Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by ukza, Oct 17, 2018.
The originals are 64mm diameter, not sure how you'll fit 90mm diameter caps in there.
Go with the original diameter ecaps, there is no room to fit anything wider. Why make life more difficult than it already is ?
I am tired of waiting for a txturbo PS pcb (AWR-154) at >$600 USD, I started to design my own, anyone interested in one? Input is welcome, but I'll start a new thread if interested.
Kev, are you on a 4 day work week, with the new law in NZ?
#kevzep , that is true. I think my work is eating my brain
I will send them back and order right ones
I ordered all the parts for the board, bulk tester is ready, now I need patience waiting for everything arriving.
He could sell the Gerber file?
You will not regret getting the right ecaps, the ones on that BOM they fit perfectly, I think you have to enlarge the holes on the terminals in the amplifier, but that easy enough to do. The screw terminals are ever so slightly larger.
I'd be interested in getting a 154 board off you Rick if you do a run. The easiest way would be to do the board only and supply a parts list so that you can load the board yourself. Buying a made up board is cool but also very expensive. One of the guys had a board made up for one of the Sansui's (AU-X1), he just supplied the board and we got our own parts, was easy. I did a thread on the one I did http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/slipping-the-new-f2772-into-the-au-x1.841914/
4 day work week? Hell no, I wouldn't get everything done!! My job is a bit ruthless, and then theres the repair business I do on the side.....No time for a 4 day work week in my life sadly....
A new supply board would be awesome, I would be also interested, although I still will do mine with the new parts.
to the thread name -Restoration- I have another question:
The face plate is on top quiet badly scratched. Does anyone has an idea how to get the scratches out?
Does maaaaybeeeee someone has a face plate
I'd be interested if my input is valuable.
Repairing the face plate can be tricky. It's anodised so it has been electroplated so to speak. If its the top, you can flat it off, add in the brushed effect again (if it has it) and then get the top re-anodised. It's a process using a lead electrode as the cathode IIRC. and the plate itself is the anode. They are put into a path of sulphuric acid and a voltage is passed between the lead and the face plate. (12V I think). A bit hazardous due to the acid. Certainly do not follow my instructions as any sort of guide but that is a vague outline of the process. The main danger is the acid.
But it shows that these things can be repaired and don't have to be cast to the side.
Thx for your feedback, I will continue with the AWR-154 power supply design and start a new thread once I have it ready for review. I would not sell the gerber/fab data, since I would have no control over where it went. Would offer blank and stuffed/tested pcbs, with a link to the Mouser or Digikey BOM as I did for the STK-0050.
Does this mean i would get the first board? that would be awesome .
This was a stupid quote from me regarding his boards.
Turbo could sell the boards only and probably do better in the end. Offering the populated and tested for the novice.
Rick, I'm on board (No pun intended ) offering help if I can.
Looks like it’s going viral
Good, enough interest as shown, so I am motivated to complete this task. Once it is ready for review I will create a thread for feedback and to discuss further, back to work ... see if I can get this done in 2018.
So... today was the day:
I got the fuses and the DBT ready.
The light is a 120W (size matters)
17. +80V +76.6
18. -80V -78.2
11. -34V -42,1
8. -30V -35.9
12. +30V +35.9 but nothing connected there
9. +34V +35.9
14. +13.5V +13.4
15. +5V +5.1
16. +8V 8.0
What you saying?
I have the power amp boards out.
The lights came up, the relay clicked on and FM light works and the meters for tuning also working when I moved the tuning knob.
Good stuff, looks okay to me.
good one, double ended halogen lamp, probably want to use a 150-200W in the DBT for if/when you install the power amps.
Clean all those pins so they shine again.
incandescent are getting scarce, there are 150W heat lamps till available.
I have the AWR-054 schematic almost done
You mean the AWR-154 right?
Are you going for a complete redesign using modern technology?
I wonder why some of my measurements so high? Will it get better when the new parts in?
yes AWR-154/155. right now I have it almost the same as original except using different relays and the new parts.
I will start a new thread so we can discuss this re-design.
The supply voltages are fine, they depend a bit on load and newer comps may bring them closer to documented, but 5-10% tolerance is expected using 5% resistors, zener diodes
-34V supply I have to ? why that is so far off.
Yes the only voltage I question is the -34V supply, that is a little outside what I would expect...
Check the supply voltage to the -34V rail and double check components used. Maybe you have a transistor backwards somewhere that is opening up the series pass transistor?
The new parts not in yet. Those measurements I did with the original parts in.
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