Out with the tubes, and in with the SS

Flat response is overrated. What should matter most is if the music moves your soul or not, not your analytical brain.
Not true. Flat response is the first and necessary step, and the foundation to, you got it, DYNAMIC response. My soul lives between the two. No reason to get dressed up if you got no place to go. An opinion.
 
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Much like others to be considered. And I am happy to provide it for you. You are welcome. Do you too have opinions?
quiet, I apologize to you for that rather snarky reply. I try not to be rude but sometimes it slips right through. Your opinion is welcome of course. I promise to keep any communication civil between us. :)
 
quiet, I apologize to you for that rather snarky reply. I try not to be rude but sometimes it slips right through. Your opinion is welcome of course. I promise to keep any communication civil between us. :)
Thank you but no apology warranted, you mean no malice. I got no goats and I got no buttons, so by all means please make with the humor, whatever it maybe. I'm glad to see my opinion was worth a response and didn't suffer neglect. With 7,000 post to your credit I look forward to and will consider and value any opinion you offer. I have few options for gathering info you and others like you willingly provide here. But I still think it is nice to have a flat table from which to jump. Your student , QUIET
 
AK members have questioned the use of the add on horns.
THe horns are always parked on top of the speakers, but they are not always connected. Additionally, they run the mids and high from the Cornwalls and not in addition to the Cornwalls. It is a matter of whether I want to hear the smaller horn of the Cornwalls or the larger Altec horn...they are mutually exclusive. I literally unscrew the compression driver and screw it onto whatever horn I want to hear, but there is only ever one set of horns playing. Like I said, though, the Altecs live on top of the Cornwalls.
 
damacman said:
The OP simply has different needs than what a 40wpc power amplifier can deliver - hence my recommendation above.
This^^^. I have heard and can appreciate the reproduction of details and the musicality of the tube set up. I will set up the tube gear elsewhere in the house - that will be my '59 Cadillac. In my day to day listening room, I listen to loud and complex music, and I have a demanding "ear". I want to experience everything from 8Hz up to however high I can hear. Playing an arpeggio going from 60 Hz to 8 Hz on a pipe organ requires brutal power and stamina that the '59 Cadillac set-up just cannot offer....I need something more like Farmtruck for that. Something like a pile of Crown amps tall enough to sit on..
Farmtruck-wheelie-Street-Outlaws.jpg
79072_Front_3-4_Web.jpg
 
This^^^. I have heard and can appreciate the reproduction of details and the musicality of the tube set up. I will set up the tube gear elsewhere in the house - that will be my '59 Cadillac. In my day to day listening room, I listen to loud and complex music, and I have a demanding "ear". I want to experience everything from 8Hz up to however high I can hear. Playing an arpeggio going from 60 Hz to 8 Hz on a pipe organ requires brutal power and stamina that the '59 Cadillac set-up just cannot offer....I need something more like Farmtruck for that. Something like a pile of Crown amps tall enough to sit on..
Farmtruck-wheelie-Street-Outlaws.jpg
79072_Front_3-4_Web.jpg

This is sound reasoning. Different tools for different jobs. The important thing is a complete set of tools. And the Caddy.
 
This leads me to wonder just how competent the technician responsible for the restoration is. :idea:
Thank you! I am a tech. that repairs tube equipment and it sounds like your tech. never opened the amp. up to full power or he would have noticed a bad pre amp tube. After I do a rebuild, I always run it at 1 w. for 30 mins then at 1/3 power for another 30 mins. before I do a comprehensive listening session. Also break-in the device for about ten hours in 2 hour spurts.
 
Better live than dead? Still I bet the flattest thing in that room are the surfaces. Now Opusarlo, you do know 20hz does have a point there don't you?
 
Not true. Flat response is the first and necessary step, and the foundation to, you got it, DYNAMIC response. My soul lives between the two. No reason to get dressed up if you got no place to go. An opinion.

It gives you a flat/neutral baseline to start with. If you wish to change things that's okay. It just makes sense to start with as flat/neutral sound as possible.
My opinion.
 
Wow, that red Eldorado convertible is really nice! My dad had a white 58’ with Tri power engine. It was a great piece of machinery to drive to the hamburger joint! I used to say that you didn’t steer it, you tacked it!
 
It gives you a flat/neutral baseline to start with. If you wish to change things that's okay. It just makes sense to start with as flat/neutral sound as possible.
My opinion.
Flat response is great to have if only my reception (hearing) were flat...
 
Flat isn't what the OP seeks, nor would it be possible with his speaker arrangement.

(2) 24" Stereo Integrity subs in 100cubic feet concrete vented enclosures tuned to 15Hz would be what the doctor ordered to reproduce the 32' pipes with ease ...
 
I don't believe anyone has asked, what did the shop do to these units? Complete recap, check and replace resistors, set bias, ??? "Completely restored" can mean different things to different people.
All tubes checked and replaced as needed - only the power tubes on the amp were weak. Complete recap regardless of cap condition, bias adjust, and there were some resisters in the box I got upon return as well. I am not sure which ones he replaced, but there were some. Clean up and repair any cold solders.
 
Flat isn't what the OP seeks, nor would it be possible with his speaker arrangement.

(2) 24" Stereo Integrity subs in 100cubic feet concrete vented enclosures tuned to 15Hz would be what the doctor ordered to reproduce the 32' pipes with ease ...

Correct. Flat is not what I want. As for the sub setup - I went with 2- Dayton UM18s in a 256 cube concrete box unvented on 4000 watts firing everything 100 on down. Just waiting on the back-ordered subs. I even told my wife already...everything done except for the driver install.
 
Just so some of the critics are brought up to speed here, Yes my listening room is less than ideal at the moment - I am well aware of this. I am in the process of retrofitting it as we speak. I was in the middle of remodeling this room into a hobby/craft room when i got bit by the hi-fi bug this past winter so I had pulled the carpet and was going to epoxy the floor. Now things are different - obviously - and I am working that into the equation. In the meantime, my music is still loud and complex, and my "ear" is very demanding. I just finished fabricating the 256 cube concrete infinite baffle sub setup for 2 Dayton UM 18', and they will run on 4000 watts. I have brought in 2 dedicated 20 amp services, and I am in the process of building acoustic panels - 8 bass traps high and low, cloud panel, and 4 wall panels. Since I listen to only pipe organ music in mono, and I listen to it very loud, there is no concern with comb filtering interference, and I am not going to even consider diffusion as my listening area is dead in the middle of the room. I have already installed rigid foam over the window so there is no glass, and I have also built foam "walls" for under the workbench so no music gets trapped under there when I am listening. I am not sure what to do with the floor yet. I cannot have a "Slow" surface like carpet, nor can I have a "fast" surface like concrete. I just have not figured out what would be in the middle...wood? industrial foam? that will be down the road a bit. Ask questions about the room if you want, but please don't be pretentious. I am just starting in this hobby and am going as fast as I can. I get fantastic support from some great people on this site, and I would not be as far as I am with out that help - shout-out to Damacman, darkblue94, and 62caddy
 
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