NS 1000 M crossover recap

Here's some 'inspiration material' :rolleyes:
Highly off topic, but click "other videos" and watch his entire 9 minute video about the bathroom sink.

It's better to not skip sections, the whole thing is incredible.
If you thought the speaker one was bad... :D
 
On the serious note: I ordered some Audyn and Mundorf PP caps a while back to recap my set with. I'm planning to have it done next month. I will do some A B testing afterwards.

About the Troel Gravesen article / blog: that is some refined marketing and it is sponsored by Jantzen caps. So not much objectivity there. There even goes a story that he is partly owner of Jantzen and that the caps are rebranded Solen caps :rolleyes:
 
So you do not miss having the L pads at all? I have a second slightly battered (cabinets) pair of NS 1000M which my son uses. I see it as driver insurance (in case) something goes pear shaped with mine. he is not driving them heavily at all. Got me thinking now...

No, but you have to be prepared to spend some time tuning the sound to your taste by adjusting resistance values. I found the recommended settings to be very dark and bass heavy so I significantly reduced the resistance in series with the tweeter and midrange and increased the resistance in parallel with the tweeter. I corresponded with Troels while doing this and he was very helpful in recommending what to alter so as not to negatively impact the crossover design.
 
Went for it yesterday. I'm not really happy with the looks, it was really hard to do it neat due to room problems and the initial design. But I think it's pretty functional. At first I used the tie-wraps temporary till the glue dried, but I decided to keep them in to be sure.

The six 3,5 uF paper in wax capacitors are a hell to take out due to that horrible glue. Btw, the glue is all over the place and it doesn't comes off the boards. I found a way to get them out pretty easy, without doing damage to the backplate. Use a tube that fits just over one of those things and start to wiggle gently. First from left to right and then back and forth. After a certain time you will notice that it becomes more loose in the socket. Then use a pipe wrench and twist in it's socket. Then it comes out pretty easy. Use the pipe wrench to soon when it isn't loose enough? Then you will find out they are paper in wax capacitors :)

  • For the woofers (C-1) used 2x Audyn Q4 MKP of 47 uF each. They are pretty large, but it fits.
  • For C-2 of the mid range I used 2x Audyn Q4S MKP of 10 uF and 1x Audyn Q4 MKP of 1 uF in parallel to come to 21 uF
  • For C-3 of the mid range I used 3x Audyn Q4 MKP in parallel: 2x 1 uF and 1x 1,5 uF to come to 3,5 uF.
  • For the tweeter (C-4) I used 1x Mundorf MCap MKP of 2,7 uF.
All are PP caps and I ordered them a long time ago. I would've used other caps I think, with today's knowledge. But I think they won't harm the NS-1000M's.

I also upgraded the binding posts tot banana posts and upgraded the input wires from the binding posts to the boards with some heavy duty BICC silver plated 19 strand hook-up wires.

All was soldered with silver solder.

IMG_6443.JPG IMG_6444.JPG IMG_6435.JPG IMG_6440.JPG IMG_6441.JPG

At first I did some A / B listening between left (recapped) and right (stock). I'm not sure whether I believe in the myth of 'breaking in' caps, but it sounded better already. But, very small differences. A bit more clarity in high and the bass seems a bit more tight.

Now they are both done and I have to do some more listening, but I'm pretty happy so far :thumbsup:
 
Try a Vishay MKP1837 / 0,01uF / 100VDC across the large caps that are in the direct signal path.
I didn't believe it myself before doing it, but it does elevate transparency, clarity and detail as mentioned elsewhere :)
Having done several speaker recaps.... it takes easily over 100hrs of playing before the caps settle in. With very awkward moodswings in the middle (or was that me?)
 
To echo what Oilmaster said - I've found the same thing with brand new speakers, no doubt mostly due to the caps.

I've bought the same sets 12 months apart and been unhappy with the new ones (swapped into the same location) until they had their ~100hrs of use, after this they sounded the same. I found it's better to leave them playing while away from the house etc (if trying to A/B) because you'll notice a more defined change. Accurately tracking slow changes over long time periods is not something humans are great at unfortunately (at least not this one :D ).
 
To echo what Oilmaster said - I've found the same thing with brand new speakers, no doubt mostly due to the caps.

I've bought the same sets 12 months apart and been unhappy with the new ones (swapped into the same location) until they had their ~100hrs of use, after this they sounded the same. I found it's better to leave them playing while away from the house etc (if trying to A/B) because you'll notice a more defined change. Accurately tracking slow changes over long time periods is not something humans are great at unfortunately (at least not this one :D ).

I'm not sure whether I trust the B-2 playing when not at home :D
 
Here's some 'inspiration material' :rolleyes:


At first I thought it was a joke, but I think this guy is for real :eek:

Forget the juggling, he may as well have just hammered them back in there. And the grinder?! Is it really that difficult to free a row of caps from the base?
 
So, Mr. Yamaha, it makes sense to change the factory caps to new MKPs? Is the sound now, after many hours of continuous listening, better and better?
What do you think about ClarityCap ESA capacitors for NS-1000M crossovers?
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/claritycap_esa.html

In intend to use only for tweeter (2.7 microF) and midrange (22 microF) ESA or SA (they have now a brand new series CSA!).
As for parallel caps:
- for midrange Jantzen CrossCap MKP 3.6 microF;
- for bass drivers Mundorf E-cap 47 microF PLAIN or RAW.
Maybe the signal caps will be shunted by a small 0.01 microF, as suggested by Oilmaster.

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/ca...dc-claritycap-range-polypropylene-p-7309.html
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/ca...dc-claritycap-range-polypropylene-p-7317.html
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/001-0244-3-6uF-400v-jantzen-cross-cap.html
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/mcap_bipolar.html
 
While awaiting Mr. Yamaha's reply, I can hereby give you some feedback on some of the mentioned caps.

I installed some Clarity ESA in the tweeter circuits of Sony APM-33 and SS-X300, and they are quite clear and bright. In the first 50 hours a lot of SSS-ing and ISH-ing, afterwards they get tight(er). Not the best cap for a fast tweeter (when in the signal path), but they give a very spatial and airy sound that you may like (with a Vishay MKP1837 10nF bypass).

ClarityCap SA and Jantzen CrossCap are excellent low cost caps for anything parallel with the driver, but I wouldn't use them in series with the driver. Both have a certain darkening colouring effect (which some actually do like), and a little slow-ish when in series with the driver.

From that point of view, the new ClarityCap CSA may be the thing to try while maintaining a tight budget.

By any means, and when budget is not a problem, the ClarityCap MR/CMR are really good caps.
Don't rule out the classic Mundorf Supreme either for tweeters; a very decent choice.

Audyn Cap MKP plus is also a very good medium/woofer cap for medium budget projects.

yeah.... just got another box of 180 euros in speaker filter parts last weekend....money goes really fast in this chain's tail end :oops:
 
Just wanted to add some pics of a recent NS-1000M recap. I used all Audyn Q4 caps as I have very good experiences with them.
It was kind of tricky to mount the large, twin 47uf bad boys, but it was possible and the crossovers fit back into their spot.

Disclaimer: they're not my speakers and I won't be able to chime in on any sonic differences. However, I've used the Audyn Q4 caps on several of my own speakers in the past and each time noticed an improvement. I will echo that new caps need at least 50 to 100 hours of burn in until they 'settle'.























 
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