New Challenge = Best Bang for the Buck

bubba42

Active Member
I have an idea for a competition, the best bang for the buck! I've always been a fan of giant-killers since buying an NAD in the 80s. What would you nominate for punching way above its weight class? Anything audio.

Since we are in the "Values" category, extra points for dirt cheap. ;)
 
I'll start us off... The recent series of chip amps. Starting with the ~$20 Lepai 2020, easily matching amps of 10x its cost. Now many have moved on to the TPA3116. I suspect chip amps will continue to be among the best bang-for-the-buck.
 
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Here's a value of another sort:

There are 26 preamps in Stereophile's Class A list this issue (October 2015). In alphabetical order, with prices listed, they are:

Audio Research Reference 5SE, $13,000
Audio Research SP20, $9,000
Ayre Acoustics KX-R Twenty, $27,500
Ayre Acoustics K-XE MP, $4,350
Bespoke Audio Company Passive, $12,000
Boulder 2110, $55,000
Classe CP-800, $6,000
Convergent Audio Technology SL1 Reference, $9,995
D’Agostino Momentum, $32,000
DarTZeel NHB-18S, $31,700
Lamm Industries LL1 Signature, $42,790
Luxman Classic CL-38U, $4,200
Music First Audio Baby Reference, $8,590
Nagra Jazz, $14,500
Parasound Halo JC 2 BP, $4,495
Pass Labs XP-30, $16,500
Placette Audio Active Line Stage, $6,995
Promitheus Audio Reference TVC, $890
Shindo Masseto, $13,500
Simaudio Moon Evolution 850P, $30,000
Simaudio Moon Evolution 740P, $9,500
TAD Laboratories C600, $42,000
VAC Signature SE, $19,500
VTL TL5.5 Series II Signature, $8,000
Ypsilon PST-100 Mk2, $37,000
Zesto Audio Leto, $7,500

Total $466405
Average $17,942.50

When I see the average price of "Stereophile Class A" preamp at nearly $18K, it just tickles me pink to know that I have sound that plays in that ballpark, for $580. :yes: I must live with only one volume knob, however. Just thought I'd spread the word!

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=649914

No affiliation. YMMV. Have a banana.

:banana:

I can vouch for that little Lepai, too, btw. :)
 
TA2021, TPA3116, TA2020, IRS2092 are all great bargains in the amp world. I'd say the DIY Overnight Sensations are a great pair of speakers for not much money as are the Tekton M Lores. The AT95E is the bang for the buck poster child of cheap phono carts now that the ed red is gone.
 
The $10 TPA3116 paired with a $5 Playstation. Never has good sound been more affordable.

P2100001.jpg
 
Yes. I used the 8" Betsy drivers from Wild Burro Audio and Eminence Alpha 15A woofers, bi-amped.

Optimal dimensions are: 20" wide and 38" tall. Mine are a little smaller as I used some plywood I had on hand. 3/4 MDF is cheaper and sounds just as good as plywood. Woofers centered 10" above bottom edge of baffle and Betsy driver is 32" above bottom edge of baffle and shifted 2" off center. These need to be constructed in mirror image of each other.

In the picture I'm using a 80 hz passive filter from Parts Express on just the woofers while the Betsy's run full range without a crossover. The Alphas need at least 75 watts. A better sounding solution IMO is using a single 100 watt plate amp to drive both woofers and the amp of choice for the Betsy's running full range.
 
Dealers choice on sources and cabling...

Preamp: Job Pre2 - $1699
Amp: Job 225 - $1699
Speakers: Salk Songtowers - $1999

The Job pieces are 90% + of Goldmund's Metis 2 and Metis 3 which would set you back about $14K. I'd say that makes them high value. The Salks I think will compete with anything up to $4K or so AND you get to pick you're choice if beautiful veneers. KEF LS50's could be subbed in too if someone wanted standmounts.

I was running this combo as my main rig until just recently and I can tell you that it's VERY good. I ran the LS50's before the Salks... They were wonderful as well.

I love "high value" components. Albeit, of the more current/modern variety.

My current rig I would place in this same category.

- Woody
 
The $37 Sain Smart 6n3 from Amazon would be an incredibly good preamp at 10 times it's price.

It adds nice warmth and great richness to any solid state or class d amp. It far surpasses my $400 Aric preamp and has better detail than my Conrad Johnson PV2.

In comparison the vintage Dynaco Pas 2/3's I used to fool with would be left in the dust.

Now I'll admit that my boutique capped Bottlehead Foreplay III is better but not light years better.

51LZouiJjFL._SY355_.jpg
 
Amp a TPA3116 with reasonable power supply it can be made for £30 or less, speakers Mark Audio; Pulvia 7 lot of box types to try £50 plus wood. A reasonable DVD that can play SACD used can be had for £30 or less or if just playing CD then a lot of good classic players can be had for less that £15, I got a good old Denon off freecycle for free. A CD player or Computer can be improved by a DAC and it seems there are a lot of reasonable ones, I have a Crystal based one, some well made or well modded CD player may not be improved though. If I was still using CDs I would look for a good older player based on one of the Philips DAC chips and improve the out put, I have ripped all 3-4000 CDs to a hard drive and put them in cupboards and under the bed. I fancy getting record deck for the few I have left but seems they are going up in price. Still CD or SACD playback of good quality less that £100. With some parts it is relatively easy to upgrade. The Raspberry Pi looks an interesting option for a diskless server, there are cheep DACs on Ebay etc that looks like you could build one for £35-40 and one add on card uses one of the TPA3116 type chips think it was the 3118 so you could get away with no extra amp, add a wifi card and moisture resistant speakers ideal bath room system or else where in the home.
 
If you've followed the giant TPA3116 vs Tri-path thread you've seen this picture before. It's a $10 TPA3116 velcro'ed to it's $100 Astron regulated linear power supply. The tube preamp is the $37 Sain Smart. The plate amp below is driving two bucket subs. What great audio times we live in! :bigok:

P1160001.jpg
 
I'd nominate the Infinity Primus p363 for a bang-for-the-buck award. Here's a quote from a review:

But, realizing the P363’s can usually be had for $400/pr on sale (sometimes even cheaper), they are truly a remarkable value. If you can catch the local deal Fry’s often offers for $200/pair for these babies, RUN out and get them even if they are for a remote system or office. There are currently no floorstanding speakers on the planet for that price that could compete in my opinion. Recommended!

I got them for $194/pair and I am absolutely thrilled at that price to performance ratio!

Keep the nominations coming!
 
I think that the Yamaha integrated amps, from Accessories4Less, are a very good bang for the buck deal. The S301 is $280, the S501 is $400. The 301 gives you 60 honest wpc, a decent preamp section with a bypass and variable loudness, and a DAC. The 501 steps you up to 85 wpc with some higher grade parts. They both have subwoofer outs. They even have MM phono inputs.

Stick a PC or CD / Blu Ray player / Sonos in front of it, pick up a nice set of speakers and it should make for a very nice setup.

Add the YBA-11 Bluetooth receiver and you can stream to it wireless.
 
I'd like to give a shout out to the Pioneer SP-BS22LR speakers. I feel that they are a great value, especially if you catch them on sale. Amazon frequently has them on sale for $99 a pair, sometimes less. In fact I've seen them as low as $69. I use a pair of them in my TV 2.1 system to great effect. I am also a fan of the TPA3116 amps, I use one in my main 2 channel system to power a pair of Wharfedale W60 speakers, and in my computer system to power a pair of Omega Super 3i monitors. In both cases I am very pleased with the results.
 
I would say there are several class T amplifiers for very cheap indeed that I have heard that take out some much pricier gear if sound quality is the only consideration. For instance there are full out integrated amps for $2000 that don't sound better than $50 worth of class T amplifier BUT you generally get one input and very low power. So you need to buy HE speakers. (I'm generally in the higher efficiency speaker camp though too high and problems arise). The class T amps don't take out good SET tube amplifiers or good SEP or better A/B PP tubes but all of the latter cost a helluva lot more money too.

The cheapest amps I've formally reviewed were from KingRex and Trends Audio. As these are production units and manufactured you should be able to DIY something as good or better for considerably less - but at $200 or whatever they cost - you get pretty good sound for low money in a tiny box which look nice - the Tube preamp is cute too. Still, I've never heard true giant killers - you can slay any given giant mind you - but I've never heard one that can slay all of them. The T amps aren't taking out my OTO or my LM 219IA - you have to willfully ignore what these amps are bringing to the table in terms of tone body definition decay transients, dynamics etc. As a cheap ass - I really really want to believe but longer auditions always make the separation.
 
I hope folks don't confuse T-amps ( Tripaths :boring: ) amps with the latest class D's from Texas Instruments. The TPA's and their derivatives are far better.
 
If you've followed the giant TPA3116 vs Tri-path thread you've seen this picture before. It's a $10 TPA3116 velcro'ed to it's $100 Astron regulated linear power supply. The tube preamp is the $37 Sain Smart. The plate amp below is driving two bucket subs. What great audio times we live in! :bigok:

P1160001.jpg

Pulled the plug on the Sain...thanks for the tip! With that said, I've never built ANYTHING electronic before...I've done some soldering, replaced some parts in a PC...nothing with tubes or high voltage though...hopefully this won't kill me. I see there are wiring "instructions" from the reviewers on Amazon, going to attempt to follow those...any tips on installation/assembly highly appreciated! Reviewers on there are making it sound like you can get zapped while assembling the thing, even with it unplugged? Can't tell if that's what they were implying but doesn't seem right. I know it could hold a charge after being used but is that much care needed in assembling it for the first time (besides, obviously, getting the wiring right)?
 
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