New turntable wall mount shelf

Montycat

Montycat

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It's a first version but good to go as is. My friend and I will tweak the design a bit but I like it so far. :)

The wood is a cutting board I bought a year or so ago. It's not attached and I will probably look for a slightly bigger piece that will take my Sony or Denon. As is it is perfect for the Technics.

Turntable shelf by Buhduh, on Flickr

Turntable shelf 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr

Turntable shelf 6 by Buhduh, on Flickr


Turntable shelf 9 by Buhduh, on Flickr
 
That is very very nice!
I have a wall shelf mounted which holds both receiver and TT, but I was fighting feedback issues, which are mostly solved by using some sorbothane pucks under the TT. I would suggest putting a cushion layer under the wood shelf and don't over tighten the shelf. Depending on air-borne sound, you may still need cushions under the TT!
 
Nice looking! Maybe in the plans, but I'd put adjustable spikes facing up for isolation and the ability to level the surface.
 
Montycat said:
It's a first version but good to go as is. My friend and I will tweak the design a bit but I like it so far. :)

The wood is a cutting board I bought a year or so ago. It's not attached and I will probably look for a slightly bigger piece that will take my Sony or Denon. As is it is perfect for the Technics.

Turntable shelf by Buhduh, on Flickr

Turntable shelf 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr

Turntable shelf 6 by Buhduh, on Flickr


Turntable shelf 9 by Buhduh, on Flickr
Click to expand...


Very nice! Doing the metal work yourself?

jcamero said:
Nice. Where did you find the perforated metal for the lower shelf?
Click to expand...

Certainly not the only place, but one source for perforated metal sheet is OnlineMetals.com.
 
The friend did the metal work. He used to work at a local custom fabrication shop and still has access to it sometimes. The owner is a friend of mine too and lets me use some tools (like the sand blaster) but I'm not a welder.

The perf they had lying around. We might make a fold in the next one to give it a touch more rigidity. My friend thought I was going to mount the shelf separately and lower but he had drilled an extra set of holes in the vertical bars so I mounted it as you see it.

The entire design intent was also to match my main "entertainment center" the friend built for me years ago. I'll take some pics of that later.

Thanks for the levelling suggestions. I think I can see how we would incorporate that.
 
As an engineering type of guy, I always worry about "sag-ocis", and hopefully, the welds will be all around and ground smooth (at least on the top). I also am a bit concerned about the 45° brace. I assume you put the vertical mounting holes on 16" centers so you can firmly sink some lag screws into 2 X 4 (6 for outside walls) for some real secure mounting. A fold on the perf would be really nice to add some strength to the bottom shelf which could be used to hold a phono preamp ( again, I assume).

It looks like it made from stainless steel and it would look nice with a brushed finish. I would not sandblast it as sandblasted stainless steel will grab and hold fingerprints and other human (and otherwise) body oils and fluids.

Oh, did I say......nice project!
 
WaynerN said:
As an engineering type of guy, I always worry about "sag-ocis", and hopefully, the welds will be all around and ground smooth (at least on the top). I also am a bit concerned about the 45° brace. I assume you put the vertical mounting holes on 16" centers so you can firmly sink some lag screws into 2 X 4 (6 for outside walls) for some real secure mounting. A fold on the perf would be really nice to add some strength to the bottom shelf which could be used to hold a phono preamp ( again, I assume).

It looks like it made from stainless steel and it would look nice with a brushed finish. I would not sandblast it as sandblasted stainless steel will grab and hold fingerprints and other human (and otherwise) body oils and fluids.

Oh, did I say......nice project!
Click to expand...

I share your concern about the gusset. But as long as it is welded full length and not just tacked in place, it should be fine. My bigger concern is the lower shelf. The supports under that appear to be only half the depth of the shelf, and perf sheet is not terribly rigid. I wouldn't place anything heavier than a Discwasher brush on the front half. The main frame looks like cold-rolled mild steel to me, but pics can be deceiving.
 
Yes it's just regular steel not stainless. The sandblasting comment was not in regards to this project. This might just get clear coat.

The welds are all around and smooth.

The lower shelf is only for a small preamp or brush, maybe a spare headshell. And yes I want more rigidity too though it's fine for the intended purpose. We will beef up the next one if we make another.

And yes it's on 16" centers and into the studs with #10 screws.
 
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So here is that "entertainment unit". Built with similar material and clear coated about 10 years ago roughly. Yes, there is some small evidence of rust but today I could not see any.

The visible top is 3/4 ply with a finish on it and it just sits on top with some sorbothaney foam pucks in between it and the sheet steel top.

Stereo cabinet by Buhduh, on Flickr

The doors have double folds all around so there are no sharp edges and they are pretty rigid. The hinges are just nuts and bolts and moving the nuts up and down on the threads helps to align them. The handles are made from some sink strainers I found a pile of in a thrift store.

Stereo cabinet 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr

Regrettably the inside shelves are not height adjustable. The Yamaha HTR has no feet on it as with them it would not fit...issue filed for version 2.0.

Stereo cabinet inside by Buhduh, on Flickr

We had some traditional magnetic door latches on them but I took them off and just put some rare earth magnets on the top corners. Move the doors somewhat close to each other and they gently pull and hold each other closed.

stereo cabinet door detail by Buhduh, on Flickr

Sides and back are open. I had castors in the vertical posts but they were not designed for square holes so were a bit unstable and now it is just on some furniture glides.

stereo cabinet side detail by Buhduh, on Flickr

I like the perforated doors a lot. They greatly subdue the system lights but the remote controls still work through them. My center channel speaker is behind it too and works fine that way.

stereo cabinet doors closed by Buhduh, on Flickr

Those strainers again! :)

stereo cabinet door detail 2 by Buhduh, on Flickr
 
Nice! I've heard of putting TTs on wall shelves. For about the past 30 or so years I've always had my TT on a suspension system I rigged up. My latest setup is my best. I use inner tubes for dampening and turnbuckles to keep everything level. Extreme? Maybe, but it works for me in keeping it quiet so I can enjoy my music!

IMG_1248.JPG IMG_1251.JPG IMG_1299.JPG IMG_1300.JPG
 
I recently acquired a Clearaudio Performance DC turntable and it is finicky when it comes to foot falls......I've been thinking of a wall mount but originally thought a ceiling hanging shelf would be nice. My system is in my large bedroom and I noticed the other day that when the kids came into the front door and closed the door, there was a noticeable resonance in the lp I was playing. My rack is against the outside wall of my bedroom and if you look out the window next to my rack the porch and door is right below.
My Technics sl-1600 with Stanton 681eee cart/681SE stylus was there before the Clearaudio and there was only a footfall issue when my 11 year old son walked heavily into my bedroom. It was slight and nothing like the Clearaudio with the Ortofon 2m black produces. My thoughts are that the cartridge and stylus changes are a big factor and secondary is the suspension style differences between the Technics and CA decks....the cantilever on the Stanton 681SE stylus looks like it could second as a pool cue whereas the cantilever on the Ortofon 2m black could be mistaken for a single hair off of any 90 year old balding man.....
My decision is going to be whether or not to do wall or ceiling mounted shelf......the Clearaudio feet are adjustable and I see a ceiling suspension shelf as much harder to ensure "levelness" unless I have some type of screw clamps underneath the wooden part of the shelf that can be tweaked as to find the sweet spot. I wouldn't however feel confident unless there were permanent "stops" at the bottom of the cables aside from the adjuster clamps....maybe I'm far over thinking this.....any advice, opinions, and/or was no vs are much appreciated....
 
honestabe316 said:
I recently acquired a Clearaudio Performance DC turntable and it is finicky when it comes to foot falls......I've been thinking of a wall mount but originally thought a ceiling hanging shelf would be nice. My system is in my large bedroom and I noticed the other day that when the kids came into the front door and closed the door, there was a noticeable resonance in the lp I was playing. My rack is against the outside wall of my bedroom and if you look out the window next to my rack the porch and door is right below.
My Technics sl-1600 with Stanton 681eee cart/681SE stylus was there before the Clearaudio and there was only a footfall issue when my 11 year old son walked heavily into my bedroom. It was slight and nothing like the Clearaudio with the Ortofon 2m black produces. My thoughts are that the cartridge and stylus changes are a big factor and secondary is the suspension style differences between the Technics and CA decks....the cantilever on the Stanton 681SE stylus looks like it could second as a pool cue whereas the cantilever on the Ortofon 2m black could be mistaken for a single hair off of any 90 year old balding man.....
My decision is going to be whether or not to do wall or ceiling mounted shelf......the Clearaudio feet are adjustable and I see a ceiling suspension shelf as much harder to ensure "levelness" unless I have some type of screw clamps underneath the wooden part of the shelf that can be tweaked as to find the sweet spot. I wouldn't however feel confident unless there were permanent "stops" at the bottom of the cables aside from the adjuster clamps....maybe I'm far over thinking this.....any advice, opinions, and/or was no vs are much appreciated....
Click to expand...
Keeping it level is important as I use adjustable turnbuckles on each of the four hanging points and use a bubble level on the platter while adjusting it. I have a heavy footed 18yr old who also closes doors harder than needed. We have laminated flooring through out the house and while I can feel the floor noise as he marches through I can't hear it through my cartridge. If I had a bigger room I would 4-point it from the ceiling (rafters for solid mounts) to bypass the shelves mounted to the wall. Guess I'll have to wait until someone grows up and moves out on his own.
In your situation it may be a matter of how much room you have and if you want to put the work into it or not. I didn't just slap mine together as I measured and made a list of what I would need to make it work. My shelves are mounted to the wall studs as my TT weighs quite a bit. I also had to keep mine close to my computer as I listen and record through it.
Shows my inner tube cushioned platform
End of the video show the turnbuckles I installed
 
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I still had feedback issues when I first wall mounted my TT as well. If you use a subwoofer, you will likely find the same result. I solved my feedback issues by using 2 wood bases, with cut in half racquet balls seperating them.
 
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