Pioneer Spec 2 It's home, looks and sounds like new

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by 70's Silver, Apr 30, 2017.

  1. 70's Silver

    70's Silver New Member

    Messages:
    32
    I would like to start this thread by thanking AK member rjsalvi (Robert J Salvi) for restoring my spec 2. A while back I purchased the spec 2 at an estate sale with other gear. All of the gear came in original boxes. The spec 2 was not beat up, but was showing its age. When I got it home I plugged it in and it went into protection mode. I placed it back in the box and put it away for a couple of years. Recently I was able to see and hear a couple of refurbished vintage amps that Robert had done and they looked and sounded like new. I asked Robert if he would take my spec 2 on and he said it sounds like fun. Robert has been around audio since the age of 13. He founded Ambiance Acoustics in 1994. Well the amp is now done and I am completely blown away with the results. When I picked it up he had it hooked up to his Super Cube Evos and EQC-1 Active Equalizer and I was in audio bliss.
    Robert, thank you so very much for your professional and courteous service.
    I have attached pics so you can see Roberts excellent work. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  2. 70's Silver

    70's Silver New Member

    Messages:
    32
    More pics image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
  3. 70's Silver

    70's Silver New Member

    Messages:
    32
  4. 70's Silver

    70's Silver New Member

    Messages:
    32
  5. DrumminDaddy

    DrumminDaddy Hit it, Baby !! Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,060
    Location:
    Lost in musing circumstances
    Gorgeous!
     
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  6. rjsalvi

    rjsalvi Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Here's what we did:

    ** Powder coat top and side panel sheet metal
    ** Clean up pitting and discoloration on handles, then apply three coats of non-yellowing, semi-gloss clear
    ** Clean front, rear, and bottom panels, knobs, and chassis metal
    ** Clean pins on power amp board connection terminals
    ** Apply JB Weld between STV-4H & 3H diode housings/connecting wires for strength
    ** Deoxit gain pots and power switch
    ** Replace ALL lamps
    ** Replace ALL fuses
    ** Replace ALL transistors (including output transistors)
    ** Replace ALL diodes
    ** Replace ALL electrolytic capacitors and add film bypass caps to main filter and power supply electrolytics
    ** Replace binding posts
    ** Use stacked film caps for C1 on power amp boards
    ** Replace RL1 relay on both power amp boards
    ** Q1 transistor matching for DC offset adjustment on power amp boards: 3mV L channel, 18mV R channel
    ** Adjust idle current to 30mV both channels
    ** Zero the meters

    There's more minor detail stuff, but about this covers it. It sounds as clean as it looks and kudos to Craig ... I started with a virgin machine that was an absolute diamond in the rough. He picked a winner and it made my job easy.
     
  7. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    183
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Hi, 70's Silver. I am restoring a SPEC 2 and have a couple of questions for you.

    Did you do any major prepping to the top and side covers before powder coating (light sanding, sanding down to bare metal, primer)? and did you powder coat yourself?

    I have looked at your output terminals. Did you have to modify anything to get them to fit on the back panel and terminal rings?

    Thanks in advance for your responses.
     
  8. rjsalvi

    rjsalvi Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    No prep work for the powder coating. The powder coaters first step is to sandblast the metal. And yes, the binding post mounting holes had to be drilled out for these particular binding posts. Attached to, and behind the rear panel, the binding posts mate to a piece of bakelite? That's what needs to be drilled out. Here's the manufacturers link to the binding posts (scroll down to TP6): http://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/terminals/single.htm
     
  9. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    183
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    If you don't mind me asking, what diodes did you use on the Power Supply board and the output boards?
     
  10. rjsalvi

    rjsalvi Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    (chuckling) In preparation for an EMP blast, I used ALL 1N5408s on the PS board (including the one across the relay). I happen to keep a lot of 5408s, 4148s, and 4007s on hand.
    On the output boards:
    BZ-340 = 1N5247B x 2 in series
    1S2473 = 1N4148
    SIB01-04 = D7>1N5408 D8>1N4007 (I *think* in that order, or ir could be the other way around.)

    If I've forgotten any, post the board designation and I'll look it up. HTH.
     
  11. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    183
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Hi, rjsalvi.

    I'm a little confused on Post #10. "SIB01-04 = D7>1N5408 D8>1N4007 (I *think* in that order, or ir could be the other way around.)".

    D7 and D8 are both SIB01-04 diodes. Did you use 1N5408 or 1N4007? I bought some 1N4007G diodes to cover my self.

    Thanks.
     
  12. rjsalvi

    rjsalvi Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    4007s will work just fine. I had a couple leftover 5408s and put them to work in slot D7, but 4007s are more than adequate for D7 & 8..
     

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