Need McIntosh speaker owners help

The best way to cut it out could be to get some piano wire between the woofer and box. Hold the wire horizontally and bring it across the top of the woofer once you have the screws out. Might work from the back too - if you could work the binding post box loose. The rear might be risky since McIntosh has been know to put massive baffles in their speakers, and you might not get a straight shot with the wire.

-Geoff
 
The best way to cut it out could be to get some piano wire between the woofer and box. Hold the wire horizontally and bring it across the top of the woofer once you have the screws out. Might work from the back too - if you could work the binding post box loose. The rear might be risky since McIntosh has been know to put massive baffles in their speakers, and you might not get a straight shot with the wire.

-Geoff

The binding post plate trick was the 2nd thing I tried and found out just how serious McIntosh was about making that speaker system a truely sealed enclosure ,with all 4 screws removed & my 260 pounds of weight pushing down not a budge of the plate ,I spoke with Brian at McIntosh and he pulled up a schematic showing a.series of baffles so I'm thinking the most rear baffle is touching the binding post plate ,he liked the nail idea but gave me another tip incase the nail method don't work , he uses a scratch awl with a bend in the middle for leverage and uses it to break the bond ,I like the LS-350s so much both sonically and asthetically that I may use them as a 2nd set of main speakers I can switch back n forth the 28s with ,even with a blown woofer the presentation is fantastic with 20.watts ,thank you for taking the time to help me,I really appreciate how the McIntosh guys help each other here .
 
The binding post plate trick was the 2nd thing I tried and found out just how serious McIntosh was about making that speaker system a truely sealed enclosure ,with all 4 screws removed & my 260 pounds of weight pushing down not a budge of the plate ,I spoke with Brian at McIntosh and he pulled up a schematic showing a.series of baffles so I'm thinking the most rear baffle is touching the binding post plate ,he liked the nail idea but gave me another tip incase the nail method don't work , he uses a scratch awl with a bend in the middle for leverage and uses it to break the bond ,I like the LS-350s so much both sonically and asthetically that I may use them as a 2nd set of main speakers I can switch back n forth the 28s with ,even with a blown woofer the presentation is fantastic with 20.watts ,thank you for taking the time to help me,I really appreciate how the McIntosh guys help each other here .

You`re most welcome, for any help my experience/techniques and the other`s might provide in the non-destructive/cabinet defacing recessed speaker extracting methods, might provide..

Go with whatever you, and your skill`s that you are comfortable with, that will seem to work, in your situation..

My overall repair techniques have to be creative, or desperate, if you will, do to my physical limitations, and may, or may not be applicable to others, not so affected..

Good luck, and success with whatever method end`s up working for you, Sir.

Kind regards, Billy Ferris
 
Not really related but saw this thread as I isolate on my porch and ~~?


A couple years back got a mint pair of these due to a friend selling off some things.
I think they sound very good, have them at my main TV.
They do need power to open up.
They are 89dB rated to 500w. To play, the two 10" woofers require power.

I use a Bob Carver SunFire 300X2 that gives each 600w at 4 ohms.

I have tried various things at the TV, but prefer stereo. These are very clear for dialog and need no sub to help out for explosions.

I have more expensive speakers in other systems. I believe most would be impressed with these. I am.
As a plus they are beautiful.
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The binding post plate trick was the 2nd thing I tried and found out just how serious McIntosh was about making that speaker system a truely sealed enclosure ,with all 4 screws removed & my 260 pounds of weight pushing down not a budge of the plate ,I spoke with Brian at McIntosh and he pulled up a schematic showing a.series of baffles so I'm thinking the most rear baffle is touching the binding post plate ,he liked the nail idea but gave me another tip incase the nail method don't work , he uses a scratch awl with a bend in the middle for leverage and uses it to break the bond ,I like the LS-350s so much both sonically and asthetically that I may use them as a 2nd set of main speakers I can switch back n forth the 28s with ,even with a blown woofer the presentation is fantastic with 20.watts ,thank you for taking the time to help me,I really appreciate how the McIntosh guys help each other here .

So since this thread is revived, I'm curious to know if you finally removed the woofer safely and if so, how.

Thanks,
 
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