Need some help with a 6300 TT

Tmac83

Super Member
Hey everyone, hoping I can get some help on this one... I have a few questions. Picked up a 6300 TT about 3 months ago, great shape, I'll try to add some pics when I get the chance.

1)Anyway, there is a bit of discoloration on the stainless steel right where it says Marantz 6300 - sort of a rust color. The previous owner indicated that this was from aging. Is there anyway to remove this safely?

2) The pitch controls are extremely sensitive (which I knew previous to buying the unit), but if you adjust them carefully, they do stay and the TT keeps speed. What normally causes this? Is this something that can be easily fixed? I have never made any repairs to anything (This along with my 2238B are my first vintage units). If I can't fix it how much should I expect to pay to have it fixed?

3. Currently, the TT has what appears to be an Audio Technica AT71ELC cartridge which works fine and sounds good to me. I realize there are plenty of cartridges that cost plenty of money. However, I also know the 6300 probably isn't the best TT and will not accurately reproduce the sound quality that the higher end cartridges provide, nor can I afford them. What would an appropriate, good quality cartridge, that I can afford (under $200), for this TT?

Thanks in advance for any help, I am new at all of this!
 
Hey Tmac.

I always thought the metal is brushed aluminum. At least that's what mine looks like. Try using warm soapy water and a soft towel. Cleaning the brushed textures is tough, rub with the grain. Use a cotton swab in between the letters.

Can't help you on the pitch control but I'm sure someone will or do search. The topic has been covered.

I had some Empire cart originally on mine and changed to a Shure M97x. The Shure is inexpensive ($65) and works well and lot of the guys seem to like it. I haven't used it enough to tell. You can find Grado Golds ($200) on eBay for $129 (new) which is a great deal and supposedly great sounding. I've been dying to try one but I already have to many carts on other TTs.

I used to have two 2238Bs. I really like that model. But the phono section is just average. If you want to hear more definition I'd start there.

Good luck!
 
My 6300 pitch control was very flaky, I flushed it out with De-Oxit and it's much better, still touchy, just get it dialed in, and leave it. Some good cart ideas, I think the AT 440 is well regarded also. As for cleaning, start with the soap and water, then graduate to toothpaste on a soft old toothbrush. I just cleaned up an SX-650 faceplate, and it came out pretty nice.
 
DeOxit solved my pitch control problems in my 6320 (armless 6300). I cleaned from below and don't recall but maybe there were other speed controls I cleaned under there too. Anyway mine is steady and the controls work as they should.
 
Thanks everyone! I am going to order some DeOxit and open it up and see what I can do. If I get stuck I'll take some pics and maybe someone can help me out. I assume I can apply the DeOxit liberally and not worry about it right???? Is there a good way to go about doing this since all the electronics are on the bottom? Or do I just use it where the pitch controls are without opening it up?
 
hi tmac,
as for cartridges, you might want to try a grado. I use a grado gold on a pioneer pl112d and it sounds damn good running it through a 2265b. The gold will set you back about $150- $200. They do have less expensive ones, but the gold is worth the money. Just my 2 cents.:music: :thmbsp:
 
I agree that De-Oxit on the speed control pots works great. Mine is very smooth and responsive. No problem controlling the speed at all. The stainless steel cleaning wipes also work well on the brushed aluminum. A mild solvent will also remove organic stains.

Ditto on the AT 440ML. This cartridge sounds as good as many cartridges that cost a lot more.

Carl
 
Update, I opened it up tonight, looked beautiful. Either someone previous did a really nice job of cleaning it up, or it had never been opened. Stamped Jan 14, 1976. Anyway, cleaned alot of surface dirt on it, and got the toothpaste out for yellowish organe discoloration on the face plate, came right off looks great. As for the pitch control, the DeOxit helped alot. I have way more control than I had before, so thank you everyone! Pretty simple fix.

Still have a question though about the pitch controls- are they suppose to go from fast to slow? Mine does but then when I turn it all the way toward the slow end it goes back to fast- obviously not a big deal, just wondered.

Also seems like have have more static now, and the record I was playing was clean. Not static on the channels or anything just little cracks and pops like there was dust on the record. Does this mean the stylus need to be replaced or is not at the right angle? I have the counter weight set at 1.5. Maybe my ears are just adjusting to the 2238B's warm sound. Thanks again!
 
Tmac83 said:
I have the counter weight set at 1.5. Maybe my ears are just adjusting to the 2238B's warm sound. Thanks again!

Do you understand how to use the scale on the counterweight? It's not readily apparent to people who have never used that form of tracking weight setting.
 
I just looked my cartridge up online and it says between 1.0 and 2.0 so I have it set so that the line on top of the tone arm that goes to the counter weight is between 1 and 2. Is that correct? Please let me know if I need to swtich it. So to answer your question, I don't know, I was just trying to be logical about it.

TC
 
Tmac83 said:
I just looked my cartridge up online and it says between 1.0 and 2.0 so I have it set so that the line on top of the tone arm that goes to the counter weight is between 1 and 2. Is that correct? Please let me know if I need to swtich it. So to answer your question, I don't know, I was just trying to be logical about it.

TC

The key is knowing how to "zero" those things. If you know how to do this already, then ignore these instructions.

First thing you need to do is balance the tonearm. Move the counterweight(rotate) back and forth until the tonearm is "floating". Ideally the stylus should be floating or balancing at about the same level as the platter. This is now "zero" grams tracking force. Next you rotate the black dial to Zero while NOT moving the silver part of counterweight. You'll see if you hold the silver part with one hand, the black dial will rotate with your other hand. Set it so that the Zero lines up on top. Finally, if you want 1-1/2 grams tracking, roatate the entire counterwieght assembly so that 1-1/2 grams on the dial is on top. When you rotate the counterweight by touching only the silver portion, the black dial will roate along with it.

In the long run, it's always a good idea to get a guage like the Shure tracking force gauge (about $20) for accuracy.
 
Scott- I did the calibration, I think it was actually the record I was playing, but I am sure it needed to be done anyway. Thanks for the post, just another new thing that I learned and can do now. I will look into getting that Shure tracking force gauge. Thanks again, much appreciated!

TC
 
I use a micro digital weight (the precision type +/- 0.1gram) to weigh the stylus force. It is very cheap now on Ebay. Consider ourselves lucky as technology has improved so fast in this area. The mechanical weight is clumsy and inaccurate.
 
Here are some pics of the turntable
 

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The one to the left is a Nagaoka AD-653 EP Adapter, the one to the right is a Audio Technica dust remover? I have no idea what it is exactly called, it's not in use right now. I would actually like to take it off, unless for some reason I get advice to the contrary. I will take some pictures of it, maybe someone can provide me with some more information about it.
 
Tmac83 said:
. . . the one to the right is a Audio Technica dust remover? I would actually like to take it off, unless for some reason I get advice to the contrary.

I would hesitate to mess with it. You may damage the plinth. How is it fixed mounted?

Carl
 
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