New project General Electric Model RC-1671A

I may have a transformer from a similar one, but as I recall, it used 6AQ5 output tubes and had a 6V / 12V winding (all the tuner tubes were 12V).

Sams folder 674-9 covers the RC1671, don't think I have it though I might be able to find a copy. For tuner and / or remote transmitter / receiver I'd need chassis number(s).
 
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Hey Tom thanks for your post. I've been actively looking to find a similar or original transformer with the same output voltages but no luck. I found a few Chinese made transformers on Ebay, but I don't know if I should jeopardize my console's performance. I don't want to spend a fortune either on parts but just good enough to get my console working again.

I believe I found the schematics for the RC1671A and TU20C tuner. However, I might have to make the amplifier circuit since I don't currently have it and I doubt I can find it online.
 
Does anyone have or know the part number of the power transformer? I'm actively looking to find one on Ebay. Any help is much appreciated, thanks!
 
Hi! Our family just picked up a cousin of these RC 4671 A at an estate sale. We were given a discount because they said it was working when they were setting up for the sale but at the sale it didn’t turn on.

I immediately checked the fuse and it was shot. It looks like a slow blow 1.25 A 125V. We couldn’t find that exact match but we bought some 1A fuses. We tried twice and they both blew. Once we had power and I saw the tubes warming up, and once it just popped.

Does anybody know if the 1.25 A 125V slow blow was the correct fuse for the unit?
Can anyone verify the current draw on warm up and operation?

I’m going to check for shorts, but knowing the baseline will help get a head start.

Also what is the metal box below the tubes? Ours didn’t come with it or was removed. Is it the remote amp?
 
Most likely the filter cap, or coupling caps are shot, trying it further will likely cause damage, if it has not already been damaged. Do not try it again, there is no point. 1.25 amp sounds correct for that amp.
 
Most likely the filter cap, or coupling caps are shot, trying it further will likely cause damage, if it has not already been damaged. Do not try it again, there is no point. 1.25 amp sounds correct for that amp.

Thank you.
Sounds like it might be a bit too far gone for my electronics “expertise”
 
The caps are pretty easy to replace, as long as there is no other damage. Some pictures of your unit could help us help you.
The metal box below the tubes was the remote speaker transmitter.
You can pull the 5Y3 tube and retest, if the fuse (try a 1A fuse) does not blow, it is likely not damaged beyond needing caps.
 
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The caps are pretty easy to replace, as long as there is no other damage. Some pictures of your unit could help us help you.
The metal box below the tubes was the remote speaker transmitter.
I will do that test and send some photos. It will be this afternoon because we have baseball this morning....Thank you.
 
The caps are pretty easy to replace, as long as there is no other damage. Some pictures of your unit could help us help you.
The metal box below the tubes was the remote speaker transmitter.
You can pull the 5Y3 tube and retest, if the fuse (try a 1A fuse) does not blow, it is likely not damaged beyond needing caps.

Test results: 5Y3 removed=fuse intact.

Here’s a few photos.
 

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Ok.. your coupling caps look like ceramic disk, which are pretty reliable(but don't sound very good) The big yellow cap with all of the wires coming out is the likely bad part, and should be replaced.
It can be replaced by separate caps, or Radio Daze or Tubes and more may have a drop in replacement "firecracker capacitor" The 5Y3 may also have been damaged, If you know of anyone near you with a tube tester, you should have it tested.
 
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Holey Moley. Scroe! I grew up with one of those. Ours had a B&W TV next to the turntable door. IIRC the table in ours was a Dual but I am not certain.
 
Hey Jimmy JB22, great find! I have a similar console RC1671A that I'm trying to restore. I attached the schematic drawing for your console, which would help you troubleshoot/repair any issues you may come across. I highly recommend replacing your filter cap to avoid any hum in your speakers. Also, get all your tubes tested for any leakage or bad readings before you fire up the console again. Make sure your 7189 output power tubes are matched or closely match to give you better performance and sound quality. In regard to your in-line fuse, if you can't find a 1.25A fuse you can always put in a 1.5A fuse instead and it should work just fine. It's ok to go a bit over since you will be drawing just 250mA more of current, which is not much. Good luck on bringing your console back to life again!
 

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Thank you for all the assistance. 1.25 A fuses were an easy find online and they are on their way. I also have ordered new caps to replace the filter cap, and I have reached out locally to see there is any tube testing equipment sitting around looking to get a little workout. I live in central Illinois which, by all googling, is a relative desert for vintage audio supplies & services.
 
Great, no problem. Lucky you, home of vintage audio gear! I live in California and is quite hard to find vintage supplies or shops for parts. I usually just order them online too is more convenient for me out here. Best of luck!
 
Update: The source of the blown fuses was a bad filter cap. I got the parts in Friday and was listening to some vinyl before going to bed. The turn table mechanics need a bit of refreshing, but the radio works great and the speakers are producing great sound. I got a NOS GE 5Y3GT rectifier tube for kicks because the one in there was a Sovtec and it was relatively inexpensive. To many hours (10,000 per my capacitor specs) of warm tube sounds filling the house.

Thanks again everyone.
 
Hello everyone,

I'm hoping this thread isn't completely dead after 7 months, but I'm wondering if someone out there might have a thought or suggestion for me.

I've had a GE RC1671 for a few years now and it is my most prized possession. I recently moved, and packed the cabinet in the car with me w/the hinged speakers removed (bubble wrapped within an inch of their lives). Now, the speakers aren't working. I'd had intermittent connection issues with them in the past but it would always resolve itself within 5ish minutes.

Do you have any suggestions as to what might be causing this? I've seen recommendations like using deoxit to be sure there's a good connection on the copper plated hinge. Could it be something more involved than that? I'd be a total novice w/r/t any electrical repairs on my own. The wait times for antique stereo repair in my town are months and months.
 
Hello everyone,

I'm hoping this thread isn't completely dead after 7 months, but I'm wondering if someone out there might have a thought or suggestion for me.

I've had a GE RC1671 for a few years now and it is my most prized possession. I recently moved, and packed the cabinet in the car with me w/the hinged speakers removed (bubble wrapped within an inch of their lives). Now, the speakers aren't working. I'd had intermittent connection issues with them in the past but it would always resolve itself within 5ish minutes.

Do you have any suggestions as to what might be causing this? I've seen recommendations like using deoxit to be sure there's a good connection on the copper plated hinge. Could it be something more involved than that? I'd be a total novice w/r/t any electrical repairs on my own. The wait times for antique stereo repair in my town are months and months.
The hinges are where the connection occurs, I would use a brass bristle brush (say that 5 times quickly) and some contact cleaner to clean where the hinges come together.
 
Hello all. I’m new here and to forums in general. I inherited one of these from my grandparents and it’s in unbelievable condition. Cleaned the exterior up and decided to see if it works. YUP! Only issues so far are scratchy knobs and some humming. The main issue is, the left speaker doesn’t seem to work at all. I cleaned the hinges really well and still nothing. I have the schematic but those are definitely not in my wheelhouse. I’m an audio engineer and have worked on consoles with dirty pan pots and VCA faders and that’s what this sounds like to me. I’m sure it needs to caps and tubes and such, but where is a good point to start for a guy that doesn’t know the guts of electronics? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
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