.
This is why I caution people to visually check the values in their crossovers rather than just ordering from the "official schematic".
Interestingly, my RS II's matched the schematic, and other crossovers I've seen here or for sale seemed to match the schematic.
If you are quite sure they are as produced and have not been changed by any previous owners, I'd suggest matching the existing values in your speakers if/when you decide to place a parts order.
If you were to post a picture or two we (there are a few of us here with RS II's) could probably tell if yours are original or if they have had previous work done to them.
Click to expand...

I'll get the other one open this weekend and post some photos. Based on comparison to the schematic, the crossover that I have open is missing the 12.5 uf and 6.8 uf shunts.
 
I opened up the other one this evening. It has the 12.5 uf and 6.8 uf shunts in place. If you look closer at the speaker that I first opened, there is a bit of the white mastic material at the locations where the two shunts are supposed to be located. I see no indication that anyone has touched the crossover since it left the factory. The speaker numbers are close (6707 and 6734), so I would be surprised if leaving the caps out was a conscious decision. Wonder if someone got into a hurry and buttoned the speaker up without checking for all the parts. It doesn't say much for Infinity's QA/QC though.
 
mcdmgb said:
I opened up the other one this evening. It has the 12.5 uf and 6.8 uf shunts in place. If you look closer at the speaker that I first opened, there is a bit of the white mastic material at the locations where the two shunts are supposed to be located. I see no indication that anyone has touched the crossover since it left the factory. The speaker numbers are close (6707 and 6734), so I would be surprised if leaving the caps out was a conscious decision. Wonder if someone got into a hurry and buttoned the speaker up without checking for all the parts. It doesn't say much for Infinity's QA/QC though.
Click to expand...


I guess I'm not surprised your crossovers are different.
I don't know where mine have been or what has been done to them in the previous 30+ years.
BUT--- even though they have consecutive serial #'s one had different midrange numbers than the other. Three 902-0632 in one, three 490813 in the other.
Of course, me being me, they all are the same number now. I chose 490813 just because I have several.
Both numbers are "correct" as far as having been used, just odd they didn't all have the same numbers being consecutive.
I've also seen some RS II's with the large magnet 490355 midranges.
 
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I'm not sure if I should rebuild them the way that I found them or install the missing capacitors. I guess I will pull one of the midranges on each to confirm that they are the same.
 
Yes, I think I add the caps. The mids on both speakers are the same, so I can't think of any reason why not to.
 
mcdmgb said:
Yes, I think I add the caps. The mids on both speakers are the same, so I can't think of any reason why not to.
Click to expand...


I hope you didn't mistake my midrange story for having anything to do with your differing crossovers.
Infinity crossover "adjustments" are fairly well known.
I just found it odd that my two speakers even though they were consecutive serial numbers had different "runs" of midrange drivers.
Could have been as produced, could have been a previous owner.

I'd suggest making sure your crossovers are indeed electrically (values of all components) the same with the only difference being two capacitors. Pictures would still be nice.
You said " If you look closer at the speaker that I first opened" but I don't see any pictures.
 
goodolpg said:
I hope you didn't mistake my midrange story for having anything to do with your differing crossovers.
Infinity crossover "adjustments" are fairly well known.
I just found it odd that my two speakers even though they were consecutive serial numbers had different "runs" of midrange drivers.
Could have been as produced, could have been a previous owner.

I'd suggest making sure your crossovers are indeed electrically (values of all components) the same with the only difference being two capacitors. Pictures would still be nice.
You said " If you look closer at the speaker that I first opened" but I don't see any pictures.
Click to expand...

Yes I will get some pictures up tomorrow.
 
Cool, thanks.
I like mysteries.
This forum and the information contained in it can serve as a reference (no pun intended) for future inquiries.
It very well could be a matter of ooops, someone forgot. But knowing Infinity made adjustments on the fly it would be nice to know if it was an "ooops" or an "adjustment." I doubt it was a revision given the closeness of your serial numbers.

On Klaus' site (Infinityclassics) some of the official schematics have a revisions listed.
Here's one of the more obvious examples, the RS 1.5. Note the "Revisions A-F and G&H"
http://www.infinity-classics.de/models/Reference-series-1978-klein/index-Reference-klein.htm
 
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