Onkyo M504 S702 Speaker 2 Switch cleaning/replacement?

jd3rdcoast

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Hi all;

Got a nice Onkyo M504 that the Speaker 2 Switch (S702) will not keep contact to keep the relay tripped so I am getting intermittent output on Speaker 2 outputs. Speaker 1 works fine. I ohm'd out the switch and seems the problem is there because keeps opening even without power applied to unit. I was able to get some deoxit into it followed by fader lube and seemed to solve the problem. But by time all back together and a day later, same thing occurring just not as bad but still intermittent unless hit it several times.

Wondering if I should keep hitting it or try to replace? Does not look like comes apart like some of the older switched. It's a small black box.

SM calls out NPS-222, L506 as description. But nothing else and don't get hits on google search our Mouser.

Anyone ever replaced this switch?
 
Hi all;

Got a nice Onkyo M504 that the Speaker 2 Switch (S702) will not keep contact to keep the relay tripped so I am getting intermittent output on Speaker 2 outputs. Speaker 1 works fine. I ohm'd out the switch and seems the problem is there because keeps opening even without power applied to unit. I was able to get some deoxit into it followed by fader lube and seemed to solve the problem. But by time all back together and a day later, same thing occurring just not as bad but still intermittent unless hit it several times.

Wondering if I should keep hitting it or try to replace? Does not look like comes apart like some of the older switched. It's a small black box.

SM calls out NPS-222, L506 as description. But nothing else and don't get hits on google search our Mouser.

Anyone ever replaced this switch?
I have a much lesser issue on my M-504 and my M-508, but it's just the light that trips on and off (doesn't make connection) on my Speaker 2 switch. Let me know what you come up with,
 
Check the solder connections for broken joints. If those are good, maybe take the switch out and disassemble it for cleaning.
 
I have a much lesser issue on my M-504 and my M-508, but it's just the light that trips on and off (doesn't make connection) on my Speaker 2 switch. Let me know what you come up with,
Could be the switch. I took my bad one apart and the contacts were pitted. Of course The micro spring went “poof” and disappeared. I don’t think I could have cleaned them and got back together anyway. Lol. I got couple of switches from Mouser to try. Will post info up separately on how it turns out.
 
Check the solder connections for broken joints. If those are good, maybe take the switch out and disassemble it for cleaning.
I checked and solder looked good. Re-flowed both ends of cable. But issue seems inside the switch based on continuity across the pins. I removed the bad one and opened up. The contacts were pitted. And then lost the spring. See post on replacements process. Thanks for input.
 
So after removing and confirming poor continuity between the pins and opening the bad switch found pitted corroded contacts. Then lost the micro spring. Don’t think I could have got it back together anyway. I ordered two sets of switches from Mouser. One of these should work. The biggest issue was finding one tall enough for the plunger to reach the switch button connecting rod

Here is what I ordered:

Panasonic 667-ESB-30B103. H 12.5mm. This one I knew would probably be too short. Another problem is the plunger is not centered. It is about 1mm offset and a small tab at base of plunger collar.

C&K 611-PVA2EEH21.7NV2 H 23mm. 100mA 32V. This one has the best potential here. Is tall enough. But the tabs the hold it together are wider then the bracket space it needs to fit into. So I am planning to cut the bracket to allow the plunger collarbit to fit flush inside the cutout. Since it is soldered the the board then bracket sits on top. I believe that won’t be an issue.

Pics of Switches and bracket. The middle one is original which I plan on replacing as well. Even though functional its action feels a bit crusty like the bad one. The open slot with black mark is original location. Will post up as I mod the bracket and verify this works.

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Switches installed and both Speaker 1 & 2 working perfectly. Will do alignment and install LED’s coming from DWOJO and hopefully button this one up.
0C0C4136-3DC4-42BB-8790-0BF00FB81658.jpeg 9F9DACEE-A7C4-414F-B946-58A1D8AEB20A.jpeg 35EEF9D5-7438-4B89-A49B-F0415A499C47.jpeg
 
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Installed new Green LED’s, also added a strip of heavy vellum used in Marantz 22xx applications to top of meter box for additional light diffusion. It already had an opaque top but the vellum added an extra sense of smooth light. Zero hot spots to the naked eye. Nice and bright for suit. But not too bright.
8AA1349D-63DA-4341-859B-702D65E44865.jpeg 61E2A468-B914-4935-B584-89DCB23CA4D0.jpeg
 
jd3rdcoast thanks for the help with my m-504 b switch had same problem I contacted you a few weeks ago I ordered switches started today at 5pm its 7pm patient is out of surgery and look like she has made a 100% recovery works prefect used a file to modify bracket for switches. Thanks Again Eric
 
jd3rdcoast thanks for the help with my m-504 b switch had same problem I contacted you a few weeks ago I ordered switches started today at 5pm its 7pm patient is out of surgery and look like she has made a 100% recovery works prefect used a file to modify bracket for switches. Thanks Again Eric
Happy to hear my method assisted you in a positive outcome. Congratulations. Now celebrate and crank it up.
:beerchug:
 
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