Pioneer SX-525 Strange sounds - Source of issue?

rocknroller

Active Member
Have this SX-525 with several sound issues:
1) Immediately when turning on, there is a fairly loud "pop" sound. A lot of older devices make a sound when turning on but it just seems to be a little louder then one/I might expect. Anything to check there?

2) If I turn the bass knob immediately after powering on, i get a loud (enough) rustling sound, reminiscent of a really dirty pot. However the pots have been cleaned (several times, as well as all the tape switches etc etc). The rustling is unaffected by the volume or balance (turn out these are earlier in the circuit path, see diagram) and the source audio selected doesn't matter. The control amp board has had all lytics replaced (and several on the main amp board that follows as well). But the kicker is this rustling is ONLY present for the first 5-6 seconds, then disappears and ONLY present if I rotate the bass knob. If I don't touch the knob for 5-6 seconds, there is no issue. I've repeated this test dozens of times. If I wait 6-7 seconds before turning the bass knob, all is fine. But if I don't, it rustles. A dirty pot wouldn't care about the timing so I don't believe that is the root cause. It's as if some component is either warming up or charging up and at that point the issue resolves itself. The problem is worse in the left channel then the right, but seems present in both.
Pioneer sx-525 control amp.jpg

3) Lastly, In debugging effort to #2 above, I sprayed the input selector rotary switch. When I did and switched to Phono I got a terribly loud howl on both channels - slightly different frequency pitches and a machine like rat-tat-tat sound, each channel at a slightly different speed. On the oscilloscope it looks like a really bad repeating square wave. Eventually this sound cleaned up on it's own but as it did the pitch keep rising, volume diminished until it disappeared altogether. The phono source was playing through this but the howl was present whether or not anything was connect. I could "shut it up" with a rca terminator plug. I thought maybe I has sprayed a nearby board and that had some effect so the next time I made sure to spray only the rotary switch - same thing. While this really falls in the "Dr it hurts when I do this - Ok don't do that" I'm curious if anyone has an explanation as to why that happens when I do that?
 
Does the SX-525 have a protection relay.

If not, then all the odd things during initial turn on are just artifacts while the capacitors are charging up and the system reaches stable operation. I think that’s what’s causing number 2.
 
Does the SX-525 have a protection relay.

If not, then all the odd things during initial turn on are just artifacts while the capacitors are charging up and the system reaches stable operation. I think that’s what’s causing number 2.
No protection relay. So this is all "normal"? Nothing to be done about it?
 
As above, probably start up transients.
While power ON/OFF muting is desireable, DC voltage protection in vintage amps is just about mandatory.
Consider fitting an el-cheapo (chinese?) speaker protection board, they can be had off the bay for about USD10-
probably need a 12V, 1VA transformer, maybe USD20- all up, to protect your speakers and perform muting.

Maybe take a look at/replace C24, it and R47 look like timing for maybe a soft start circuit, maybe not...
 
Hello...I have a SX1000TD, The pop when turning on is normal, just make sure the volume is off. The rat-a-tat is caps. This unit is old enough to replace all the electrolytic ones. I believe there are 4 transistors that are also suspect, change them too. It is not a hard job to do if you have a solder station and a sucker. Do one board at a time making sure the new caps are oriented to their positive and negative places on the board and power it up with speakers attached to make sure it works and no mistakes were made. Then go to the next board and so forth. You may lift a run on the board or even break it. Not to worry you can solder a thin wire to connect the gap or super glue it back to the board and flow in some solder. Work slowly, I found it to be an enjoyable project. You can get the caps at Digakey, Mouser, etc. The service manual should have a list of the caps for each board. Good luck, it's well worth it.
 
As above, probably start up transients.
While power ON/OFF muting is desireable, DC voltage protection in vintage amps is just about mandatory.
Consider fitting an el-cheapo (chinese?) speaker protection board, they can be had off the bay for about USD10-
probably need a 12V, 1VA transformer, maybe USD20- all up, to protect your speakers and perform muting.

Maybe take a look at/replace C24, it and R47 look like timing for maybe a soft start circuit, maybe not...

If you are talking about the main amp board, R47 right on the nose, c24 reads 46uf and .53 esr so looks good...
 
Perfectly normal behavior for any cap coupled receiver at startup. The thump and the rustling controls for the first few minutes are characteristics of that type of amp circuit and are nothing to worry about, they all take a few minutes to stabilize. No need for a protection circuit with a cap coupled amp.
 
Perfectly normal behavior for any cap coupled receiver at startup. The thump and the rustling controls for the first few minutes are characteristics of that type of amp circuit and are nothing to worry about, they all take a few minutes to stabilize. No need for a protection circuit with a cap coupled amp.
Glad to hear that. Since I've never had a cap coupled amp before, I had no basis for comparison.
 
The rat-a-tat is caps. This unit is old enough to replace all the electrolytic ones. I believe there are 4 transistors that are also suspect, change them too.

Why would spraying the rotary selector control have any impact on the caps or transistors??
 
A dirty contact can also produce noise until the current thru the contact can burn thru the dirt (if it's a high current switch). Low current switch can't do this, so a cleaning with DeOxit (which softens the oxidation and exercise scrubs it off) can and will in most cases rule out dirty contacts. Cheap, and quick to do, and a lot of times all a unit will need to get it runing enough to at least test.
 
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