new to me, Trio - WX-400

[The Fuxtor]

just got this baby delivered, looking very nice! I have attached a schematic for those of you who wish to check it over,
I know that all the grey electrolytics need to be changed out, but are there any other "baddies" in these units? The rectifier is already a silicon i think?? Also this sm is for the Kenwood version ( KW-70), this unit has no 4 ohm taps??? they must be slightly different...Any other advice will be greatly appriciated

 

[The Fuxtor]

ok, file to big...try this
https://drive.google.com/open?id=129OW0cB1lwIAgy1UPoc80OU3qEmjD938

 

[larryderouin]

This is the Owners manual. No schematic in it . Replace anything that looks like an electrolytic. A lot of the caps that are smaller than 1uf will probably be paper in oil's and shaped like axials. Look for Suzuki, Elna, and Nichicon's. Replace them all. Leave the ceramics alone. If you put up a picture of the bottom side with all the components showing we can see what it has and advise on what to change. Close up's of the rectifier diodes (Silicon and selenium) also.

 

[The Fuxtor]

This is the Owners manual. No schematic in it . Replace anything that looks like an electrolytic. A lot of the caps that are smaller than 1uf will probably be paper in oil's and shaped like axials. Look for Suzuki, Elna, and Nichicon's. Replace them all. Leave the ceramics alone. If you put up a picture of the bottom side with all the components showing we can see what it has and advise on what to change. Close up's of the rectifier diodes (Silicon and selenium) also.

You got to the link too quick Larry! I switched it after realizing the wrong link!
I will post a nice pic today! Thank you!

 

[The Fuxtor]

Ok, got my daughter to take a bunch of pics!! May be slightly redundant, she doesn't know what she's looking for....

 

[The Fuxtor]

This unit sure is quite the spaghetti factory.. Nothing like my old Fisher 400!

 

[The Fuxtor]

Jeez, I am going to have to open this up to verify, but in the first underside shot , say approx 2:00 on the pic looks like a grey cap that blew up?? I think it's just a shadow but it sure gives the impression of half of the caps body being missing??
EDIT
Just checked the original photo, and it is a trick of light!!

 

[s-petersen]

There are some purple caps besides the gray caps that look bad, and the large yellow one should also go The white one is also a likely bad one also. The small yellow ones in the first under shot are likely film, and may be good

 

[The Fuxtor]

There are some purple caps besides the gray caps that look bad, and the large yellow one should also go The white one is also a likely bad one also

The one purple looks in bad shape for sure... What's good for replacements?? In my old Fisher, I used a premade kit which had Sonicaps and Nichicons.. I'm gonna have to hunt through this mess and write down what to order...

 

[s-petersen]

Rubicon, Nichicon, Cornell Dubilier, Illinois Capacitor (IC) are all good caps
One can cap is 40-40-40@ 350 I can't see the other

 

[The Fuxtor]

That schematic is for a Kenwood kw-70, supposed to be the same amp with different name, but there are a few differences...
Dropping in a 120uf for that 40-40-40 is the best way to redo that?Edit:
(Need a multi section or restuff)

 

[The Fuxtor]

Also am I good to go with film caps for those small (0.047) caps? They have a line running down one side which I believe indicate "the foil"??

 

[s-petersen]

Any of the caps less than 1uf, film is a fine replacement 630v is a good voltage rating. Can you read the value of the other can cap?

 

[The Fuxtor]

I can't see it on this schematic, but I can take a look at the unit....
Edit: she's all buttoned up at the moment, but I will post tomorrow!

 

[s-petersen]

You may be able to use this in one or both of the can cap positions
https://www.parts-express.com/parts...trolytic-multi-section-can-capacitor--020-606
Change 1 at a time, take good pics of the connections before and after each replacement.
It is sometimes better to cut the old component leads and solder to them, rather than trying to unsolder the original lead, without damaging a tube socket or terminal strip

 

[The Fuxtor]

You may be able to use this in one or both of the can cap positions
https://www.parts-express.com/parts...trolytic-multi-section-can-capacitor--020-606
Change 1 at a time, take good pics of the connections before and after each replacement.
It is sometimes better to cut the old component leads and solder to them, rather than trying to unsolder the original lead, without damaging a tube socket or terminal strip

That's exactly what I was planning! There is not a ton of room in this one to fully strip out the old leads. I never knew they still made multi section cans?? Awesome link! Thanks

 

[s-petersen]

It would be awesome if the second can was a 50 @ something like 300 or higher volts and a single value

 

[The Fuxtor]

It would be awesome if the second can was a 50 @ something like 300 or higher volts and a single value

Looks that way underneath!

 

[The Fuxtor]

Where the heck do you buy new caps of these values? Digikey and Mouser are very limited in regards to the high voltage/ low uf variety...

 

[s-petersen]

.005 = .0047 in modern caps .02= .022 etc the values are close enough.