Pioneer SX-1050 New Case Project

sawdust

Solid walnut covers all my gear
I want to share my method on how I make a SX-1050 Case, over the years I got several PM from members asking for measurements to make cases for their gear.
First I make a pattern off the original there is 3 pieces for the SX-1050 2 for the sides and a top I always make pattern if I plan on making more then one I made a few dozen SX-1050 cases if your only going to make one case just make a pattern to bore the holes and countersink them I use a plunge router with a 3/4" collet it gives perfect results with on tear out.
Try to copy your old case as close as possible will get in to more detail later. these are the patterns for the SX-1050 Case
IMG_4819.JPG This is the stock for the SX-1050 finished planed about 1"IMG_4519.JPG Now off to the band saw to slice them in half .IMG_4528.JPG
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Now to the planer the original sides and top is 0.365" thick it is my target thickness try to get as close as possible to your case thickness my planer has a digital readout accurate within + or - 0.001"
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Now off to the table saw, I set my fence using the side pattern then I bump the fence 0.020" wider so after I glue the inside pieces I can parallel it the finish size this it a important step also make sure to save the fall out piece this piece gets glued in side the side piece hopefully it will be a good grain match.
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I also parallel the top at this time about a 1/4" wider , I will parallel to it's finish size after I do the tenens on the ends to take care of any tear outIMG_4824.JPG Now I can parallel the 2 fallout pieces that will be glued to the sides, my pattern for the side fallout pieces is 0.020" wider and it is 0.040" longer so I just set fence to the pattern
IMG_4559.JPG Now I can square cut the sides and the fallout pieces I set my stop on my crosscut sled with my fallout pattern they will be 0.040 longer so I can recut each end 0.020" after I glue the fallout Pieces to the sides this gives me clean cut ends
IMG_4690.JPG Now I square cut both ends of the top to it's finished length just set my stop using the top pattern
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Now I finish the right and left fallout pieces I use double stick to fasten them to the pattern and notch cut the ends on the band saw the right side goes to the router table to trim the half circle with a flush trim bit
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Now it's time to glue the fallout pieces to the sides try to line the top and ends flush I shoot 3 brad nails to hold them flush so they won't move when I clamp them Just make sure the brad nails are low so they won't interfere with the mortise and vent screws
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Back to the table saw I set my fence using the side pattern and parallel the sides taking off that 0.020" now you can see why I made them oversize this step was important for detail.
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Now I set my crosscut sled stop to the side pattern then I lift the stop and move the side 0.020" back and cut this side then lower the stop and cut the other end , I just removed the 0.040" now you can see why I made them longer this adds to the finish detail.
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At this point I check the sides for the finish thickness it should be close to the original case 0.730" top thickness
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Off to the router table to router the tenons on the top, set the bit height to 0.115" set the fence to the bit bearing the finished tenon should be 0.250" thick and the same in depth you can also do this on the table saw when you square cut the top just add 0.250" brass bar between the stop and the top and set your blade height so your tenon is 0.250" thick
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Back to the table saw remember the top was cut 1/4" oversize I rip 1/8 off one side then set my fence using the top pattern and cut the other side this step takes care of any tear out when making the tenons leave the fence set for the top.
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be back later
 
back to the router table to finish the top set the bit height 0.165" and fence depth 1.200" router out the underside of the top to match the original case one more step and the top is finished now back to the table saw.
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The fence is still set for the finished width of the top to cut tongue bump the fence towards the blade 0.125" and set the blade height 0.075" and cut the tongue
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it should end up at 0.125 thick and the same in depth
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now I raise the blade all the way and cut each ends back 0.375" back now the top is finished.
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Time to mortise the sides for the top set the 1/4" router bit height to 0.265" as you can see I make it deeper to give the glue extra space so it won't hydraulic set the fence 0.395" from the far side of the bit this should leave a 0.030" reveal in height to the side I always make a test cut to confirm I end up with the correct reveal.
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Now for the mounting holes, I use a router with a 3/4" collet a 1/4" bit to bore the holes and a 0.550" bit to counter sink them. I took the sharp edge of the counter sink bit this illuminates the possibility of tear out .
I just line the template to the sides clamp it bore the holes 1/4" and then counter sink them 0.190" deep
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be back later
 
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At this point I do a test fit and check and make sure the vent fits
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Now I can finish sand the top and glue it together I made a clamping block for holding them square this block works for SX-850 SX-950 SX-1050 SX-980 SX-1080
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after a hour I glue the 4 gussets this is as far as I got I will finish it tomorrow
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Now it's time to mark the holes for the vent I use a 9/64 drill bit the same size as the vent holes and point drill to mark the case then use a 1/16 drill bit to drill the holes.
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Now I square the inside corners the same as the original case just use a sharp chisel
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time to make the face blocks this is a scrap piece I saved to make face blocks I use the plainer for this step you can also make them on the table saw I plane one side then rotate 180 degrees set my plainer to 0.910" finish plane the depth
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rotate the piece 90 degrees plane it them rotate 180 and set the planer 0.750" and finish plane the width.
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Back to the table saw set the stop on the miter gauge to the original face block and cut them to length that wraps all the wood work time to give it a finish sand and stain.
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Be back later to wrap it up
 
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All done turned out good at least I'm happy, this is the finished cases.

The only time I use my tape measure on this project is when I went to the wood pile to measure the stock for this project, I use the patterns I made to set my table saw fence and my cross cut sled stop and my miter gauge stop, when I get asked for measurements by members that want make their own case I don' have any to give then I always go off the patterns I make.

The board I used was 4" wide and just over 10' feet long and 1 1/8 thick rough saw stock finished planed it to 1" thick I chopped 2 pieces 24" long to glued together for the tops and cut 4 18" pieces gluing 2 pieces each for the sides after re sawing them it half I had enough stock to make 2 cases out of the one board.

I took all the pictures with my iphone it makes the walnut look like plastic I didn't like the way they look in the pictures.
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I hope this shearing of secrets doesn't mean anything?
Zeb I have no secrets, I have been out of walnut down to scraps pieces found this board in the wood shed it was just enough to make 2 Cases so it was now or never, I had documented a how to build SX-1250 and a SG-9500 case lost it when my Hard Drive died.
I had a never ending supply of walnut back then I can't believe it's all gone making cases. I'm not getting any younger found out I can't take on the big projects any more without help. I been looking for a new source for walnut but no luck I'm going to miss making them if I ever get to Vegas I will take the walnut you have no the shelf in your shop home with me .
 
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Its yours if you can make the trip.
I'd like nothing better than to see it used for the common good and what turns out from that shop of yours :thumbsup:
 
Hi Sawdust,
Nice work, thanks for documenting the procedure. I wish I lived near by so I could help you out when you need a hand and also learn from an expert.
Have you ever made speaker cabinets?
I had documented a how to build SX-1250 and a SG-9500 case lost it when my Hard Drive died.
I suggest to get a Seagate external USB drive for backup, it saved my bacon when my HDD crashed, cost me about ~$100, worth every penny. Make sure you get one that comes with the Seagate Dashboard software so it does daily incremental backup automatically.
 
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