1. Time for some upgrades in server hardware and software to enhance security and take AK to the next level. Please contribute what you can to sales@audiokarma.org at PayPal.com - Thanks from the AK Team
    Dismiss Notice

Older German console with Fisher Sonic? or I have no idea what im doing

Discussion in 'Tube Audio' started by secondslc, Nov 28, 2008.

  1. gourmet

    gourmet Integrated Player

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Berlin
    ...

    8.68 = August 1968
    9.68 = September 1968

    enjoy!

    gourmet:music:

    p.s.: these elyts/caps should definately be replaced after 40years... the 50uF+50uF cap is quite common inside german tube stuff of this vintage
    Pol am Gehäuse= case is the common negative.
     

     

    Please register to disable this ad.

  2. steerpike2

    steerpike2 Super Member

    Messages:
    3,318
    Location:
    Transvaal, South Africa
    It looks magnificent!

    >> ECC85, probably FM RF amp. Its a dual triode.
    >> ECH81, pentode/triode probably FM mixer
    >> EAF801, pentode / dual diode. FM detector possibly?

    I'd like to differ slightly here:
    ECC85 = FM oscillator, Rf amp and mixer.
    ECH81 = triode + hexode = AM oscillator & mixer
    EAF801 = AM If amp and detector - maybe first FM IF amp too.

    The FM If might be germanium transistors, and the FM detector mosst certainly is - no double diodes in that line up.
    FM stereo detector - if present (which is likely since there is an MX tuning eye) - probably transistorised too.

    Single ended EL84s can sound very good.
     
  3. Tube Radio

    Tube Radio Super Member

    Messages:
    3,469
    In addition to the capacitors replace all out of tolerance resistors as well. ON the back of the speaker magnets it has RFT om them. Replace the capacitor going to the tweeter and sound may improve.
     
  4. secondslc

    secondslc mmmmmarantz

    Messages:
    971
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    Ok, so the paper caps I can replace with? The 50+50 I can replace with? Are these all bipolar or polarized?

    On those large cans, am I sticking with 775 volts?

    So lost, but thanks for all the help so far!!!
     
  5. gadget73

    gadget73 junk junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    36,579
    Location:
    Southern NJ
    47 uf / 500v electrolytics for each section of the can cap. These are polarized.
    The one smaller electrolytic I see is a 10 uf 275v. You can go higher with voltage if needed, just don't go lower.

    paper caps you'd have to check their value to determine a replacement. Its probably marked on there. 630 volt caps will do the job, but the capacitence you'll need off the original part or from the schematic.
     
  6. TheRed1

    TheRed1 Console Conservationist

    Messages:
    2,135
    Location:
    Virginia
    You have a very appealing and very intriguing console. I was skeptical that the US was trading directly with East Germany in the early 60s. 1967, however, seems somewhat more plausible. When I did various Google searches to see what I could find out about Koronette consoles, most of the results were from Canada or in the US but close to the Canadian border. Might I ask where this console was purchased?

    As I understand it, Rema was the East German manufacturer of the chassis; RFK, also East German, made the speakers; and the cabinet was assembled by Koronette (also East German?) who tossed in a BSR turntable from England. Is this correct?

    Amazingly elegant styling for a product of this period from behind the Iron Curtain. Among the literature you found is there a Koronette catalog?

    Excellent pictures, by the way.
     

     

    Please register to disable this ad.

  7. secondslc

    secondslc mmmmmarantz

    Messages:
    971
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    Thanks for the compliments!

    The console was bought on the south side of chicago at a place called "Inland Furniture".

    Yeah, being off on the date makes a difference during the East Germany time. You seem to be correct about manufacturers for everything. I have no Koronette catalog, just that literature on operating instructions.
    [​IMG]

    There are 10 caps per board that the output tubes go on that I would like to replace, 3 are in aluminum cans, and the rest are in paper cans, I can show the pic again at the end. I was wondering if anybody could provide a place that sells replacements for al these, and what the values are based on the vague writings? The schematic is not of much help as there are cap pictures with no values. I will be literal on what they say. The first three are the metal canned ones. The paper canned ones do not have a plus sign, rather they have a red band around one end, what does that mean?

    (1) Frolyt
    Elyt 10/25
    665
    TGL7198

    (2) Frolyt
    Elyt 100/25
    665
    TGL7198

    (3) Elyt 10uF (I know that one)
    250/275V-/665
    TGL 7199

    (4)(5)(6)(8)(9)(10) I know, except the voltage reads 630- on some.

    (7) 100/250 is all I can read

    Paper caps are the golden looking ones?
    [​IMG]


    Last thing...I still dont get how the big filter caps work. Are they two 50uF caps in one can in parallel? If anybody can provide a link for replacement, that would get me started....Sorry to sound so dumb on all this, but marantz solid state gear is amazingly easy to work on compared to a poorly documentated 40 year old unit.

    Oh, and I never put a pic of it closed up...Since people are so interested in its looks.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Thespeakerdude8

    Thespeakerdude8 Super Member

    Messages:
    2,031
    The filter caps are just two caps in one to save space. They have two lugs on the bottom and the can is common ground. You will see something like

    Transformer---Rectifier---First 50uf cap---Power resistor---Second 50 uf cap.

    Just your standard RC filter network. the 10uf/250 appears to be 250v.

    10/25 is 10uf 25v
    100/25 is 100uf 25v


    Old caps are usually marked this way. The coupling caps may say something like .02MF or some number like 221k ( that is more modern though.)

    Red band around one end I would imagine means positive, but just to be sure stick a mulitmeter between the end you think is ground and ground and do a continuity test. Then, you will know which way the cap goes . I've taken a little german if you need a little help translating :thmbsp:
     
  9. Patrice B

    Patrice B AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,222
    Location:
    Montréal, Canada
    To secondslc:

    Hello,

    I have a 2070 HF I want to rebuild (at least the preamp/poweramp section) but I don't have any schematic to follow... It was available cheap but missing all tubes, buttons and with some snipped wires and missing pieces.

    By any chance, do you have an electronic copy of the schematic?

    Thanks.

    Patrice

    BTW, your PM box is full...
     
  10. the_nines

    the_nines AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    18,908
    Location:
    Montreal
    @secondslc

    Your unit is in beautiful shape. Gorgeous is the word, actually. :thumbsup:

    I am restoring the exact same one for my parents. My father had bought it new in ~1967 (I think).

    I have to replace the record player (changer) because the original one is long gone. I have managed to find a Dual 1226. I am in the process of tweaking the base for the three suspension springs for a nice fit.

    I don't mean to hi-jack your thread, but I thought I was the only person in the world to actually have one of these.

    I am missing the radio knobs (vol, bal, bass, treble) but I think I should be able to find something comparable.

    Again, looking at your unit brought me back many decades ago and made me rush over to my parents' place to do the right thing and restore it. I'll post a pic or two when I get a chance.

    Cheers!

    :)
     
  11. GregBilodeau

    GregBilodeau AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    66
    Location:
    Edmonton, AB Canada
    I have restored a couple of these over the years and have found the following. Cleaning the switches clears up a lot of issues. It will need all new capacitors for sure. The resistors they used were really good and rarely need to be replaced. Your multiplex adapter for stereo is missing or was never purchased, see the big empty plug next to the tuner. They sound really nice when rebuilt properly.
    Have fun with your project!

    Gregb
     

     

    Please register to disable this ad.

  12. Djcoolray

    Djcoolray Addicted Member

    Messages:
    6,370
    Location:
    A rocks throw from JBLM !!!!
    Yah, like wow !!!
     

Share This Page