Pioneer RG-2 Dynamic Processor recap and switch replacement

[leesonic]

Here are some pictures of a Pioneer RG-2 Dynamic Processor i recently worked on. As you can see from the picture below, there are lots of orange Elna electrolytics (low leakage) in there, and a couple of bi-polar ones as well.

Here's the board all re-capped, you can see I used low leakage Nichicon KLs to replace the orange Elnas. All the rest were KWs, with the exception of the two green ES caps at the very back that replaced the bi-polar ones.

I replaced the troublesome tape monitor switch with an ALPs one that was in an old tape deck. What happens with the original Pioneer ones is the latching mechanism breaks inside, and they won't stay in.

However, I did not have any spares to replace the "processor" switch, so I had to order one from Mouser. This replacement would not fit in the original metal cradle, the slots where it locates were wider apart, as you can see from the yellow lines I drew on the picture below.

I ended up cutting away that locating bracket all together, as you can see in the picture below.

More pics...

Lee.

 

[zebulon1]

Great job on the switch replacement (factory)! I have the same processor and had to replace the switches as well. I bought them from a guy on Ebay (good seller) two years ago. They were exact replacements, no modifying required. Could I ask for the recap list you used for the restoration? I won’t blame you if you say no. Nice work. :thmbsp:

 

[leesonic]

Great job on the switch replacement (factory)! I have the same processor and had to replace the switches as well. I bought them from a guy on Ebay (good seller) two years ago. They were exact replacements, no modifying required. Could I ask for the recap list you used for the restoration? I won’t blame you if you say no. Nice work. :thmbsp:

How much were the eBay switches, I never thought to look on there? That one I got from Mouser was only $4.

No problemo on the recap list. If you're going to use this list, just make sure and check it with what's actually inside your unit, you never know if anything might have changed.

As with all my recap lists, if you copy the text below and paste it into Notepad or Wordpad, but save it with the extension CSV (Comma Separated Variable), you should be able to import it in Excel. The columns are fairly self-explanatory, the "voltage if different" is just where I put the voltage of the replacement caps if they are higher than the originals.

Pioneer RG-2 caps,,,,,,

C,C,uF,V,Notes / upgrade,Voltage if different,Mouser part number
1,2,0.47,50,LL,,647-UKL1HR47KDDANA
5,6,10,25,LL,,647-UKL1E100MDDANA
13,14,100,6.3,LL,10,647-UKL1A101KED1TD
15,16,4.7,25,BP,,647-UES1E4R7MDM
21,22,10,16,,50,647-UKW1H100MDD
29,30,4.7,35,,,647-UKW1H4R7MDD
35,36,1,50,LL,,647-UKW1H010MDD
37,38,47,25,LL,35,647-UKL1V470KPDANA
41,,22,35,,50,647-UKW1H220MDD
42,,100,16,,,647-UKW1C101MDD
43,,33,35,,,647-UKW1V330MDD
44,,1,50,,,647-UKW1H010MDD
46,,470,16,,,647-UKW1C471MPD
47,,1000,16,,,647-UKW1C102MPD
48,,4.7,35,,,647-UKW1H4R7MDD
50,,470,35,,50,647-UKW1H471MHD
51,,1000,35,,,647-UKW1V102MHD
,,,,,,
Processor switch,,,,,,611-F6UEE

 

[zebulon1]

I can’t find the source. I’ll keep looking though. I found the guy from a post after a Google search. It wasn’t from a tear down unit (they were brand new). Your mod was probably cheaper in the long run.

Thanks for the list. I know how much work goes into it. I really like my RG-2. It’s used with one of my Sansui 717’s and a CS-5330. Makes a nice difference. I don’t care what they say!

 

[leesonic]

I should of mentioned, I also replaced the two LEDs as well. Not with anything special, just plain old yellow and red ones, but they are brighter than the originals.

Lee.

 

[xlbee]

Digikey has this type of switch (in gold and silver). I used the gold in my SG-9800:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/F4UEE AU/401-1227-ND/417521

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/F4UEE/401-1226-ND/417520?cur=USD

 

[Bstable]

Good Job!

I too did the switch swap, and got the part from a seller on ebay. I let him know about our little community because he does have a quality part that many here where searching for.

 

[jsisk]

Looks great. Seems like you have something new (and quite interesting) coming off the bench quite often.

If you ever run out of projects, let me know.

 

[gunpoet]

Lee you are getting better and better. You impress me my friend!

 

[markthefixer]

Great job on the switch replacement (factory)! I have the same processor and had to replace the switches as well. I bought them from a guy on Ebay (good seller) two years ago. They were exact replacements, no modifying required. Could I ask for the recap list you used for the restoration? I won’t blame you if you say no. Nice work. :thmbsp:

They are still available (no affiliation, plus he has the same AK name as his eBay name...

Pioneer, RG-2, RG-9, TAPE/ PROCESSOR SWITCH ASSEMBLY

as well as

Pioneer, SG-9 / SG-9800, ATTENUATOR / ATTENUATOR, Switch Assembly

edit: see post #15 in this thread.

 

[leesonic]

Digikey has this type of switch (in gold and silver). I used the gold in my SG-9800:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/F4UEE AU/401-1227-ND/417521

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/F4UEE/401-1226-ND/417520?cur=USD

Digging up an old thread here. Did you have to modify or remove the brackets in order to fit the switch you got from Digikey? I had to with the one I got from Mouser.

Lee.

 

[blhagstrom]

Thanks for digging up the thread.

I have a couple of units here with bad switches and was interested in correcting them.

It looks like the Mouser one is a longer switch F6EE. The Digikey link is for F4UEE.

Two different switches but the same company and family of switch so I'm betting the locating/mounting bracket will need to be modified.

I do wonder if the actual guts from the new switch would transplant into the old switch housing. Then you could leave the bracket. It's small detailed work, but you can take the switches apart and put them back together.

 

[mario.bono]

I realize this might get tagged "stupid question", but my repair skills are still in development.
When replacing these Pioneer switches, do they need to be desoldered out, and then a new one soldered in? Or do they simply snap out and back in.
Thanks for your patience.

 

[markthefixer]

desolder out, solder new in.


PLUS some mechanical fooling around to access them, and free them up from everything.

 

[banzerg]

Pioneer specifically had the switch chassis made narrower than standard. This required the mounting slots in the switch to be moved forward . At the time, these were manufactured first by SMK and then ALPS. This proprietary design prevented the use of a standard off-the-shelf switch and forced the purchase of replacements from Pioneer. I have been selling push button switches on Ebay since 2004. At that time the only compatible switches were, Toneluck PBN-S6C35-Bag, PBN-S4C15-Bag, C&K (Schadow) F6UEETB01A and F4UEETB01A. All of my competitors were selling the F6UEE and F4UEE. I do not remember when Toneluck and Alps introduced the PBA and SPUN series switches. However. This series of switches is specifically designed for professional audio applications and have identical dimensions to the SMK switches. The plunger is .4mm longer than the PBN and F series switches which makes it easier to actuate the switch through the escutcheon (front panel). I contacted ALPS and unfortunately, they no longer manufacture the 6 pole switch or the chassis. Toneluck manufactures both but they have not responded to my requests for quote. In any case. The chassis is not required for proper operation of the switches. I am currently offering the Toneluck PBN-S6C35-Bag for the PROCESSOR switch (soon to be F6UEETB01A) and the Alps SPUN194900 for the TAPE MONITOR switch.

 

[mariodebat]

Hello everyone, I have a problem, I bought used and the problem is the following, when I connect the processor it sounds like cut, to understand how when you put a cassette player the Dolby C and the cassette is recorded without Dolby, I do not know if I explain it is like the sound is lost and when the volume increases it appears suddenly, like it has volume peaks, I hope to explain
I do not know who used it or anything, I already changed the processor button that was broken.
can it be some capacitor?
the one who sold it to me says that sometimes a channel did not work, I clean the contacts and the channels work, but every so often it seems that they are lost
Thank you!