Pioneer SX-737 rebuild BOM

loweran

Super Member
I have been reading about rebuilding the SX-737 and there is a lot of good information here. There are many threads with parts referenced and Mark The Fixer (MTF) seems to be a definitive source of information here. I have user search to the best of my abilities, but cant seem to find a concise BOM for the receiver. Is there a thread someone can point me to with the list of components I should order for a rebuild?
 
Hello,
Since you're a new member at AK, it would be nice to know a little of your background.
Do you have any experience working with electronics? What sort of tools and equipment do you have to work with?
 
Hi Glen65, I am a noob. I have done some work on my guitar amps and guitars. I have done some small circuit board work. Need to brush up on my soldering, but I think I can manage. I am not an EE but can do some studying and follow directions.

I don't have any advanced equipment, but have a good soldering iron and a good DMM.
 
Hi Glen65, I am a noob. I have done some work on my guitar amps and guitars. I have done some small circuit board work. Need to brush up on my soldering, but I think I can manage. I am not an EE but can do some studying and follow directions.

I don't have any advanced equipment, but have a good soldering iron and a good DMM.

The soldering is the most important part of this. Sub par soldering can cause a lot of headaches. Best to practice on something else instead of your receiver.
 
Yeah. I will practice on a sacrificial board before I touch anything.

Great, just a few questions that might help.
Can you give me some specifics on what you're using for a soldering iron and the type of tip it has?
What brand and diameter of solder are you using? What are you using to de-solder with?
 
I also read somewhere that the rebuild should be done in phases. I must be search impaired because I can't seem to find the post. It was something like:
  1. Power supply
  2. Protection Circuit
  3. Amp
Also, should I just focus on transistors and caps? Seems like that is the focus of a lot of the rebuild threads.
 
Thanks for the help Glen65!

I have a Weller WLC-100 and need to buy a new tip. Do you think this will suffice?
Some of the members here use them. Just keep in mind you really cant regulate the temperature with those.

I am putting a shopping list together on Amazon. Here are the items I was considering:

Tip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B607OC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OEG1SKNGURE1
Desolder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_5&smid=A1ONFA8JYPSCVJ
Solder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=A9DVUS2B9UXTW [/QUOTE]

The pointy conical tip is no good for the PC board work on you would be working with. That's because it doesn't have enough physical mass to transfer
the needed amount of heat quickly enough. Best to use a chisel (or screwdriver tip). 1/16 in or a rough metric equivalent is good (1.5-2 MM)
Get one of these to keep your tip clean. http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02..._UL160_SR139,160_&refRID=0VCTEG1G8HQG4YM4YW6S

As for solder suckers, those 5 dollar jobs are generally garbage. If you want one of those, stick with a brand such as Edsyn or OK international.
You should also have some desolder wick. The size #4 (blue container) seem to cover most everything I run across. Make sure its a decent brand,
Chemtronics, MG and Techspray are a few of the brands to go for. The kester solder you listed is just fine.
 
Thanks for the advise. I will look at modifying my list. I am going to need continued support for this project, but I think I am up for the challenge and willing to learn.

I started putting together a task sheet with details that I am gathering on the forum. I will post it when I think it's close to get feedback. I hope that it will help others in the future as well.

On the Weller, it is variable watt, but does not have a temp reading. How should I adjust it to the right temp? You know, I have one of those IR temp gauges, I bet I could use that to determine what setting is best and get it dialed in.

If not the Weller, what iron do you recommend?
 
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I've been using my WLC-100 for about 3 years now. I find that a setting of just shy of 5 produces the best results. 4-1/2 is too cold and 5 is max and too hot. Experiment with the settings a little while on the sacrificial board. You don't have too may choices of tips for it, but the screwdriver bit either 1/8" or 3/16" are both pretty good overall for working electronics. I use the 1/8" tip for circuit board work and the 3/16" tip for point to point work. These are the ST3 (1/8") and ST-4(3/16") tips. Parts Express #'s are 372-123(ST-3) and 372-124 (3/16"). They run between $4.00 and $5.00.
 
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Thanks for the advise. I will look at modifying my list. I am going to need continued support for this project, but I think I am up for the challenge and willing to learn.

I started putting together a task sheet with details that I am gathering on the forum. I will post it when I think it's close to get feedback. I hope that it will help others in the future as well.

Good deal, the items I've been talking about now are the most important part of this. Don't be overly concerned with the replacement components yet. Make sure all of the basics/essentials are taken care of first.

On the Weller, it is variable watt, but does not have a temp reading. How should I adjust it to the right temp? You know, I have one of those IR temp gauges, I bet I could use that to determine what setting is best and get it dialed in
.
Larry gave you a recommendation on the setting, but there is no temp adjustment. There's nothing to regulate it at the recommended 650-700 degrees temp.

.If not the Weller, what iron do you recommend?
Any recommendation I make is not targeted at Weller brand itself, but rather the type.
While some might be fine with variable wattage setups, my own recommendation is temperature controlled.
Now if you don't plan on doing much electronic work like this after you finish your receiver, then a more feasible route would be to work with what you have.
However if you plan on doing more of this in the future, then my personal recommendation would be to look at a temp controlled station. One of the advantages
of temp controlled units is that you don't have to sacrifice wattage to get a lower temp. A good quality example of one that won't break the bank is the Hakko FX-888d
which can be had at B&D enterprises. I mention B&D simply because they have a decent price plus there's no danger in getting a counterfeit station. Yes, people counterfeit
the Hakko brand and others as well. Anytime purchasing a station, check to see what tip it comes with. If it comes with a conical tip then go ahead and purchase a chisel tip to go with it.
 
I think for this go around, I will try and use what I have. If I find the Weller just isn't up for it, I will decide to replace it then.

Incidentally, I work for a company that designs and manufactures electronics. Many of my colleagues are hardware engineers. I spoke to one today about soldering and he said I should be fine, but will help if needed. We even have internal courses (Soldering basics, Soldering 2, Soldering 3) Three 8.5 hour courses. Basics has a lecture that covers many topics including safety. There are also people here who would gladly sit with me and give me some lessons if I wish. The issue will be they have pro soldering stations with industrial level equipment.

On the topic of safety, do the big filter caps, or any of the caps for that matter, pose any risk and need to be discharged? I know when I worked on my guitar amps, I had to bleed off the caps. They are nothing to play around with and can kill you don't take precautions.
 
I think for this go around, I will try and use what I have. If I find the Weller just isn't up for it, I will decide to replace it then.
That's fine, if you do everything else correctly and find yourself struggling to turn out good solder work, then about the only thing left at that point would be the heat source.

Incidentally, I work for a company that designs and manufactures electronics. Many of my colleagues are hardware engineers. I spoke to one today about soldering and he said I should be fine, but will help if needed. We even have internal courses (Soldering basics, Soldering 2, Soldering 3) Three 8.5 hour courses. Basics has a lecture that covers many topics including safety. There are also people here who would gladly sit with me and give me some lessons if I wish. The issue will be they have pro soldering stations with industrial level equipment.

Good deal, there's all sorts of info on the subject online but not all of it is necessarily good. Among some of the best online info comes from the equipment maker Pace.
Its dated but I believe they still use it today.

On the topic of safety, do the big filter caps, or any of the caps for that matter, pose any risk and need to be discharged? I know when I worked on my guitar amps, I had to bleed off the caps. They are nothing to play around with and can kill you don't take precautions.
The solid state amps don't carry the same high level of voltage you'll find in tube amps, but it's always a good idea to discharge the main power supply caps.
You can use a resistor or a 100 watt light bulb to discharge most caps that are 120 volts or less. With high voltage caps you will need to use a resistor.
 
Ok, I think I am almost done with my parts list. I need to get some leads for my DMM. I am thinking alligators would be nice for grounding and testing voltages. Also may need some mini grabbers. Any thoughts on these?

So far I have:
Solder tips - I am ordering one 1/16 screwdriver and one 3/32 screwdriver
60/40 .031 solder
Hakko wire cutters
Solder tip cleaning wire
#4 wick
DeOxit lube (already have D5)
DMM Leads
Magnifying glass with light
... and a 20lb bag of patience.
 
Ok, I think I am almost done with my parts list. I need to get some leads for my DMM. I am thinking alligators would be nice for grounding and testing voltages. Also may need some mini grabbers. Any thoughts on these?
The mini grabbers come in handy where there might be a danger of shorting something using alligator clips .

I would include some flux on the list. Yes, the solder has some in it, but I have found that additional flux can make a difference.
Many choices here but I have been using mostly Kester 186 10ml pen dispenser or MG Chemicals 835 Liquid Rosin Flux 125 ml bottle.
If you go with MG it wouldn't be a bad idea to round up a small applicator bottle, or you can apply it with a small brush.

Next, I told you earlier that the Kester 60/40 is a good choice. But lately I've been using their 63/37 .031. It sets up quicker which can help with getting a good solder joint.

Next, round up some 99% isopropyl alcohol. You will need this for removing solder flux and various other cleaning jobs.
 
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BACK to the original question: the sx-737 parts list. I just grabbed the text block of parts numbers from my 2013 list post and ran them into mouser's parts list importer, and it only choked on the stacked film caps (dsf). got no time to unchoke that and others can help, so I'll leave you with two links:

The list of lists:http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-recap-lists-sticky-suggestion.457663/

The sx-737 list in the list of lists: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/deciding-what-caps-to-use.494440/
 
Thanks for the help Mark!
Also, thanks for the video lessons Glen. Those are really informative.
I am getting ready to place some orders. I have to get my supplies to start practicing. The receiver is scheduled for deliver on Tues.

Any think I should do, besides power up on DBT first, when I get it? I would like to try it out as is, but don't want to risk anything. The seller said it works, but develops crackles when listening.
 
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Thanks for the help Mark!
Also, thanks for the video lessons Glen. Those are really informative.
I am getting ready to place some orders. I have to get my supplies to start practicing. The receiver is scheduled for deliver on Tues.

Any think I should do, besides power up on DBT first, when I get it? I would like to try it out as is, but don't want to risk anything. The seller said it works, but develops crackles when listening.

For one thing, don't get too trigger happy with the Deoxit. I'm not saying it won't be necessary, just don't automatically assume the noise is something that can be sprayed away.
Speaking of which, if you already have Deoxit or plan on getting it, see about rounding up a dispenser bottle for it as well, something like below. That one is from Mouser but it doesn't
really matter. Any small bottle similar with a needle tube will be fine. It will help to better control the stuff and not waste it. You can use them for dispensing flux as well. If it gives you too much when trying to use it, just crunch the end a bit to restrict the flow. Next, take plenty of pictures of the receiver before you start replacing anything. Take pics of any boards you plan on doing any work both top and foil side. Make sure you can identify things in the pics such as capacitor and diode polarity, and resistor codes, wire hookups, etc... Yes, there is service literature but I have run across errors in the past. So having something else to look at can be a big help.

fd2_300.jpg

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Apex-Tool-Group-Formerly-Cooper-Tools/FD2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNdIckKBEZymlcJ/FXiJ/O4h%2bdooK/k7k=
 
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Thanks Glen. I have DeOxit spray. Are you saying I should spay it into a bottle and then apply it?

As for the re-build, I am still a ways away from that, but I will certainly be taking lots of photos. I have already been studying the service manual and diagrams. I assume I should rely on what is printed on the board rather than the diagram, at least in terms of pin placement.

Do you know how difficult the knobs are to get to for cleaning with DeOxit?
 
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