Options for extending Wi-Fi signal?

[roger2]

I am looking to extend a WiFi signal to a location approximately 80 feet from its source. I am in a 3-unit apartment building where two apartments are close to each other but somewhat remote from mine. The goal is to provide Netflix to the tenants in those 80-feet-away apartments, neither of which has internet.

Would I be better off by simply boosting the signal strength of my modem/router/wifi device OR by using some type of hardware that would re-produce the signal near to the other apartments?

My modem/router/wifi device is a Motorola SBG6580. It has 4x RJ45 outlet jacks, three of which are available. So it would be possible to run a wire to the remote location if necessary. Not that I am eager to be pulling a wire through 3 non-contiguous attic spaces in this old house

At this point I am just curious to know what options are available, as I suspect there is more than one way to do this. What are the options here ?

TIA...

 

[RichPA]

Here are your options:

- more powerful router
- router plus wifi extenders
- mesh network (Orbi, Google WiFi, etc.)
- ethernet cable

80 feet through multiple walls, a couple of which are (I hope) firewalls, even in an old building is a long way to extend a wifi signal strong enough for video streaming. I haven't found it easy to get a wifi signal strong enough for music streaming from one end of my house to the other (about 60'). Like you (I'm guessing) I'm not able to locate the modem centrally.

Then of course there are the terms of your Netflix contract ...

 

[DES-1]

Consumer grade combo units suck. To share among 3 apartments you probably want a small office mesh system or grow your own like I did. After getting a solid modem and router, I have had zero resets or reboots in over a year. Wired repeaters are alway best but mesh system repeaters will work wirelessly until you want to wire the 'backhaul' to the main unit.

What I did was ditch the combo device a modem/router/wifi, imo consumer grade kid stuff. I finally clued in and bought discrete devices, the best surfboard modem (at the time) with a single port, router Linksys LRT214 (or 224 if you have to 2 LAN connections), 1 Apple Airport Extreme, and a couple of Airport Express. Install the Express units as extensions of the Extreme, placed within range but a distance away, to boost the signal. They'll do this wirelessly. Suggest you use the Airport utility app on your phone for easy setup. When you get ambitious, you can connect them via Cat6 cable for better/faster signal extension. If you need more wired ports, just add a quality gigabit hub by plugging into the router.

 

[Bob]

repeaters, signal boosters, more directional capable modem/routers.

or slave "remoter" routers. at access point and major cable-modem/router, use
Ethernet ports foe several long wired runs to near the desired remote points,
then hookup slave units (these are actual wifi devices just used as a downstream
unit) with antennae point to the remote sites.

or if electrically allowable - use power line units

 

[roger2]

Hey everybody thanks for your replies

Now I need to go do some research on the various options mentioned here.

 

[Chip Chester]

They've covered it. That said, the time you spend installing wired will pay off in uptime, especially for streaming video. Sometimes 'cutting the cord' begins with installing one. Who knew?

Chip

 

[whoaru99]

...
What I did was ditch the combo device a modem/router/wifi, imo consumer grade kid stuff. I finally clued in and bought discrete devices, the best surfboard modem (at the time) with a single port, router Linksys LRT214 (or 224 if you have to 2 LAN connections), 1 Apple Airport Extreme, and a couple of Airport Express. Install the Express units as extensions of the Extreme, placed within range but a distance away, to boost the signal. They'll do this wirelessly. Suggest you use the Airport utility app on your phone for easy setup. When you get ambitious, you can connect them via Cat6 cable for better/faster signal extension. If you need more wired ports, just add a quality gigabit hub by plugging into the router.

The LRT214 looks interesting, so I found an open box unit online and ordered it.

I have a separate 16x4 cable modem and an Netgear R7000 WiFi router. The combo works very well, in general, but the VPN support in the R7000 isn't great. It works, but not the most secure.

I'll connect the LRT214 as the router and also run VPN through that, then change the R7000 to just an AP.

BTW, I host a WiFi connection a few hundred feet to my mother's place from where I used to live (but still own). The link speed generally shows 36-48 Mbps, although at worst she usually just browses a little on the web and at best just sends/receives email. No heavy streaming.

 

[Wildcat]

Consumer grade combo units suck.

Yep. Consumer grade anything sucks for WiFi.

I just redid my entire network with enterprise-grade equipment. I get a way better WiFi signal now with a single access point than I ever did running two or more consumer products. I get a good signal strength reading out in my backyard, and the signal goes through two thick walls to get there. I am not even running it at maximum power either. (Unlike consumer "toys," everything is configurable on pro-level equipment.)

@whoaru99 This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRO512 It's mounted in a spare bedroom approximately in the middle of the house, way up high on the wall. Connects to any available Ethernet port.

 

[HTHMAN]

You really can not boost the signal (maybe a router with a better antenna will help a little) but you can repeat it. I used an Amped repeater to get the signal to a higher floor at the other end of the house and it worked great. Something like 1 or 2 of these should work or maybe even the smaller models.
https://www.amazon.com/Amped-REC33A...qid=1517023464&sr=8-7&keywords=amped+repeater
Another option depending on your wiring is a powerline adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Power...1517023592&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+ethernet

 

[Wildcat]

Those are ones that have been hijacked and hacked. https://www.computerworld.com/article/3182433/security/ubiquiti-called-out-for-security-flaw.html They don't seem to fix bugs in their units fast enough for me. Only takes once.

I keep tabs on things like this.

Old news. Already patched for affected units. And my models are not affected. I keep up on this stuff too, y'know. No FUD here.

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/airMA...lnerability-Issue-Update-3-18-17/td-p/1869309

1. UniFi, EdgeMAX and AmpliFi are not affected. This issue is limited to AirOS and associated products (toughswitch,airgateway,etc)​

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/airMAX-General-Discussion/Unpatched-hole-in-AirOS/m-p/1871017#M60892

Summary:

• UniFi never impacted
• EdgeMAX never impacted
• airMAX AC patched months before, stable release out also months before.
• airMAX 11n and associated patched months before, soaking in testing. Triaged and released to stable day after that posting.

 

[whoaru99]

@Wildcat

My consumer grade R7000 seems to work just fine. I have no problems with signal strength and full speed on wireless connection, 65Mbps down, 6.5Mbps up, on a 60/6 plan. No need to change the wireless side of things here.

The other speed I mentioned is between two houses on opposite sides of a block. One end of the link being an (relatively speaking) ancient WRT54G. It's actually quite good performance at that distance, considering.

 

[roger2]

Ahhh lots of good new additions to the thread...


First off, could someone clarify one point. There have been references to "consumer grade", "kid stuff", etc. So please just tell me, is the Motorola SBG6580 junk?


Presently, the Motorola SBG6580 is about 12' from my Roku box and Netflix seems to be working fine. But I have only watched maybe a couple hours of it so far. The Motorola SBG6580 is rated for 300Mbps, my connection is rated at 60Mbps (I believe), and Netflix can operate with as little as 10Mbps (also, qualified with 'I believe').

The target area for which I want to have wifi coverage is about 80 feet from the Motorola SBG6580. The two TV's targeted for Netflix streaming are only about 25 from each other. I am leaning towards running a wire from my current Motorola SBG6580 to a point in the attic above and between these two TV's, meaning that the the repeater would be approximately 18-ish feet from each TV (12.5' horizontally and accounting for vertical difference).

Given this scenario, would a 2nd Motorola SBG6580, acting as a repeater and fed by Cat5 from the first SBG6580, do the job of streaming Netflix to the two additional TVs?



@Wildcat I have been reading, with interest, the recent thread where you discuss the Amplifi device with amb3cog. And I am impressed. I have two concerns about using a wifi repeater
(1) it would be receiving signal via wifi vs wire, meaning that the first wifi signal on my final system would be streaming 3 separate Netflix channels simultaneously. Maybe this isn't an issue, I don't know?
(2) I don't need broad area coverage. The target area is not very large, as mentioned above the two remotely located TV's are only about 25' apart, and that area happens to be 80 feet from the internet connection and the first wifi device. Si I need wifi signal to cover two relatively small areas that are 80 feet apart, but what is in between does not need to be served with wifi.


@HTHMAN Interesting links. I checked out both of the devices you linked and they seem like viable options. At the moment though, I am leaning towards just running the wire as (likely) the best long term solution.

 

[whoaru99]

@roger2

You certainly wouldn't need another cable modem/router combo unit to cascade routers to extend the WiFi coverage. A 2nd WiFi router without the cable modem stuff would be fine.

Basically, it'd be something like this (for discussion using the common IP addressing for home LAN side, and examples for SSID and password)

Main modem/router/WiFi LAN:

IP: 192.168.1.1
Subnet: 255.255.255.0
DHCP: on/enabled
DHCP Range: 192.168.1.100 - 192.168.1.254
WiFi SSID: mynetwork
WiFi Channel: 1
Security: WPA2-AES
Password: mypassword


2nd WiFi Router:

DHCP: off/disabled
IP address: 192.168.1.2
Subnet: 255.255.255.0
WiFi SSID: same as main
WiFi channel: 11
Security: same as main
Password: same as main

Then, run the Ethernet cable from one of the LAN ports on the main router to one of the LAN (not WAN) port on the 2nd router.

 

[HTHMAN]

@HTHMAN Interesting links. I checked out both of the devices you linked and they seem like viable options. At the moment though, I am leaning towards just running the wire as (likely) the best long term solution.

Certainly the wired solution is the best and cheapest if you have access to the area to run the wires. No loss, no interference and the ability for them to add their own modem if they desire wireless. The other options are solutions for finished areas and multiple floors.

 

[Sansui77]

You could bridge 2 routers wirelessly (wired is preferred). I have done this and it works like a charm with no black spots. If you are bridging between them (wireless), you need to configure them wired next to each other first.

 

[roger2]

@Sansui77 Thanks for posting. What software did you use to make that drawing?


To everyone....

I need to take a break from this project, and this thread, as something more urgent has popped up.

I also need some time to catch up on my end, especially with terminology. Concepts seem simple enough. But terms for various types of hardware have me confused at the moment. I actually have certifications from CompTIA i.e. Network+ and Security+, so I am familiar with the term "router" for example. But my certifications were done in 2009, and with the (I assume) increase in wifi on a consumer level over the past few years, I am wondering if the term router, in the context of wifi today, is somewhat different than what I learned 9 years ago in the context of wired networks. I am also fuzzy on 'repeater', 'extender' (seems they should be the same thing to me), 'access point' etc. Anyway, I need to take some time to sort that out.

A further complication is that I am also considering wireless surveillance cameras and need to do some research on how to possibly connect those over wifi.

So, thanks to everyone. Your input has given me a great start and I now know what I need to do on my end. At this point in time I am not able to articulate appropriate follow-up questions. But....as Arnold said..."I'll be back". In this case, with a new thread in a week or so. Hopefully you all will participate in that new thread

 

[SolderIron]

If you are bridging between them (wireless), you need to configure them wired next to each other first. View attachment 1099328

You mean 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.2 ?

 

[Sansui77]

You mean 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.1.2 ?

That's correct.

I currently have mine bridged between both routers but because router number 1 has direct connection to line in, for devices connected to router number 2 (192.168.1.2) I would highly recommend cat5e ethernet cable between them both for faster transfers and reliability.

You can also have 2 different networks if you like, router 1 (network ###) & router 2 with a different network name.

My issue at the time was, my IP provider only supplied a cheap netcomm Wi-Fi router pre-configured (sucks) and it's Wi-Fi range is not that crash hot. That router connects to a htpc but the other htpc in the other main room was too far for Wi-Fi coverage. If you have multiple users using Wi-Fi, it lags and that's why direct connection is better for both my htpc's. You can also use your no.2 router as an extender if you wish.

 

[whoaru99]

Personally, I suggest keeping it all one network for simplicity.

If one is worried these folks are going to mess around inside the network then you probably shouldn't be hosting them anyway.

 

[Bill Ferris]

Ok folks, I`m no expert on any of this, however I have excellent WiFi range and data throughput here in my house from one end to the other through multiple walls & a metal roof for a distance of ~ 60 ft. with dual bands, by merely elevating ~7 ft. my (specifically chosen for it`s external ant.) wireless AP on top of my book case( which by doing so, is called "height gain" in the RF world).

And have helped friend`s over the past few years with their WiFi difficulties(extended their range) by doing the same elevating their modem/WiFi equipment where practical first, before pursuing more complicated/expensive methods.

I have, when chosen, to purchase the only 2 WiFi AP units I`ve ever purchased, to have not only external ant/s. but also that their replaceable, so I can inexpensively upgrade them with higher gain 3~9dbi aftermarket ones if needed.

Choosing the highest selectable channel number in the device`s setup can often help in a high density WiFi area for better range and data throughput, as well.

Just a inexpensive & often very easy peasy suggestion folks, FWIW.

Carry on, OKB