need some capacitors, can't find online.

[CKDC]

I just got a Yamaha AX 400 integrated amplifier. The bad news is that I paid $20.00 for it. The bad news is that it needs some capacitors replaced. Otherwise it looks pretty clean and sounded okay for the little bit I listened to it.

I went to Mouser and Digikey, among others to find two 8200 µF 63 volt electrolytic capacitors. I can order some and wait the expected 21 weeks for delivery.

Where else could I find these?

Is there something else I could substitute? (the current ones are 25mm and there is not much room to go wider.)

Oh, and I pretty much exhausted my knowledge of capacitors writing this post. I am a noob at this sort of thing.

Thanks!

 

[petehall347]

closest i could find are these . 30mm
MCHPR63V828M30X51

 

[w1jim]

You can increase the voltage to find another that is in stock, you could also increase the capacitance to 10,000 uf safely.
What makes you think they're bad? Often there is glue on the base of the capacitors that is mistaken for leakage.
Post a picture if you can.

 

[CKDC]

This is what is in there now.

I checked the repair manual and it lists them as 63 volt. I am curious why these say 63 W V. What is the significance of the "W?"

 

[CKDC]

This is why I suspect they are bad. There is a mix of the orange and purple. Plus, the wire connections are corroded. Would just the glue cause corrosion?

 

[CKDC]

closest i could find are these . 30mm
MCHPR63V828M30X51

Thanks for the recommendation.

http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mchpr63v828m30x51/electrolytic-capacitor-snap-in/dp/55T0495

If I mounted one of the larger diameter caps and "floated" the other while maybe zip tie-ing it to the other would that be a bad thing? I don't want to void the warranty on this thing.

 

[w1jim]

Your pictures didn't post.
Yes - sometimes the glue can cause corrosion.
I've seen caps rated in WV but never seen an explanation - I don't think it's a relevant factor.

 

[Hyperion]

IIRC 'WV' means Working Voltage.

 

[rothwellaudio]

IIRC 'WV' means Working Voltage.

Correct.
Capacitors should be PCB mounted or held securely using a proper capacitor clip. Having caps held it place with cable ties, hot melt glue, blue tack, chewing gum or string etc. is not good practice.

 

[CKDC]

 

[w1jim]

Those caps look finefrom here - no bulging at the top.
I'd pull them out and scrape the glue off of the PC board. Look at the underside where the wires enter (at the seals) and check for leakage there.
I'd clean or replace those jumpers and the surrounding area.

 

[nj pheonix]

If you're still considering new caps, how about this
https://www.digikey.com/product-det.../380LQ822M063J052/380LQ822M063J052-ND/4466258

 

[blhagstrom]

Those caps look finefrom here - no bulging at the top.
I'd pull them out and scrape the glue off of the PC board. Look at the underside where the wires enter (at the seals) and check for leakage there.
I'd clean or replace those jumpers and the surrounding area.

WHY do people think filter caps bulge on top when bad???

There is NO reason they would.
The "bulging" people see is the plastic cap over the can (insulation).
The caps have a vent hole in the bottom, covered with rubber. THAT will vent any pressure LONG before the metal can will deform.

People really need to STOP judging caps by looks.
You cannot SEE bad electronics unless they are physically exploded or burnt or charred from overheating.
Some parts run hot and discolor but are fine so even that is not "the problem" in many cases.

 

[CKDC]

If you're still considering new caps, how about this
https://www.digikey.com/product-det.../380LQ822M063J052/380LQ822M063J052-ND/4466258

This probably looks the best but it is a "snap in" as opposed to wire leads.

I did look at Digikey but must have overlooked that one. (Probably because in my many searches, I did not include "snap-in") Thank you.

I am currently unsure if I should replace the caps from reading this thread. There is no bulging but the dried colorations on the pc board look ominous.

 

[nj pheonix]

Some here test C and leakage and conclude condition and work from there..
Common wisdom says change them. They're old, they're cheap, and if you pull them to test, the labor is the same. My 2c

 

[CKDC]

So, I am coming back to this after being busy with other things.

I cannot find caps with size and values like the originals. I can get some snap in type though. Just trying to think a bit outside the box let me run this by you guys.

I solder leads onto the snap in capacitors. Mount the cap to a approximately 1/2" piece of pvc tubing put the leads through the pc board and glue the pvc to the pc board. Is that too whacked out to work?

 

[ChrisMarantz]

I solder leads onto the snap in capacitors. Mount the cap to a approximately 1/2" piece of pvc tubing put the leads through the pc board and glue the pvc to the pc board. Is that too whacked out to work?

Sounds like a bad way to mount capacitors.

I'm guessing the you could probably make 30mm caps fit. Look on the under side of the PCB and see if you can re-drill one of the holes for each capacitor, so the leads from a 30mm cap will fit - Chris

 

[nj pheonix]

Nothing like this will work for you?
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...x4areZ1yx4ardZ1yx4arcZ1ypax18Z1ylo5rpZ1z0x3qc

I wouldn't mount caps as you've suggested

 

[CKDC]

Nothing like this will work for you?
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...x4areZ1yx4ardZ1yx4arcZ1ypax18Z1ylo5rpZ1z0x3qc

I wouldn't mount caps as you've suggested

This list is all "snap in" type. I need leaded type. The 30mm caps might work but will be a VERY tight fit. They might end up on top of the jumpers.

 

[petehall347]

the originals look like snap in to me .. i thought the ones i said earlier should just fit .. it appears to me there is 5mm gap between the originals ..
old ones are likely fine anyway .. just get rid of that old glue unless they measure bad .