Discussion in 'Yamaha' started by belgianbrain, Oct 6, 2017.
Thanks. I will get one and try it.
If you are referring to the Mundorf caps, they are much smaller and much lighter than the original caps and they have a self adhesive on the bottom that you apply when mounting them. I don't know if further mechanical support will be needed, but I will see when I reassemble. Incidentally, none will reach the original mechanical supports - these new caps are far too short.
The Bournes adjustment will be accessible with a small long plastic screw driver, even if it looks blocked in the photo. A different configuration might have been better, but I already had several of these in stock.
Anyone got suggestions for quality, reasonably priced RCA jacks and binding posts?
I'd like some solid, like solid copper, etc., but I'm not paying $80 a pair like the boutique rip-off companies are charging.
$67 for 4, with 25% off right now.
My tech was able to get Cardas CCGG-S for $62 with 4 posts, tax in. But that was 4 years ago. Gold plated solid copper. No brass and no rhodium.
I also had Mundorf MLytic 22k caps put in. They're bypassed by 0.1uF silver in oil, smaller than I wanted but was cheap at the time and tech was concerned about available space. It sounds great to me. Thinking of trying 1uF bypass later.
Would you think that the sound of your B2 will be "better" with new solid copper CINCH jack ? There will be much cheaper parts with same result !
can you explain us why you bypass your big cap with a 0,1µF capacitor ?
Good question. For me yes. There is enough of a difference. I've replaced speaker binding posts with these also. I've tried others even the same type from Cardas but with rhodium plated and prefer these. It costs more but the B2 is worth it I think.
No, I don't. I just want quality jacks. Suggestions are welcome!
Like I said it was available and CHEAP at the time. A bit on the small size I know that. I don't know the sound benefits compared to not having it since I haven't tried without it. I do know I will try 1uF bypass in the Mundorf silver and oil now that I know there is room. Just need to save up for it. When that happens. I'll report back.
Forgot to say my $62 is in Canadian dollars.
I would not use uninsulated binding posts, too risky, especially with the V-Fets being so precious...
Nope, but I did with a C-4
No it doesn't. I use it all the time.
I do a lot of C-4's and it has never damaged the board or silkscreen.
if they were mounted vertically you would be ok, but they are not. On a horizontal mounting possition, I sense that ultimately gravity and heat will win.
Yamaha silk screen is really good, especially the old stuff on phenolic PCBs. It doesn't come off.
I use acetone/cotton ball/guitar pick (doesn't scratch) on phenolic boards and on fibreglass boards and nail polish remover (acetone based) which has a tiny bit of almond oil in it. Why you ask? It doesn't leave the brown phenolic leached out and white/dusty looking when it dries. I discovered it when I stole my GF's nail polish remover one day when I'd left the lid off my acetone and it was all evaporated...
I said it can and it did at one of my C-4's. Bad luck I guess
Great tip, thanks. There's some of that woman stuff laying around here also
I would suggest the Pomona 3770 series binding posts. They are gold over tellurium copper. Although tellurium sounds exotic, it is alloyed with copper to improve machinability. My experience with Pomona parts is that they are of excellent quality, and priced reasonably for that quality.
I think you should only opt for diamonz coated, solid platinum binding posts. They will help you hear the mouse fart from the back of the recording studio.
Anything less is for non-sophisticated audiophiles
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