Pioneer 636 low volume, clarity right channel

[pdxtim]

Picked up a Pioneer 636 at flea market. Sounds good except for a slight decrease in volume and clarity from right speaker (it's as though the treble is turned down, right channel is not as "sharp"). This occurs using CD player plugged into Aux, and with Phono. It sounds fine with headphones. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[zebulon1]

Deoxit first. Then follow with Fader 5.
All the controls, buttons, switches and pots. All of them.

Follow this thread:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/

Then if you have issues report back

 

[pdxtim]

Deoxit first. Then follow with Fader 5.
All the controls, buttons, switches and pots. All of them.

Follow this thread:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/

Then if you have issues report back

I did that with DeOxit cleaner and DeOxit Gold. Will do again though. Thanks for reply!

 

[pdxtim]

So from reading more about DeOxit, it appears I should do the DeOxit D5 cleaner and then use Faderlube rather than the DeOxit Gold (G5)???

 

[ranch 22b]

You might want to take a look at those fuses and fuse holders on the rear. Sometimes there can be corrosion there.

 

[zebulon1]

"ranch 22b" makes a good point.
The tone board has those 2SA726 transistors that can cause issues.
Head phones will sound good but the power required to operate the speakers accentuate the failure.

How DIY'ish are you?

 

[pdxtim]

Regarding DIY, I've done a fair amount of work on cars (tune-ups back in the old days, brakes, stereo installation, etc.), some home repair (replacing light switches, installing ceiling fans). My knowledge of electricity and electronics is elementary though, about the only thing I've soldered recently is the ends of speaker wires so they don't fray when they're inserted into back of speakers. Would love to learn more about stereos and repair though.

 

[zebulon1]

The 636 is a fine receiver and a good set to learn on.
I'm not sure if you executed the Deoxit process correctly. The best method is to gain access to the switch boards by removing them from the chassis. Do not remove any wires or the wirewraps!
Lets get this down. There is no reason to remove any wiring by cutting or unwrapping the connections from the boards. Loosen the harness to get an advantage accessing the board(s).
You may have to remove all the front boards from the front chassis mounting to get access to one. All remain connected to the wire harness.
Take images as you need.
Once you have the switch boards in your hand you can direct the Deoxit into the switch in the precise spot.

I'd like to make sure the Deoxit was done correctly before you begin troubleshooting the issues.
Build a DBT: This is a must!
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/dim-bulb-tester-build.758607/
A very good Thread by a Senior member:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....udio-gear-eh-heres-the-tools-you-need.333423/

 

[pdxtim]

To access screws that hold switch boards to chassis it appears you have to remove front faceplate of receiver. Unfortunately I tried to do that a few months ago when cleaning receiver and I stripped the head of one of the 2 screws that holds faceplate to chassis. Afterwards I read somewhere online that those screws are soft and easily stripped.... they are. I could maybe drill out the screw with a really small bit but don't really wanna do that. As I'm sure you know, the switches do have small slits in the top, into which I've sprayed DeOxit. I guess that's not enough??? If I'm able to get switch boards out, where exactly do I spray them? Thanks.