Pioneer SX-680

IBSO52

Member
Check out this Pioneer SX-680 with it's original box.

Any advice other Audiokarma members have on cleaning the unit would be helpful. It will need some TLC and plan to give it a good cleaning with DeoxIT.

I plan to continue to post photos on this thread as I clean the unit up.
 

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I had some free time today so I decided to try and get the 680 up and running. I attached speakers to the receiver and powered it on after connecting into the AUX input. The music started to play but at a very low level, as I tried to turn the volume up the speaker would start to pop and get extremely loud. Does anyone know what might be wrong? Does it need a simple DeoxIT cleaning? Does it need serviced?, if so any idea of how much I would be looking at?

I wasn't able to solve the problem so I thought I would use my time wisely and clean the unit. Attached are photos of what I encountered when I took off the case.

Hopefully someone has some advice or could help. Anything would be appreciated.

PS - I will post more photos once I get the unit cleaned out.
 

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Blow it out and Deox all the controls and see if it improves.
Best to check the speaker terminals for DC balance and any high DC voltage. You already had it connected to speakers but a quick check should be done.
I would also look/clean the speaker protection fuses and holders. With the dirt and crust seen in the photos, every connection would be suspect.
 
So I was able to use a can of compressed air. It did an all right job but looks like I will need to go with the air compressor. @zebulon1, Are there any good video tutorials of a Deox cleaning on a Pioneer SX?
 

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http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/

I'll remove the faceplate and bottom cover. remove the front boards with the controls (Leaving the wire harness connected) Remember: Never remove any wires. This gives good access to the holes/openings in the pots and switches. In most cases I'll remove the pots from the boards and Deox the pot alone. It is a little kooky but you get a much better angle for applying the Deoxit. I don't suggest you go to this level without a desoldering tool. If all you have is a iron, wick and minimal experience, then there's a good chance you'll cause more damage by going my route.
A good Deoxit treatment per the instructions in the link, should be more than adequate and bring the set back to life.
 
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Those units do get loud quick. just how they are.

Hopefully the popping is just dirty controls.
Volume controls work by grounding out the audio signal.
Dirt or gunk causes a tiny loss of ground, letting full signal through for a short burst and you get a pop.

Get the controls clean and you may be golden.

One common problem they seem to have is the power supply to the tuner.
Its a simple transistor and zener system so easy to repair if needed.
 
In your last picture in the 1st group is the tuner CAPACITOR (finned unit that rotates). This is an AIR GAP cap so any dust, dirt, junk, etc. between the fins will wreak havoc with tuning. Blow it out with AIR (preferably dry) and DO NOT get DeOxit NEAR IT. Cover it with a plastic bag if you are DeOxit'ing any controls near it. After all the cleaning is done, run down to Home Depot and get can of CRC "QD" ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER. This is a NON RESIDUE contact cleaner and ok for cleaning out Tuner Caps. Set it on it's side tuner side down and turn the tuner so the fins are NOT MESHED. FLOOD the fins with the CRC, making sure you get in between each and every fin. Let dry for a couple hours in the sun. Fire it up and check out the tuner. It should be good to go. If it's off frequency let it dry some more for a couple of days. Even the CRC can change the tuning temporarily while it dries. I've had tuners running 15 minutes afterwards and with no ill effects. But as dirty as that one is I'd flood the fins, getting them clean, and let them sit in the sun a couple days.
 
@zebulon1 - I plan to give it a good deox, need to get my hands on an air compressor the canned air just didn't cut it

@blhagstrom - I'm hoping it's only the controls being dirty will let you know once I clean them

@larryderouin - Ordered some CRC waiting for it to come in

Thanks for the advice and help. I'm looking forward to working on it once I get all the material.
 
@larryderouin, I got the tunner capacitor looking pretty good. The air compressor worked miracles that's for sure. Used canned air at first but probably only cleaned 1/4 of the unit. The air compressor cleaned the rest and got it looking pretty good.
 

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Need some help!!!!!

So I finally got around to cleaning the pots and switches with Deox. I have two questions, how do I go about getting the push buttons off? They are in the need for some serious cleaning. I tried pulling on them but don't want to pull to hard as I'm scared something will break. My second questions is what type of foam is on the inside of the sides of the face plate of the receiver? The foam is old and is breaking apart when it's touched. Any advice or help would be appreciated. I attached photos of the buttons and also the inside of the face plate. Thanks for the help.
 

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I never found a good replacement for the foam lamp light sealers. They also keep the dust from the dial area.
The buttons can be left on. Those kind have to stay if they don't come off without a light pull.
You should be able to get the Deoxit straw in the sides with the buttons installed.
That receiver is crusty! It will play. And a good learning lesson set.
 
@zebulon1 , I came across this on the internet going to try this and see how it works. Adhesive on the one side and foam on the other. Should work pretty well.
 

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I finally got it hooked back up and it sounds great. I'm really surprised at how well the Deoxit and contact cleaner worked. A+++++

I still need to clean the buttons which are really dirty and the faceplate and replace the foam but the unit sounds great.
 

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I finally got it hooked back up and it sounds great. I'm really surprised at how well the Deoxit and contact cleaner worked. A+++++

I still need to clean the buttons which are really dirty and the faceplate and replace the foam but the unit sounds great.

Clean the buttons with some metal polish. There are too many brands to choose from. Up to you.

That crusty stuff should come off with some work.

This is what I use to clean and polish my metal work with.
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BTW.. How much are you guys paying to the CRC products over there ?

I ask, because the Deoxit stuff here is quite expensive. Around AUD$45 a can !!

I wonder if the price discrepancy is reciprocated with the CRC products as they are made here in Sydney, Australia.


Good work so far :thumbsup:
 
@Awesomeaudio, do you use a tooth brush to scrub between the cracks? The bigger knobs cleaned up fairly easy but that was because I was able to scrub them. I'm not really sure how to address the push buttons because they are still connected and won't come off. Is the metal polish you use abrasive ?

I paid like $10 for CRC and between $12-$20 for the Deoxit products.
 
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A tooth brush is certainly useful for the ingrained buttons. Yes, by all means use a tooth brush if you need to.
For the push buttons, you can use a microfiber cloth. Put some product on the buttons and use the cloth in a way like you would if you were polishing a shoe.
I grab the cloth from both ends and go side to side. I hope I'm making sense.
The polish I use isn't abrasive actually. It polishes very well and doesn't harm the faceplate.
I'm also surprised at how cheap your CRC product is too. 10 bucks is pretty reasonable.
Let us know how you get on.
 
@Awesomeaudio, Still haven't had time to get the metal polish but hoping to get to the store tomorrow.

I found a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner at a thrift store that I will be placing the bigger knobs in. I will keep you updated on how that turns out.

You should check Ebay might be able to find CRC products cheap there and maybe even Amazon
 
Has anyone used this product? If so, what are the pros and cons?
 

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Blue Goo? Good Stuff! We use it on the Memorial sub in Baltimore to polish up all the Brass, copper, and chrome on the boat. You literally need Welder's goggles to be able to navigate onboard. Con is you have to 2 step (polish until the residue turns black, then let dry a bit and buff off.) to get it off the metal and you'll definately be tired after polishing 50ft of 4" diameter Low Pressure blow lines. On the 680, you'll get a workout on the front panel and the knobs.

Speaking of knobs, I take them off and drop them in a large bowl of HOT WATER and Dishwasher Detergent (Cascade). Let sit for 15 minutes, aggitate every 5 minutes or so. You'll see the water turn Dark Brown. Drain off solution and rinse with HOT WATER and towel dry. Then you can use a smidgen of Blue goo to bring out the luster. Use it sparingly as a little goes a long way. DO NOT RUB IT hard on the lettering. Just wipe it on the lettering, and wipe off.

Weatherstripping. I get 3/8 x 3/16" roll at Home Depot (Frost King). Works good on most all receivers I've done. My Sansui 1000A I had to use a larger size.
 
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