New to Marantz, new old 2270, recommendations

Aha! I am glad it helped. Super nice job on the jumpers, they look like something that would be expensive to buy. Rock on!!
Thanks for holding my hand on this one!

The jumpers look a bit fancy and "overdone" with the braid sleeve. I made it with stuff I had in the parts cemetery box. :D
I have been making my cables for a while now, it's very inexpensive to build a decent good quality cables.

good move we use Canare in the studio for the long runs-dead quiet!:D
It's a great Cable in fact! Perfect for this application. Also, it's very easy to work with, the insulations resist very well to the soldering heat, the result is always super clean. For these jumpers, I wired the 4 leads together to the rca center conductor and the braid to the outer conductor. Very nifty stuff! :thmbsp:
 
Nice job!
The 150 5W resistor on the power supply does run hot. I generally replace them with a new one with longer leads so that the resistor is 'high and proud' away from the other components.

Tom

Done! I've replaced the toasty resistor, it's seating a bit higher now, it may help cooling it down a bit.





Almost forgot the meters, the silmic it's a bit out of place in this location but that's what I had in hands.



Now I am missing the amp boards. I have a feeling that says that I'll fuc$ up on this one :no:
 
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Nah, you'll git it! Don't forget the tantalum hiding under R760 (pot).
Yes! The two electrolytic and the tantalum.
This is what coming down:

Whats the procedure to take the main boards out? I am planing to start by:

1) Releasing the temperature diode and transistor from the heat-shink;
2) Unsoldering the ground wire from the chassis;
3) Unscrew the heat-sink bases on the chassis;
4) lay the board down and unscrew it from the heat-sink;
Q1:. Is there enough slack on the power trans wires to expose the back of the board?
Q2:. Is it necessary to take the transistors out? I have new mica insulators and heat-sink paste, could refresh it. Anyway, I am willing to cut this corner if the power transistor's removal is not necessary.
 
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I think you will need to pull the output transistors to get the heat sink out.
Note which output goes where, even though the boards are flipped one side to the other, the outputs are not.
The board can be lowered out the hole in the chassis and worked on from the bottom.
Patience is a virtue!

Tom
 
No need to remove outputs, you are only replacing the tant and 2 caps and they are at the top of the board. Just be careful with the bias diode and seperate board from heat sink and open like a book, plenty of room. It may be just me, but I put it back together and pull one output at a time apply new mica and thrermal compound and reinstall the output, easy to do as everything is in a sturdy position when assembled. Also less chance of a mix up if you are day dreaming or interupted.
 
Yes, Pat is right you can get away with not pulling it all the way apart. I typically will as I like to wash the heatsink off. So for me it's:

Make a sketch / shoot pics of the outputs (and which side they're on) and then unscrew them and clean them off.

Unfasten the bias device from the heatsink.

Unscrew the heatsinks and remove them - clean 'em up. One side, the left I think, are a pain to get out. You just have to move them around and find that sweet spot. Quite often I remove the lower rear standoff that's attached to the heatsink.

Now the board is free to work on. When you're done check that ground connection as it's easy to break off!

Good luck!
 
Yes the left side is the PIA. It is tight! It also has the solder joint at that shield junction.
 
(snip) I typically will as I like to wash the heatsink off. So for me it's:

Make a sketch / shoot pics of the outputs (and which side they're on) and then unscrew them and clean them off.

Unfasten the bias device from the heatsink.

Unscrew the heatsinks and remove them - clean 'em up.

I like to pull the heat sinks, wipe the grease off and then run them through the dishwasher, squeaky clean!

Tom
 
You don't have to, but I pull the heat sinks since I want to clean and regrease the outputs. I also change out the input differentials while in there since I have had a bunch of failures in the last few years.
 
Speaking of dishwashers, I have read (in AK no less) about people putting complete PC boards in the dishwasher. Supposedly just requires a thorough drying (and certain components aren't suitable for such treatment. I've not had the nerve to attempt such a dramatic approach.
 
Thanks for the support folks. Tomorrow will jump on it, today I toke the chance and replaced the original wiring on my 70's turntable, I think I do hear an improvement, but could be just placebo...

Also, surveyed all the electrolitycs on the power supply. I'll replace it next time I'm around.

As we know, believers always think they listen an improvement and skepticals never do.:D


 
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Nice job on the table:

We sold Thorens new, and 50% of the buyers got the upgrade and we would solder in the Signet phono cables.
 
Nice job on the table:

We sold Thorens new, and 50% of the buyers got the upgrade and we would solder in the Signet phono cables.

I used the canare Star quad. Used 2 inner conductors as positive signal, the other 2 as signal return and the braid shield connected to ground on the table side only. Also, a separate ground from turntable to receiver chassis, perfect!

I was advised that this cable has a very high capacitance for this application. But I really like it and ended up using it, it's only 24". The cartridge optimum load is between 200 and 300pf. I'm inside that interval, considering cables, phono stage and tone arm load all togheter.
 
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