Pioneer SA-6500 II Recap or Sell?

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by dneu201, Nov 15, 2015.

  1. dneu201

    dneu201 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    506
    A local vintage/record shop was having a garage sell on as-is items and I picked up a Pioneer SA-6500 ii for $20. I brought it home to try it out and it powered on fine. The issue is in the left channel; when I turn it up the sound is fine at 2 on the dial, but when I increase the volume there is bad distortion in both the a/b left channels. The right a/b's sound really good and all other switches work. I didn't have any deoxit, but I sprayed the Radioshack brand cleaner in all the pots and worked them around, but had no luck. I am thinking the record store probably already tried cleaning the pots or they wouldn't of sold all their units as-is because its an easy fix if it works. I know a lot of people are looking for these units and wouldn't mind spending money and time to fix them or need them for parts. I would like to get this unit working myself if it isn't too much work for a newbie, but I want to get an idea if its worth it or I should just sell it as-is online. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be? Or does it just need a recap? The board is very small and simple, so it would be a good first recap project, but I would need the exact part list.

    Thanks.
     

     

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  2. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    860
    Location:
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    Hi...I just recapped/rebuilt this same unit. It is an easy recap. replaced all the transistor, too. see my post here.
    http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....-normal-to-hear-static-turning-on-off.685986/


    I didn't have many problems, so it came together pretty well. I too was going to sell it after fixing it. They run about 150-200 on ebay. I figured hey, that's a pretty good profit. After fixing it though, I was impressed with it's sound and decided to keep it (as I do with most of my projects). So it's up to you. Look at the comments in above thread and decide what you want to do. I look at it this way, 20 bucks plus repair parts is peanuts compared to keeping a vintage masterpiece alive and kicking. You will only need to spend around 25.00 for all the replacements from Mouser. I don't know what your electronic experience is, but you might find this a good practice piece because of its simplicity. Search for sa-6500 in the bar at the top and you will find just about all you need to repair this beaut. Good luck.
     
  3. dneu201

    dneu201 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    506
    Hey Slayer. I am quite new to this, but would love to make this my first project to learn how to recap. I downloaded a copy of the service manual. Is there any chance you could send me a list of the parts you purchased off of Mouser so I can make the same purchase? I read your thread and see you ran into a small issue. I just want to make sure I order everything right the first time so I can just replace each cap one by one and take it slowly.

    Thanks.
     
  4. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    860
    Location:
    Bethel, Vermont
    No problem...I used everything from this post. First of all, everything MarkTheFixer says is gospel around here. When he says something, it is right. These are Mouser.com part numbers. I did have an issue with mouser not having a particular capacitor in stock, so I had to wait. But you can do what you can until the AWOL parts show up. Here goes:

    USE nichicon uPW caps reserving NICHICON uKL for low leakage / low noise positions. from what I can tell quickly, about a 50 - 50 mix PW to KL.
    list to come later...

    power amp:
    2sa640 inputs 50v 0.05a 0.25w 450hfe 100mhz to-92
    512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe $0.17 ea

    2sa777 / 2sc1438 bias / vas 150v 0.05a 0.5w 150hfe 130mhz to-92
    512-KSA1013YBU to-92L ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.34 (R=60-120, O=100/200, Y=160/320)
    512-KSC2383YBU to-92L ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe $0.17


    2sa850 / 2sc1735 drivers 100v 0.5a 0.8w 300hfe 130mhz to-92
    512-KSA1220AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.39 (R=60-120, O=100/200, Y=160/320)
    512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40


    2sb681 / 2sd586 batwing outputs 100v 5a 60w 80hfe 22mhz batwing
    60+ watts is a bit high power for the package, thus selection is limited.
    your mje's were just 50 watts, and undersized.

    TIP41CG (NPN) and TIP42CG (PNP). These are 65 watt devices in a TO-220 package.
    (batwing replacements)
    863-TIP42CG pnp to-220 bce 100v 6a 65w 3mhz 30-75hfe $0.70
    863-TIP41CG npn to-220 bce 100v 6a 65w 3mhz 30-75hfe $0.64

    (more powerful to-220 batwing replacements
    512-FJP1943OTU pnp to-220 bce 230v 15a 80w 30mhz 80-160hfe $1.21
    512-FJP5200OTU npn to-220 bce 230v 15a 80w 30mhz 80-160hfe $0.85

    batwing outputs are no longer available, thus a adapter hold down is used to clamp to-220 ntransistors in the batwing's place. There is a thread for a sa-9500ii that I did precisely that on it, with pictures. user: mea2112 's thread


    caps:
    awk-083 c1 2.2 25 csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c2 2.2 25 csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c7 47 25 ceanl 47 50 647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    awk-083 c8 47 25 ceanl 47 50 647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    awk-083 c21 2.2 50 ceanl 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c22 2.2 50 ceanl 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c27 2.2 25 csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c28 2.2 25 csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c33 47 25 ceanl 47 50 647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    awk-083 c34 47 25 ceanl 47 50 647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    awk-083 c35 2.2 50 ceanl 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c36 2.2 50 ceanl 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c47 2.2 25 csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c48 2.2 25 csza 2.2 50 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    awk-083 c57 6800 42 ach-073 6800 63 647-UVZ1J682MRD
    awk-083 c58 6800 42 ach-073 6800 63 647-UVZ1J682MRD
    awk-083 c64 4.7 35 cea 4.7 50 647-UPW1H4R7MDD
    awk-083 c65 220 50 cea 220 50 647-UPW1H221MPD
    awk-083 c66 220 50 cea 220 50 647-UPW1H221MPD
    awk-083 c67 220 50 cea 220 50 647-UPW1H221MPD
    awk-083 c68 220 50 cea 220 50 647-UPW1H221MPD
    awk-083 c69 100 35 cea 100 35 647-UPW1V101MPD
    awk-083 c70 100 25 cea 100 35 647-UPW1V101MPD
    awk-083 c71 100 25 cea 100 35 647-UPW1V101MPD
    awk-083 c72 100 25 cea 100 35 647-UPW1V101MPD
    awk-083 c73 100 25 cea 100 35 647-UPW1V101MPD
    awk-083 c74 330 25 cea 330 25 647-UPW1E331MPD
    awk-083 c75 330 25 cea 330 25 647-UPW1E331MPD
    awk-083 c76 470 6 cea 470 10 647-UPW1A471MPD
    awk-083 c77 470 6 cea 470 10 647-UPW1A471MPD
    awk-083 c78 100 10 cea 100 10 647-UPW1A101MDD
    awk-083 c79 100 6 cea 100 10 647-UPW1A101MDD
    awk-083 c80 100 35 cea 100 35 647-UPW1V101MPD
    awk-083 c81 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED
    awk-083 c82 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED


    cap list:
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    647-UKL1H470KPDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
    647-UVZ1J682MRD
    647-UVZ1J682MRD
    647-UPW1H4R7MDD
    647-UPW1H221MPD
    647-UPW1H221MPD
    647-UPW1H221MPD
    647-UPW1H221MPD
    647-UPW1V101MPD
    647-UPW1V101MPD
    647-UPW1V101MPD
    647-UPW1V101MPD
    647-UPW1V101MPD
    647-UPW1E331MPD
    647-UPW1E331MPD
    647-UPW1A471MPD
    647-UPW1A471MPD
    647-UPW1A101MDD
    647-UPW1A101MDD
    647-UPW1V101MPD
    647-UPW1A221MED
    647-UPW1A221MED

    Here is the thread link:
    http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sa-6500-ii-restoration.415827/

    also, if you can wait until tonight (I am at work), I compiled all this data into one excel spreadsheet, to get the total number of each part since multiple caps have the same number. Have fun and take your time. I recommend if you are just starting, replace one for one, let cool for a few secs, power up and test. That way, if you flub up one cap somewhere, you know it was the last one you did. Worked for me.
     
  5. dneu201

    dneu201 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    506
    Wow. Thanks for your help. The excel sheet would be great. I will try to order all the parts tonight. I'm going to need a new soldering gun and possibly a de-soldering gun. Would you recommend what you use or another that I can quickly get my hands on?

    Thanks.
     
  6. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    860
    Location:
    Bethel, Vermont
    I use a Weller something, something. I never paid attention to the model, I just use it. It has a de-soldering bulb tip that comes off the iron. Just found it on ebay...yeah, this is what I have. It's kind of a pain though, you have to remove the hot bulb tip, then screw on the next tip, and so on, and so on. What I also use is a solder sucker in conjunction with the regular iron tip. it is much faster.
     

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  7. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    860
    Location:
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    Forgot to mention I will post that excel doc for you tonight. Can you open excel documents?
     
  8. kwape

    kwape Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    plymouth MA
    I've never been that lucky to only spend 25 bucks on a recap. It usually costs me over 100$ easily. The last one I did was 98$ just for the 2 power filter caps alone. Price would come down to what grade ($$$) components you want to buy and the amp itself. This one sounds like a no brainer, recap it.
     
  9. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    860
    Location:
    Bethel, Vermont
    I didn't do the main filters. A lot of experts on here suggest that they don't need to be done unless for obvious reasons. I checked my invoice just now and paid 24.76 plus 4.99 shipping. And that's with buying extra components for future use. Also, what did you recap? that makes a huge difference. This amp is very simple.
     

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  10. kwape

    kwape Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    plymouth MA
    oh yeah that makes sense.


    I just did a sa-9100 that has a lot of caps. I was also using film & experimenting with nichicon KZ caps that are expensive as fuck.
     
  11. dneu201

    dneu201 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    506
    Yes. I can open excel.
     

     

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  12. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
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    Yeah...big diff there. I spent about 34 bucks on my SX-828 and still didn't do the tuner board. I haven't had to do main caps yet, so I don't even know where to get them. These are HUGE and will probably cost an arm and a leg. I tend to start with transistors and electrolytics first. If that doesn't succeed, then I go further.
     
  13. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    860
    Location:
    Bethel, Vermont
    Dneu...Here is my list for mouser. Like I said, I ordered extra parts to have on hand, so you will have to do some homework if you want to pay the exact amount.
    Shit...I can't upload an excel file. Got an email address?
     
  14. dneu201

    dneu201 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    506
    Dneu2011@gmail.com

    Thanks for all your help.
     
  15. dneu201

    dneu201 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    506
    Update: I replaced all but 4 capacitors on the amplifier (they weren't in stock), and saw some improvement in the distortion coming from the left channel, but it is still bad past 3 on the amplifier. I haven't gotten to the transistors yet, but I did notice smoke coming from one of the resistors at loud volumes only when playing through the left channel. I followed the board to a nearby transistor and noticed it was badly overheating (hot to the touch). Could a simple transistor be the cause of the problem?
     
  16. dneu201

    dneu201 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    506
    Update to all in the thread just in case someone has the same issue as me. I got the amplifier working!! After replacing all the caps, the 2sc1735s and 2sa850s, and the output transistors, the amplifier is working perfectly. I ended up buying four To-220 mounting kits from Radioshack since the outputs didn't have the heatsink batwings. The culprit was one of the 2SD586A's; it was reading way lower than the other transistors. I didn't finish installing all the other transistors and decided they could be used as replacements for later. I am now considering getting rid of my Nad c316bee and using this bad boy for my vinyl setup.

    Thanks Slayer44 for all your help.
     

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  17. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    You're very welcome. Glad to help when I can. As stated before, I am a newb too so we gotta stick together. I am in the process of finding another junker on Ebay so I double these little guys up and power my six Cerwin-Vega towers! HEE..HEE..HEE (maniacal laughter)
     
  18. Mark Davis

    Mark Davis Member

    Messages:
    72
    Location:
    Richmond, Virginia
    I would be interested in the excel as well. I have a opportunity do by one of these and it will need some work. It doesnot power up at present
     
  19. slayer44

    slayer44 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    860
    Location:
    Bethel, Vermont
    Mark...it will take me a bit to find that doc. Its at work and didnt read this until I got home. Monday.
     
  20. Mark Davis

    Mark Davis Member

    Messages:
    72
    Location:
    Richmond, Virginia
    No problem. Thanks.
     

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