Pioneer SPEC 2 restoration help

Electronics Tech in the Army (HF Radio but not depot level). Most of my expertise was acquired working with Electrical Engineers as an Electronics Tech/Engineering Tech/Test Tech at GE, McDonnell Douglas/Boeing and now Orbital Sciences/ATK. The job titles changed as management changed but the work was always the same. We were always big on quality and I learned a lot over 35 years in the Aerospace industry. It has paid off but sometimes I get a little anal about not short-cutting and getting it right the first time.
 
Update:

More parts came in on Thursday. Looks like I can finish replacing the diodes and transistors on the Amp boards this week-end. The big thing for me though are the PCB terminal blocks. I'm pretty stoked right now. They look great.

1-New TB.jpg

2-TB interlocks.jpg

The wire-wrap post removal on the Amp boards actually went fairly easy. I had a little help from a Manufacturing Engineer at Orbital/ATK. He teaches classes on Cable/Board Assembly Manufacturing standards and J-Standard Solder certifications. Awesome guy. I've never been very good using solder wick and always relied on De-soldering stations for my work. He has a great handle on using solder wick and after showing me some tips I got the technique down quickly.

3-pin removal d.jpg

You use the iron tip to heat and gently push the pin flush with the thru-hole pad after removing the solder. By the way, this is really old solder and the smell lingers for awhile after the work is done.

4-pin removal b.jpg

After removing some residual solder from the pad, I gently wobbled(?) the pin out from the component side of the board. Works great.

5-pin removal c.jpg

20 pins total were removed from both boards (including the really crappy ones.

6-pin removal f.jpg

7-pin removal g.jpg

A little clean-up after the fact. Left board...

8-LH Brd Pins Removed Bottom (Medium).jpg

9-LH Brd Pins Removed Top (Medium).jpg

And Right board in next post (damn this picture limit).
 

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OK. Right board...

11-RH Brd Pins Removed Bottom (Medium).jpg

12-RH Brd Pins Removed Top (Medium).jpg

You can see from the shape of the thru-hole pads that these pins were press-fit in place.

10-Pads need openning a bit.jpg

Now for the PCB Terminal Block fit check...

13-Pins Removed new PCB TB a.jpg

You can still see the PCB pin designator numbers on the board but I will be applying designator labels on the TBs later.

14-TB on board 1.jpg

Can still see Brd IDs.jpg

16-TB on board 3.jpg

17-TB on board 4.jpg

These PCB TBs work well and even match the color of the board stenciling. A plus for looks. I am trying to locate some low profile TBs but if I can't find them, these will do the job.

That's all for now.
 
Need a little help. The PCB TB I want to install in the 11 thru 15 pin location of the AWH-045 board is getting some interference from C9. I can try to reposition this cap or replace it with a smaller form factor PET cap. My initial search on Mouser is turning up only SMD caps. No radial lead caps. Anyone got any ideas for a suitable replacement? I would change out C8 and C9 on both output boards for consistency. Thanks for any help in advance.

Cap interference.jpg

I just did another Mouser search and came up with 3 potential candidates:

598-DMT2P1K-F, 539-104MACQRL150 and 598-225P10492XD3.

Would one of these work?
 
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Update:

Well...I had one of those "good days, bad days, good days, all rolled up in one" days on Friday. I started the Q12/Q13 transistor install starting with the on the RH amp board. That one went well.

1 Ready To Install Trans 1.jpg

2 Ready To Install Trans 2a.jpg

3 Ready To Install Trans 4.jpg

Noticed during the install that the screws securing the transistors to the heat sink are two different sizes.

4 Screw Size Dif 1.jpg

5 Screw Size Dif 2.jpg

Wonder how that happened? It is the same on the LH amp board as well.

I had just enough screw thread protrusion to get both transistors mounted. This install included inclusion of an insulated shoulder washer for each transistor.

6 Screw Size Dif 4a.jpg

Bad day starts on the next post.
 

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Baaad day starts well enough.

Getting ready to install Q12/Q13 on the LH amp board.

7 Trans Install 1.jpg

8 Trans Install 2.jpg

9 Trans Install 3a.jpg

During installation of Q12/Q13 on the LH board, I noticed two lifted pads on Q12 I somehow managed to overlook while removing the old transistors. This was the amp board that originally had all of the kludged parts and boogered up wire-wrap pins. My problem board.

10 LH Brd Pad Dmg 1.jpg

The pads are still securely attached to the runs. I was able to press them out and pin them flat against the board while the transistor leads were soldered to the pads.

11 LH Brd Pad Damage 2.jpg

I hope that this is an acceptable "fix"?

Also got the PCB terminal blocks installed on both boards. C9 was temporarily removed until I can find a small form-factor cap to replace this one.

12 PCB Hdr installed 1.jpg

13 PCB Hdr installed 2.jpg

My bad day ended and finished on a high note with Fridays mail.

Silicone impregnated Fiber Glass sleeving arrives from China. Exactly what I was hoping it would be. I had a really hard time finding a source for this stuff.

14 Fiber Glss 1.jpg

I ordered five sizes: 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 4mm and 5mm in white.

15 Fiber Glss 3a.jpg

Now the fun begins.

Until next time...
 
Update:

Prepping the two series diodes to replace the one in the D2 location on the AWH-045 board.

Start with a butt splice and 0.4" spacing between the two diodes.

D2 a.jpg

Leads trimmed and splice crimped.

D2 b.jpg

A good mechanical connection with a dab of solder in the splice followed by heat shrink over the splice. The lead will be re-formed after the heat shrink is installed.

D2 c.jpg

I'll post pix of the finished product in a day or two. No more time to spend on this tonight.
 
Update:

D2 replacement is finished and ready to install on the -045 boards.

A little solder on the splices.

D2 w solder.jpg

Some heat shrink over the splices.

D2 w HS.jpg

Final product.

D2 Final.jpg
 
Update:

Got D7 and D8 replaced on both AWH-045 boards. Used RL852-B diodes. God those things are huge. The diode leads just barely didn't fit in the board thru-holes. Used a #55 drill bit to slightly enlarge the holes. My alternate part (1N5408G) wasn't any better fit. See pictures below.

1.jpg

2.jpg

Fit check before installing.

3.jpg

A little heat shrink insulation and final install..

4.jpg

This one's a bit of a tight fit.

5.jpg
 
Could you point me at where the subs for D7 & D8 SIB01-04 are called out.
The SIB01-04 are 400v, 1 amp diodes.


unless I find out differently, I would use 1n4004 or uf-4004.
 
mark,

I'm not intentionally shooting down anyone on this thread that has helped me in my SPEC 2 restoration project. Just to be clear up front.

This is really starting to suck (a little). When I did my parts research on this forum, I found that many AK members doing restorations on the SPEC 2 (and just in general) seem to have their own flavor of parts so long as the part specs are in line with the original part. This caused me some confusion as there was no hard replacement for some of the SPEC 2 parts. Case in point...diodes.

So I ordered every damn replacement diode that was either recommended by AK responders or fit the original part specification based on AK member feedback (from SPEC 2 and other restorations that used the SIB0-04 part) and a few that looked like they would work based on my own research. Here's the list I came up with:

1N4007
1N4007G (don't know what the "G" stands for)
1N5408G
UF4004
UF4004-E3/73 (don't know what the "-E3/73" means)
RL-852-B

So, the replacement part for the D7/D8 diodes on the output boards came from post #84 of the "SPEC 2 Filter Cap Purchase Source" thread (rcs16). Since rcs16 was the first and only responder to my query, his sub was the part I chose to use (I guess I should start double-checking parts specs). At the time, I did not look at the datasheet for the RL-852-B part and I didn't have one for the SIB01-04 part. I just (minutes ago) located a datasheet on the SIB01-04 diode and you are correct...400V/1A. So I have the wrong part installed. I'll fix this by subbing with the 1N4007 part. It is smaller. Just too bad I already made the thru-holes slightly larger to accommodate the wrong part.

The 1N5408G and 1N4007 sub came from post #10, 11 and 12 of the "Pioneer Spec 2 It's home, looks and sounds like new" thread.

Sorry this response is so long but if I am justifying the parts I use for subs, you now have the history behind this particular one. You did ask and I am learning more as this project continues.

Thanks for your comment. I do want the right part on the boards.
 
I really wish I could have helped earlier. I wish my life was that simple (again).
 
Question:

Would Mouser P/N 598-104MSR250K CDE Film Cap (.1uF/250V) work as a suitable sub for C9 (.1uF/200V) on the -045 Output boards?

Thanks in advance for your response(s).

Mark
 
It seems like help on AK for Pioneer equipment is kinda hard to get lately. I know people are busy in real life, but back a few years ago whenever I asked a question or said something I'd get a response quite fast, not these days. Good luck with your restoration, slipstream55, hope you get the info you need to finish it.
 
Thanks for your comment, xXColdShotXx. I am still patiently waiting for a response to post 155. I'm on company travel for awhile so the restore is back on hiatus until travel is completed and parts (replacement diodes for D7 and D8 on the output boards) trickle in. Seems On-Semi has a very long lead time on the 1N4004-G and 1N4007-G diodes. Perhaps no longer available? As the 1N4004 and 7 are. I am leery of purchasing the Taiwan brand and am not sure of the Com Chip Technology brand.
 
You can use 505-MKS4G031003FKI00 for C8 and C9. On the diodes, use 625-1N4004-E3/73. On-Semi bought out Fairchild Semi and they've been redoing everything with their branding, hence a lot of the transistors, diodes and other semiconductors we use being on backorder.
 
And the bottom panels:

View attachment 1116775

View attachment 1116776

Apparently, this guy was dropped at some point. Notice the foot indent in the pictures. I did attempt to flatten it a little but it really stands out after paint. Hopefully, it won't be too noticeable after the feet are re-installed.

That's all until next time.
I have a Spec 1 and 2 and Im thinking about having the steel panels powder coated. What texture do you ask for?
 
Not sure off the top of my head. Let me pull the receipt and see what I had done. I believe I went with minimal texture as powder coating, by default, has some texturing built in. If I was doing this over again, I would have bumped the gloss up one step but it turned out fine as-is.
 
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