Paper or sander??
- Thread starter MaDHaTteR
- Start date
Be extremely careful using any power sander on veneer. If you use too coarse a grit or the wrong type of sander you can cut through the veneer to the base wood in a split second.
Don't use a belt sander or a disk sander. These are for removing lots of wood quickly. And they will.
Only use a small finishing sander. If you want to do this make sure you get one, and this will eliminate "cheap", that will do back-and-forth sanding and not just orbital. Orbital sanders will leave small circular swirl marks in the wood that will show up when you apply the finish. You must use straight back and forth sanding motions and keep in the same direction as the grain.
Personally, I would stick to hand sanding with a padded sanding block. That is one with a layer of felt or other padding material to make sure you apply even pressure when you sand.
Don't use a belt sander or a disk sander. These are for removing lots of wood quickly. And they will.
Only use a small finishing sander. If you want to do this make sure you get one, and this will eliminate "cheap", that will do back-and-forth sanding and not just orbital. Orbital sanders will leave small circular swirl marks in the wood that will show up when you apply the finish. You must use straight back and forth sanding motions and keep in the same direction as the grain.
Personally, I would stick to hand sanding with a padded sanding block. That is one with a layer of felt or other padding material to make sure you apply even pressure when you sand.
merrylander
AK Member
Depending on the finish it might also be advisable to strip it first unless you have a cheap source of sandpaper.
Rob
Rob
Ghog
Addictive Personality
If there are any deep scratches or dents you should raise the grain before sanding. Use a thin cotton towel or even thick paper towels that are wet, laid flat on the wood, and run a very hot iron over it. The resulting steam will cause even pretty deep dents to swell back up. The whole speaker will feel hairy, but then when you sand that off, you won't have a dent any more.
Greg
Greg
88gibson
Active Member
Sand paper Grit
I would use a fine grade sandpaper. Maybe a 100 or even 120 grit. Nothing too aggressive! Just my two cents. Depending on how deep the scratches are you could even re-veneer. Some purists may raise their noses at the idea, but it's getting easier to do with newer techniques!
Derek
I would use a fine grade sandpaper. Maybe a 100 or even 120 grit. Nothing too aggressive! Just my two cents. Depending on how deep the scratches are you could even re-veneer. Some purists may raise their noses at the idea, but it's getting easier to do with newer techniques!
Derek
Check to see if the finish is lacquer. If it is, it's a really good candidate for refinish without stripping. Lacquer thinner melts lacquer even if it's 60 years old.
If you sand, you might find that part of the speaker color is pigment. It's really hard to put back the same color.
If you sand, you might find that part of the speaker color is pigment. It's really hard to put back the same color.
MarkAnderson
Addicted Member
I've refinished several pairs of speakers using an orbital sander w/ 120 grit paper with good results. I've found it's best to avoid the edges as much as possible with the sander. Final sanding should be done using a sanding block to remove any circular scratches and finish off the edges. Works for me. Oh yeah, you definitely want to remove any dirt, oil, wax, birdshit, etc., with laquer thinner and a rag before sanding. Course, this is all just my experience. - Mark
MaDHaTteR
KEF maniac
Thanks for the help guys. this is my first set off speakers i have tryed to sand down refurbish so results should be interesting im currently half way through sanding the first speaker down. once i have finished ill post some befor and after pics
PS. dose furnichure wax work ok instead of varnish?, just a thought, i want to try and get a finish that is durable, but not shiny like varnish.
im currently half way through sanding the first speaker down. once i have finished ill post some befor and after pics PS. dose furnichure wax work ok instead of varnish?, just a thought, i want to try and get a finish that is durable, but not shiny like varnish.
Last edited:
Ghog
Addictive Personality
Kyle, The ironing technique will raise the grain on any scratch, regardless of depth. But if it is too deep, it won't raise it all the way back to original. If the dent or scratch goes through the veneer, it won't really help at all. Works better on dents or scratches that compress grain. Cut grain scratches won't respond well. Also, different kinds of wood will respond differently. Just be careful not to apply too much heat or moisture, especially on something made of partical board. Particle board (MDF) will soak up water like a sponge and permanently swell up. Try it on an old beat up speaker from a thrift or pawn shop. I worked over a pair of L-46s not too long ago and after sanding they refinished beautifully!
MaDHaTteR
KEF maniac
:yes: Haha yep i have to admit these speakers have has such a hard life, they were my first proper set off speakers i got these about 5 years back when i was 17 ,
And i have to say they have stood up to alot off misuse, music cranked out off them at silly levels,ciggarets stubbed out on there tops!! {wasnt me!}
got left in a damp garage for a few months. and they still after all that sound amazing!!. i figured as ill probably still have them in 50 years time was worth redoing them
And i have to say they have stood up to alot off misuse, music cranked out off them at silly levels,ciggarets stubbed out on there tops!! {wasnt me!}
got left in a damp garage for a few months. and they still after all that sound amazing!!. i figured as ill probably still have them in 50 years time was worth redoing them
