Discussion in 'Infinity Loudspeakers' started by 7.62, Feb 3, 2017.
Nice setup ! Michael's also....Wow.
That's fair. I'm usually a one-step-at-a-time guy too.
Down the road it would be worth it to do a re-cap. I will be re-capping my QLS-2s this spring/summer. I will post the results.
Take your time and enjoy your newfound treasures.
I gotta admit, recapping the Q1's was no trivial feat, so I can't blame the OP one bit for not wanting to dive right into the task. I didn't remove mine from the base (I couldn't compete with the tweaker at Infinity who had the staple gun), so the surgery was a little tight and maybe harder than it had to be. But even if I had removed the networks to make access easier, the whole process of disassembling the speakers and going through the pots (gotta do that while you're in there) was time consuming and borderline tedious. I'll be just fine if I never have to do that again. Don't get me wrong, it was worth it...but I doubt I would've heard the improvement (mostly in the mids and highs) had I not put such a concerted effort into improving my room acoustics.
Congrats on having a great set of speakers. Glad you got them.
Thanks Buck, I think the tweeker took the day when these were passing thru LOL. He was definitely on station with some 2.5's I had.
I too restored a pair of the QLS 1s. I originally planned to go active, made a custom backplate to keep the original crossovers external for easy experimentaion, rebuilt the passive xovers, then went back to passive b4 finishing my grand project of active.
Anyway, I reflowed solder on a couple of non working tweets, but after using for a few months, others failed as well. I should have reflowed them all, but got lazy. 2 weeks ago, I pulled and reflowed every one of them for good measure and all are now working. Once you do a couple using the jig method, it goes along pretty well. Probably took 3 to 4 hours to do them all. I also had a couple mids with broken wires. A gracious member repaired a couple for me, the I opened one myself and repaired another. I also rebuilt the crossovers and reoriented things as shown in the pics in my thread here.
Congrats on acquiring some great ones!
Hey Thanks rpampt, I just tested mine with a Christmas wrapper cardboard tube, don't know if I'm just lucky but all of my emits are emitting and all of my mids are perfect. Just waiting for a refoam kit and then going to rotate mine out and get into the recap and cleaning all of the pots....etc.
I've been soaking up all the info that's been posted over the years, there's no better resource that I can find Thanks to the generous members of this forum.
I finally re upped membership as a way of saying Thank you to Audiokarma and all of the great people here.
7.62, all of my EMITs were "working" too, that is they all made sound but, once I went through and reflowed all the soldier points, suddenly the image sharpened up! That's when I really began to appreciate the quality of these speakers.
I'm with ya chef. Some of mine that were working, weren't putting out fully until the reflow!
If you check them with a meter you may see some which are like 12ohm or more and should be 5ohm. The ones which are higher will not be as load.
Alright this might be completely out of line, mine have never been touched with any tools that I can tell and I'm definitely going anal here. What tool, wrench did you guys use that left no markings whatsoever on the screws that mount the Emits.
I have plenty of nut drivers but I'm so very reluctant to leave any evidence that they've been messed with. I have 1/4 from lowes but they still have a bit of slop...?
Nut driver and didn't notice any scars. But wasn't looking too hard.
FWIW, the tweeter array(in total) should measure around 2.9 ohms.
Great point, just pull the woofer, remove the clips and check them. Also Chef free has a method of reflowing the tweeter solder buttons without removing the array. See post 53...
Just thought I'd share Hurky Buttons favorite place for napping. He sure loves the Jazz and the QLS-1'S.
Maybe try scotch tape over the hex and Phillips heads.
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