PIONEER SX-1250 NEW CASE BUILD

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by sawdust, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    This time I want to share how I make a Case out of solid walnut it time to dress up my SX-1250

    Off to the scrap pile to pick out the stock this board is 90 inches long and 5 inches wide. I will half to cut it in half and glue it together to get the width I need I will cut it now ,next I will pick out and mark the best grain match now off to the jointer to straighten the outside edges I will do all 4 edges now that way after gluing them together I will have a straight edge when I rip to width on the table saw
    IMG_5468.JPG IMG_5469.JPG IMG_5470.JPG

    after joining the edges I got a good grain match I'm happy with it so I will glue them together I use Titebond III wood glue I let the glue soak for a minute or two before clamping them together
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    IMG_5477.JPG IMG_5481.JPG This is the under side that won't show when finished remember I got this board out of my scrap pile IMG_5483.JPG Be back after glue dries
     
  2. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    Now that the glue dried over night it's off to the table saw to parallel it to width hopefully their will be enough left over to make some face blocks . after ripping one side I set my fence using this side pattern I made I add 1/8" extra that way I cam parallel it to exact width after the planer
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    Now that it parallel off to the jointer to flatten one side
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    my old case measures 0.485 thick this is my target thickness my planer has a digital readout accurate within + or - 0.001" so off to the planer
    IMG_5506.JPG IMG_5517.JPG After the planer IMG_5518.JPG

    now back to the jointer to straighten one edge I will remove about 0.020
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    I set my fence on my table saw using the pattern I made put the jointed edge to the fence and rip it to width.
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    be back after lunck
     
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  3. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    Time to cut the miters Tilt the blade exactly 45 degrees, I modified my miter sled with simple through bolt stops so their is no measuring quick easy, I use a forest woodworker 1 thin kerf blade 1/6" thick to minimize material loss at the miter joint I have dedicated this blade solely for this use , I mark my top side with frog tape it doesn't pull out the wood fibers like the blue painters tape does then center the old case on the new piece and mark it this gives me a reference where to start
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    After cutting the top right miter I turn the right side to the fence and cut the right side miter save the fall out will use them later on for the corner braces
    IMG_5531.JPG IMG_5535.JPG
    Now I bolt the top stop in and cut the left miter for the top then turn the left side to the fence and cut the side miter again save the fallout piece,
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    how to check the miter joints, I but the sides to the fence and see if their is any gaps if you have any gaps your miter sled needs adjusting
    IMG_5538.JPG IMG_5544.JPG

    back later
     
  4. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    Time to change the blade back and cut the sides , I set my stop on my cross sled using the pattern I made then cut both sides
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    Time to finish the top I made a pattern for this I use two sided tape to hold the top in place off to the band saw
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    I cut the back of the top out at the band saw then to the router table to finish it with a trim bit
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    Now I mark the top to router out the under side , I use the old case and a square to transfer my lines off to the router table to finish the top set the bit height 0.220" and fence depth 1.050" from the far side of the bit I put reference lines on the fence to indicate the width now only router the under side between the lines . then set the fence depth to 0.670" to the far side of the bit , I do my first pass backwards to illuminate the possibility or any tear
    IMG_5577.JPG IMG_5575.JPG be back later
     
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  5. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    now mark the top to router the back out I use the old case for this, I use a 1/4" bit for this set bit height to 0.240 and fence depth to 0.775 from far side of the bit then cut the depth, reset the fence to 0.255" from far side of the fence then cut across both ends of the back
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    Now for the mounting holes, I use a router with a 3/4" collet a 1/4" bit to bore the holes and a 0.550" bit to counter sink them. I took the sharp edge of the counter sink bit this illuminates the possibility of tear out .
    I just line the template to the sides clamp it bore the holes 1/4" and then counter sink them 0.190" deep
    IMG_5556.JPG IMG_5557.JPG back later
     
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  6. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    Cut the corner braces out of the pieces saved from the miter cuts need 4 of them 1 15/16" wide
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    Time to glue it up, I but it up to the fence on my table saw to keep it straight making sure the miter joints are tight then use frog tape to hold them it place the tape also it will illuminate any glue squeeze out , I let the glue soak for one to two minutes before gently clamping it, then I glue the corner braces in and check both sides for square let the glue set I will finish it tomorrow
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  7. restorer-john

    restorer-john Super Member

    Messages:
    4,246
    Location:
    Australia
    Oh my goodness. This is a masterclass.

    Thanks so much for sharing. :)
     
  8. ilusndweller

    ilusndweller Addicted Member

    Messages:
    5,217
    Awesome tutorial. I see a SX-750 future project.
     
  9. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    I'm back
    Now that the glue has set we can remove the frog tape and see how it looks
    IMG_5589.JPG IMG_5590.JPG

    Time to cut the tongue on the top, I set my fence using the pattern I made, the old case measures 0.075" bump the fence toward the blade 0.075" the old case measures 0.130" down from the top I raise the blade height to 0.130" I also made a piece to fill in the back of the case where the cut out is that goes to the fence I secure it with double side tape this keeps the top straight on the fence
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    then I cut the tongue should end up with 0.135" x 0.130 and 0.075 deep
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    Now I score the tongue using the old case I use my knife then raise the blade to the score line and cut both sides
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    Be back later
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
  10. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    Now I square up the back corners with a sharp chisel
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    this step is optional some Pioneer SX-1250 cases did not have the vent screen block cut 2 pieces 1.565''L X 0.240"H X 0.200"W glue them flush with the bottom
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    time to make the face blocks remember the piece I saved when I cut width , I use the plainer for this step you can also make them on the table saw I plane one side then rotate 180 degrees set my plainer to 0.995" finish plane the depth
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    rotate the piece 90 degrees plane it them rotate 180 and set the planer 0.730" and finish plane the width.
    IMG_5643.JPG IMG_5640.JPG
    Back to the table saw set the stop on the miter gauge to the original face block and cut them to length that wraps all the wood work time to give it a finish sand and stain.
    IMG_5633.JPG
    be back later
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
  11. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    now it time to give it a good sanding and put some stain on it , Picture before sand and stain.
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    I will be back tomorrow
     
  12. ZeroJunk

    ZeroJunk Super Member

    Messages:
    1,152
    Location:
    Browns Summit N.C.
    My father was a carpenter and cabinet builder, but nothing of that precision. I can appreciate how cool that really is.
     
  13. peerson

    peerson Active Member

    Messages:
    461
    Location:
    Kansas City area
    I would LOVE to do this on my SX1250! But, I do not have the skill or the equipment to do it right.
     
  14. redk9258

    redk9258 Super Member

    Messages:
    1,161
    Location:
    Illinois, close to St. Louis.
    Norm Abram would be proud!
     
  15. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Cleaned up the shop and half finished sets. Subscriber

    Messages:
    4,093
    Location:
    Las Vegas Nevada
    I'm fascinated with the process and you make it look like I could make one.
     
  16. sawdust

    sawdust I was born to protect and serve Subscriber

    Messages:
    344
    Location:
    Michigan
    All done with the finish after a final sand and a coat of stain it turned out looking good for the board I used.
    This project was fun to share I have made a few dozen maybe more that why I made patterns to keep it simple if your only going to make one just copy your old case.
    I have had several original pioneer SX-1250 cases pass through my shop they all measure different the old case I use to copy fit my SX-1250 the best .
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    IMG_5670.JPG IMG_5677.JPG
     
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  17. macyjrm

    macyjrm AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,112
    Location:
    Mississippi
    Sawdust, I'm the proud owner of one of your cases. So much better than what the factory built! Well done, sir.
     
  18. tsd71

    tsd71 RIP Tom Petty Subscriber

    Messages:
    2,736
    Location:
    New Jersey
    As always very nice work Amos, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
     
  19. peerson

    peerson Active Member

    Messages:
    461
    Location:
    Kansas City area
    What would it cost to have you make me one?
     
  20. kramden

    kramden Active Member

    Messages:
    140
    Workmanship is impeccable but what is more amazing is Sawdust's tissue re-generation abilities! ;)
     

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