pioneer sx 1010 problems

thanks echo! im sorry we got off to such a rough start! i have an entertainment stand im dedicating to my baby. i figured id mount small fans in the back unless someone can tell me how to mount a few cpu fans under the cover?????? if that would work?? im setting on about 15, (2 to 5)" fans.
 
I don't like internal fans. Anytime you're moving air, you're moving dirt. A cpu fan will simply pack in the dirt.

Set the unit on a clean, hard surface, with ample room above for heat to escape (5" at least). If you have to rock hard for a lengthy period of time, train a room fan on the unit to help with heat removal.

Remember that receivers aren't really meant to run at 'balls to the wall' output levels for long periods of time. You need big dedicated amps for that.
 
I don't like internal fans. Anytime you're moving air, you're moving dirt. A cpu fan will simply pack in the dirt.

Set the unit on a clean, hard surface, with ample room above for heat to escape (5" at least). If you have to rock hard for a lengthy period of time, train a room fan on the unit to help with heat removal.

Remember that receivers aren't really meant to run at 'balls to the wall' output levels for long periods of time. You need big dedicated amps for that.

Seconded. I have had AMPLE (negative) industrial experience with fan cooling, filters, heat rise and preventative maintenance schedules.

More air, more dirt, dirt caked on the heat sink reduces cooling ability.
 
ok i have started the cap replacement and have found that the originals had an epoxy at the base. is this for vibration???? some of the new caps had a slightly narrower wire diameter so they would not seat flush with the board. should i hot glue or epoxy the base at 1 point to prevent movement?
 
The glue was to hold the part in place during factory assembly. Not really needed on replaced parts.
 
i changed all the recomended parts in the power supply and noticed a few weak solder joints for some resistors not changed. i resoldered them and have found that the coating started to crack and flake. were the originals painted??? do i need to worry and replace these also. i noticed that the 3 resistors i removed did the same thing. i thought it was from me overheating them during removal so i was verry carefull at resoldering the joints.
 
Last edited:
i dont get this site. i had the post new thread option, i posted 1 thread and lost the ability. i noticed that donate was there so i did. i still cant post new threads. the icon is not there to post?????
 
Do you want or need to start a new thread? You do this from the proper location...which is not while viewing another thread (from there the only option is to reply to the thread you are currently viewing).

As far as resistors, many have an enamel coating. If the coating is cracked, the resistor gets replaced. Simple as that.
 
There should be no reason to not be able to start a new thread from whichever forum you choose. There is no need to donate in order to start a thread. I assume there may have been a misunderstanding of some sort. Maybe your donation can be used toward a subscription which does afford some extra benefits.
 
i did subscribe. i have gone by the faq and i dont see the option to post again. i found it once under search i think. id like to start a new thread for a turntable. but my next post is the most important. thanks for the info
 
ok my power supply board has resistors with the coating flaking off. i went thru the previous threads to find matching mouser #'s to match these and could not. i replaced all the cap's, transistors, and 3 resistors per mark's page. i went to mouser.com and did a search of the others. (im guessing metal film would be ok)???? now on the search i had to input the,tolerance,voltage rating,temp coefficient,operating temperature,and deminsions. i have not the slightest clue of how to figure this out. some of the smaller caps i need to. they look slightly cooked. the most brown of all are rated at 0.001@50v. the others are0.01@150v.i would love if someone knew the mouser #s. i can list my resistor requirements if needed. thanks for the patience:scratch2:
 
Last edited:
ok so if i go with the original ohm values for the resistors and figure a 10% variable. figure an operation range of 60f to the max of let's say 300f. i touched the heat sink while operating at high volume and it burned me about the same as a pot of boiling spaghetti. i keep the demensions as close as i can to the original. i know they are 1/4 watt and i figure the opp voltage range to be above a buck 50, would that be a good resistor choice for my power supply board????
 
It's a little more complex then that. IF they are within tolerance for their specified resistance why do you want to change them? Exactly WHICH resistors are they? Values? Rx number? I haven't looked back to see...

Heatsink is hot? Power supply? - maybe there's a short elsewhere pulling too much juice -

I was not ignoring you - I COULDN'T answer. And this isn't a quick easy answer, it takes time to work through the entire thread, catching up and figuring out where you are REALLY at.... SO:

I HOPE by this weekend (Sunday Evening??) I can resolve and finish some things and get back online again, but a series of real world issues have forced me off line, or left me too tired to do accurate and reliable troubleshooting posts.

And with the backlog of requests, it will take a while to work through them.
 
the power supply board was getting hot before the recap. since then i never hooked it back up. i tried to resolder some bad joints and found that the enamel on the resistors were flakeing. keep in mind that i transplanted this board #awr054, from my dad's old stereo that had been thru hell and multiple failures. i know for shure that on the last failure it poped 2 output transistors. it also recentlly went thru 2 power transformers, a few caps and most the switches didnt realise if they were on or off. i did the full recap of the board , the transistors and the 3 resistors that were spec'd by mark. now i would like to go ahead and replace the the resistors. they ohm to spec but look damaged. i did more home work and found these #s from mouser going by the original ohm rating. i noticed that the recomended resistors i changed were at a 1% variable verses the 5% that was factory. well i figured all of them at 1%. im gonna post the mouser parts list. at the price of the resistors, i figured id order them for shits and giggles anyway. i hope they are right let me know please if they arent. mouser is next door.
660-MF1/4DC10R0F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
10ohm 1% 100PPM (r11,r12,r21)

660-MF1/4DC3R30F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
3.3ohm 1% 100PPM (r20)


660-MF1/4DC3300F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
330ohm 1% 100PPM (r18)

660-MF1/4DCT52R3002F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
1/4W 30K ohm 1% (r17)


660-MF1/4DC1802F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
18K 1% 100PPM (r15)

660-MF1/4DC8201F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
8.2K 1% 100PPM (r9,r10)


660-MF1/4DC1502F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
15K 1% 100PPM (r7,r8,r16)


660-MF1/4DC1002F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
10K 1% 100PPM (r5,r6,r19)


660-MF1/4DC1001F
KOA Speer 1/4Watt Metal Film Resistors
1K 1% 100PPM (r3,r4)
 
Last edited:
ok there is a 3.3 k resistor for r1,&r2 that i didnt replace. they are set high above the board with a wrap around 1 leg. they ohmed right so ill let them be.i hope the other values are ok. ill let yall know within the next day or two. im replacing the back panel first. its all scratched up and the ferrite antenna mount is snapped of this unit. after that in with the power board and hope like hell it works right.:D
 
when you power it up, use a dim bulb tester. measure the voltages for ones grossly off, but the dim bulb will affect the readings, so the accurate readings are taken after the dim bulb is removed - when things are reasonably close.
 
were the resistor values i found the wrong ones??? they are on post #35. they are the same ohm rating and wattage as the service manual specifies
 
Last edited:
were the resistor values i found the wrong ones??? they are on post #35. they are the same ohm rating and wattage as the service manual specifies

If you had been wrong, as you requested
i hope they are right let me know please if they arent
- somebody would have pointed out any errors -

Since I'm feeling marginally better (but not well enough to re-attack the "real world problems" I was working on when I got sick), and I think my concentration is better than it was, I took the time to double check your list. It's fine - acknowledging the missing r1 & r2 3.3k ohm resistors.

Since when I looked in mouser, the 5% and 1% resistors in the quantities we would order were about the same price (and the fact i had a harder time finding the 5% and in stock values) i went with the 1% on the few resistors I have specified for repair. resistors are the least likely part to be replaced if they have not gone up in smoke...

mouser's "next door", hmmmm, if it weren't for the fire ants - I might be jealous.
 
Last edited:
thanks everybody for the help. i fired her up late last night and she sounds great. the protect circuit engages in about 2 seconds. there is no static on any knobs, the tuner is flawless and all the inputs work.:banana:
 
Back
Top Bottom