Pioneer SX-1010
- Thread starter Adam60
- Start date
Loweran your timing is impeccable. It was funny because around 8:00 last night I just started flipping switches and lo and behold, the tone switch seemed to be the issue. I moved it and everything cleared up. I could move it into a place where the unit wasn't happy and then back into a place where everything was good. That was after pinning out every transistor voltage on the power amp boards and comparing them to no avail. Anyways, I am going to run it all day today and see if it acts up anymore and order a can of Deoxit to clean all the controls. The customer said he was going to do that but apprently it never happened. Thanks for your post.
The 1010 switches can be taken apart and cleaned/lubed. I'll remove the three set of switches, filters and 20db mute, dissemble and inspect the condition. Some sets will need a complete dissemble and cleaning, where others can get by with the the external Deoxit treatment. Most need the complete cleaning.
Like I said before, this extra process can make a considerable difference in performance. It adds another 4 hours to the bill. Worth every penny.
Like I said before, this extra process can make a considerable difference in performance. It adds another 4 hours to the bill. Worth every penny.
Zebulon, do you have a pictorial how to on cleaning all the switches or is it pretty straight-forward? I don't want to mess this thing up if I don't need to. Any precautions?
Loweran it seems to be just the switch. I can toggle it back and forth and make it crackle but I have found a happy place for it and the machine has been running for three days now without a crack. Wish I knew what blew the output transistor? That kind of sits uneasy with me. I like Cause and Effect. I only cured the Effect.
Loweran it seems to be just the switch. I can toggle it back and forth and make it crackle but I have found a happy place for it and the machine has been running for three days now without a crack. Wish I knew what blew the output transistor? That kind of sits uneasy with me. I like Cause and Effect. I only cured the Effect.
Desolder the whole gang from the board and keep them together when dissembling them. Use a small electronic set of pointy wire cutters to bend the metal tabs away. The mica contact plate and sliders can be removed. Things are tiny so have an organized comfortable place to perform this procedure. Deoxit and Fader lube, medium tooth brush and a set of desk drawer erasers. One pink and one white (ink). Use a building knife and cut a 3/16 slot down the long side allowing enough room to straddle the one line of contacts.
Use the tooth brush with the Deoxit first and progress to the pink then to the white if needed for the stubborn tarnish.
Remember that the contacts are plated. You only want to remove the debris not the plating. Anything more abrasive will damage the contacts.
Use good desoldering skills when removing the switches. You don't want to make more work for yourself and damage the PCB. I have some tips if needed.
The entire front control/cutout chassis removes once all the tone, volume/balance, power switch and the mic/phono jacks are detached. It gives unparalleled access to the function switches and lamps.
Use the tooth brush with the Deoxit first and progress to the pink then to the white if needed for the stubborn tarnish.
Remember that the contacts are plated. You only want to remove the debris not the plating. Anything more abrasive will damage the contacts.
Use good desoldering skills when removing the switches. You don't want to make more work for yourself and damage the PCB. I have some tips if needed.
The entire front control/cutout chassis removes once all the tone, volume/balance, power switch and the mic/phono jacks are detached. It gives unparalleled access to the function switches and lamps.
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