Now that the Antennacraft FM6 is discontinued, what's my best bet for an antenna?

Below is a simple picture of the NEC requirements for grounding an outside. Those that install an outside antenna may go from not grounding at all to meeting the NEC requirements. Some local authorities may have more stringent regulations.

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Note the requirement to connect the separate antenna ground to the AC mains service entrance ground and the use of a grounding block (with its own separate ground connection) in the antenna feed line.

The length and number of ground rods can depend on the conductivity of the the soil and one's take on risk management. The picture below shows in a generic manner how the ground (earth) resistance can very with the length of the ground rod. Note that for average soil (the dotted line) the resistance for a 4 ft ground round may be as high as 140 Ohms and drops to about 45 Ohms for an 8 ft ground rod.

Note that this is DC resistance. It becomes somewhat more involved with higher frequency currents such as the fast rise time of an lightning induced surge voltage (spike).

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When I did the grounding for the antenna, the rod is about 4 feet from the gas line, is that going to be a problem ? how far away should be the distance ?
 
When I did the grounding for the antenna, the rod is about 4 feet from the gas line, is that going to be a problem ? how far away should be the distance ?

Interesting question. In the good old days when you could expect a metal gas line, I'd have said no problem as both would be grounded. Not sure how that works with plastic or pex?

PS - my gas lines are all copper and properly grounded with several antenna grounds right in the near vicinity.

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We're putting you in for membership in the Procrastinators Club. Or at least we will when we run out of excuses for putting it off. Feel free to attend the next meeting if and when we get around to holding it ...

Good connectivity on the ground or you're wasting your time. I usually use braided 8 or 10 gauge you can buy in bulk at the hardware store, and a 4 foot grounding rod. Those come with clamps for the wire and just pound them into dirt. Strip the antenna end a few inches and wrap that around the lower mast clamp before tightening it down and yer good.

sKiZo, Please excuse what may be a dumb question as I'm just learning all this stuff about FM antennas. Are you saying that you have to ground a yagi antenna for better reception? I have a Stellar Labs 30-2460 antenna I have mounted on the roof. Do I need to ground this? I have read you don't have to ground the Yagi antennas but if it will bring better performance I will do this. I get good reception with the Stellar Labs and my Fisher KM-60 and SUMO Charlie along with my new addition of a Mitsubishi DA-F20 FM Tuner.
 
Grounding an antenna isn't necessary if you don't mind static bursts and such travelling down the cable and potentially frying your receiver. You'd be surprised how much static can be generated even on a clear day due to wind travelling over the metal elements - even worse with fiberglass. A good ground may not even give you much gain over an ungrounded antenna, but it WILL drain air static buildup and give you a cleaner signal, which translates to better listening, especially with weaker stations. And it's just common sense to add that wire if you've taken the time and effort to install an outdoor antenna.

Which reminds me - not seen here (or I missed it) is the necessity to protect the cable as well by adding an inline grounding block. That can be jumped to the main ground wire, so it's some easy cheap insurance. Most "splitters" used for ganging antennas on the same down cable also double as grounding blocks ... just look for a grounding terminal on the case.

PS ... I get a bit anal retentive about grounds here as we get some killer spring storms, not to mention it tops out at around 70 feet. I have FOUR ground wires on the BIG one, one to each corner of the building, and as a bonus, those actually provide noticeable gain in those particular bandwidths.
 
Grounding an antenna isn't necessary if you don't mind static bursts and such travelling down the cable and potentially frying your receiver. You'd be surprised how much static can be generated even on a clear day due to wind travelling over the metal elements - even worse with fiberglass. A good ground may not even give you much gain over an ungrounded antenna, but it WILL drain air static buildup and give you a cleaner signal, which translates to better listening, especially with weaker stations. And it's just common sense to add that wire if you've taken the time and effort to install an outdoor antenna.

Which reminds me - not seen here (or I missed it) is the necessity to protect the cable as well by adding an inline grounding block. That can be jumped to the main ground wire, so it's some easy cheap insurance. Most "splitters" used for ganging antennas on the same down cable also double as grounding blocks ... just look for a grounding terminal on the case.

PS ... I get a bit anal retentive about grounds here as we get some killer spring storms, not to mention it tops out at around 70 feet. I have FOUR ground wires on the BIG one, one to each corner of the building, and as a bonus, those actually provide noticeable gain in those particular bandwidths.

Ok, good to know this. I still have the cable grounding block that Directv put in when installing my satellite dishes. Since I don't use them (satellite dishes and Directv) anymore I will just use those block for the antenna cable grounding and mast grounding. It's tied to my water line outside which is copper. I have to stop off at Home Depot and get the wire. Thanks!
 
In terms of grounding in general, there are any number of ungrounded installations around and as mentioned above this can have an adverse impact on performance. But if there is an issue related to lightning induced surge damage, the insurance company may take a dim view of the installation when it comes to resolution of the claim.

It's tied to my water line outside which is copper.

It is tied to your AC mains service entrance ground?

A requirement of most local building codes and NEC (the National Electrical Code) in particular, is that all outside antenna grounds be tied to the AC mains entrance ground, although this is one of the more commonly neglected aspects of DIY outside antenna grounding, especially if the antenna is on one end of the house and the AC service mains entrance is on the other end.

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One reason for this is personal safety (for a number of technical reasons). Again, an insurance company may take a dim view if the installation does not meet code requirements.
 
In terms of grounding in general, there are any number of ungrounded installations around and as mentioned above this can have an adverse impact on performance. But if there is an issue related to lightning induced surge damage, the insurance company may take a dim view of the installation when it comes to resolution of the claim.



It is tied to your AC mains service entrance ground?

A requirement of most local building codes and NEC (the National Electrical Code) in particular, is that all outside antenna grounds be tied to the AC mains entrance ground, although this is one of the more commonly neglected aspects of DIY outside antenna grounding, especially if the antenna is on one end of the house and the AC service mains entrance is on the other end.

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One reason for this is personal safety (for a number of technical reasons). Again, an insurance company may take a dim view if the installation does not meet code requirements.

Thank You for the info. The grounding block was done by Directv, it was their install technician that put that there on the outside water faucet and again it was used when a second install technician came out a few years later and installed another dish. I'm not saying it's the correct way but wouldn't they know what California or city code is? We don't get many lightning storms here but I do want to do what is the safest way.
 
One of the reasons for the bonding together of all of the grounds is to insure that they are all at the the same electrical potential. In addition to helping in the protection of equipment it can be personal safety issue. To be clear, it is likely that there are any number of installations that are not correctly grounded that have not had any issues.

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it was their install technician that put that there on the outside water faucet[QUOTE]

From the NEC...

The grounded interior metal water piping system within 5 ft from the point of entrance into the building. Maybe this is true in your case.

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In general the NEC is the minimum requirement. Local requirements may vary, but are not usually less than the NEC requirements. Not to be political, but California is know for writing their own rules and regulations.

If you are concerned that your installation will meet the necessary codes, NEC and or local, check with your local authorities.
 
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Should I be worry about grounding the antenna close to the gas line ? Can I get the house on fire in case of lighting ?
 
93 stations on the antennacraft FM6 at 20 feet with active snowfall as I type. There are three elements that have wooden splints holding them together.
 
That is the one!
60mph winds and the antenna rotated and two elements became windswept into a v formation. Good thing the guy ropes are rated to 600 pounds strength. A few adjustments and we are back in business, with geometry regained on the elements!
 
Should I be worry about grounding the antenna close to the gas line ? Can I get the house on fire in case of lighting ?
Nobody is going to comment. Remember we have 5 percent of the worlds population and 97 percent of the worlds attorneys.
 
Hybrid antennas are usually a compromise in one way or another. VHF/UHF isn't too bad due to the fact you *can* put both sets of elements. But that doesn't look very suitable for FM. I'm almost willing to bet it has no front-to-back ratio and largely just works like a dipole vs a yagi.
absolutely correct according to antenna theory, actually a dipole may even be superior given the 3db gain, correction 2.15db gain
 
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