Bassblaster
Super Member
So whats the game plan? place a small PCB order for 10 boards? then if people like them and there's demand get a panel of them?
PA1002A workaround / replacement
- Thread starter Bob@FM
- Start date
Sounds OK to me. I'll build and test the board, probably should have others do it too. I guess if prople want to try this out, they should reply now to get one.
I'll buy the boards if needed. Let me know how to do it, as I never worked with the PCB vendor. Can you put a design on file there, and make it available for others to buy?
If anyone want to take on buying and distributing (selling) these, reply now. As above, I don't want to take on this aspect, the delivery side, right now.
Bassblaster
Super Member
JLC doesnt have a way to post a design and other buys it. my thought as cheap and the boards are, and is such little quantity, if someone wanted a PCB they could just post here and i could send them a board in an envelope. but ill go ahead and get the order in. less than 10 bucks for 10 boards and shipping. ill make a mouser BOM too.
EDIT: BOM list: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=4ea6de02c1
EDIT: BOM list: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=4ea6de02c1
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Thanks for buying the boards, I'll take one for sure.
At this stage, I would recommend sockets for almost everything. One one the main Pioneer board (14 machine pin DIP), one for the op-amp, and a method for getting the board to plug in and out. If you want to use those headers off the board, I would go from the headers to a solderable socket like shown in the picture above of my wired up version.
So one can plug in either this solution, or the original PA1002A, especially if one is troubleshooting a problem (which they likely will be, as it seems these PA1002A all eventually die...).
Plugging this module in will make the tuner L and R outputs play normally again, if the PA1002A was bad. Additionally, if there is a problem in the muting system upstream of the PA1002A, it will also make the tuner play again, as it totally disables all muting. So it's also a nice troubleshooting tool if you work on a lot of Pioneer receivers/tuners that used the PA1002A.
At this stage, I would recommend sockets for almost everything. One one the main Pioneer board (14 machine pin DIP), one for the op-amp, and a method for getting the board to plug in and out. If you want to use those headers off the board, I would go from the headers to a solderable socket like shown in the picture above of my wired up version.
So one can plug in either this solution, or the original PA1002A, especially if one is troubleshooting a problem (which they likely will be, as it seems these PA1002A all eventually die...).
Plugging this module in will make the tuner L and R outputs play normally again, if the PA1002A was bad. Additionally, if there is a problem in the muting system upstream of the PA1002A, it will also make the tuner play again, as it totally disables all muting. So it's also a nice troubleshooting tool if you work on a lot of Pioneer receivers/tuners that used the PA1002A.
Bassblaster
Super Member
in the mouser BOM i added a 14 pin DIP socket to put in the receivers board. DUH why didn't i think of that.
Bassblaster
Super Member
Boards Ordered.
Bassblaster
Super Member
Boards have shipped. should take around 2 weeks
Bassblaster
Super Member
I use EasyEDA. its free and online. and yes you can generate gerbers through JLCPCB, which is the same company.
Bassblaster & Bob
I thought that I'd look at jlcpcb per your suggestion so yesterday I placed an order to jlcpcb, for 2 different designs, 10 of each, std 2layer pcb's, 100x100mm & 155x72mm. I was surprised that they took the data (zip file using their file naming conventions) and immediately generated a .jpg pic of the design for your review. I had not even entered the pwb dimensions into the order and they figured it out = fantastic.
I try to keep my designs into >=100x100mm to get the special deal, in this case $2.67 for 10 pcbs = outrageous deal and service. Damn compared to making your own pcb's using mylar, tape and chemicals = PITA.
In your case you could cheat and put more than one copy of the design into the 100x100m "special deal" space and use some vias in straight lines in order to have a image break point, rather than a "V" score which adds engineering cost.
In my case they had a deal on DHL 2-3 day shipping, maybe because I am a new customer or they like me
SUB-TOTAL C$50.05
DISCOUNT -C$26.71
FREIGHT COST C$1.82
INVOICE TOTAL C$25.15
It amazes me that I can get a pcb made in China, parts from Mouser in a day, have a proto operational all in the same week. All it takes is a few jets and trucks ;-) crazy world.
I thought that I'd look at jlcpcb per your suggestion so yesterday I placed an order to jlcpcb, for 2 different designs, 10 of each, std 2layer pcb's, 100x100mm & 155x72mm. I was surprised that they took the data (zip file using their file naming conventions) and immediately generated a .jpg pic of the design for your review. I had not even entered the pwb dimensions into the order and they figured it out = fantastic.
I try to keep my designs into >=100x100mm to get the special deal, in this case $2.67 for 10 pcbs = outrageous deal and service. Damn compared to making your own pcb's using mylar, tape and chemicals = PITA.
In your case you could cheat and put more than one copy of the design into the 100x100m "special deal" space and use some vias in straight lines in order to have a image break point, rather than a "V" score which adds engineering cost.
In my case they had a deal on DHL 2-3 day shipping, maybe because I am a new customer or they like me
SUB-TOTAL C$50.05
DISCOUNT -C$26.71
FREIGHT COST C$1.82
INVOICE TOTAL C$25.15
It amazes me that I can get a pcb made in China, parts from Mouser in a day, have a proto operational all in the same week. All it takes is a few jets and trucks ;-) crazy world.
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Bassblaster
Super Member
rcs16 i remember back when you was working on that STK0050 boards i kept suggesting JLC to other people and i was mostly ignored. i was like "yeah i can get 10 of those PCB's for a couple bucks and you guys are paying 10 and up for half as many boards"
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I did not ignore you sometimes you stick with, recommend to others what has worked for you in the past and what you are familiar with.
Usually one wants to get something made and tested before it can be recommended. I'll see shortly what jlcpcb quality is like. You have your experiences which is great feedback, so that is why I tried them out. The others are free to what they like.
sometimes you stick with, recommend to others what has worked for you in the past and what you are familiar with.Usually one wants to get something made and tested before it can be recommended. I'll see shortly what jlcpcb quality is like. You have your experiences which is great feedback, so that is why I tried them out. The others are free to what they like.
Bassblaster
Super Member
Update: Boards are taking their sweet time to arrive
yeah, been there, I have my 2 proto's soldered, tested and on route to customer. DHL works if you are in a rush, want to pay the extra bit more & if customers are paying. Can even pay customs/import fees ahead of delivery.
JLC quality seemed fine to me, I did see that on one pcb, they put solder mask over an area that was to be of void of soldermask, not sure why they would remove those apertures flashes, no issue to me, since it was a mounting hole and it uses board mounts. I think I'll stick with jlc for now as I like them overall.
Good Luck with your boards
JLC quality seemed fine to me, I did see that on one pcb, they put solder mask over an area that was to be of void of soldermask, not sure why they would remove those apertures flashes, no issue to me, since it was a mounting hole and it uses board mounts. I think I'll stick with jlc for now as I like them overall.
Good Luck with your boards
Bassblaster
Super Member
im not sure. ive used eagle but VERY little. can you make gerber's in eagle? i know JLC supports eagle files.
jlc has a smart data import tool. as bassblaster said, try loading the eagle design file directly, (assuming it is a complete design) might have to zip first. use the gerber viewer to go over it, it is all done in the quote web page.
if you want to load (eagle) and edit (easyEDA) a design that is converted, I have no idea how well that would work. Would have to run a test.
if you want to load (eagle) and edit (easyEDA) a design that is converted, I have no idea how well that would work. Would have to run a test.
Bassblaster
Super Member
Got some goodies in the mail today
Those boards look great - I can't believe they were so inexpensive. PM sent.
