Pioneer SX-737 rebuild BOM
- Thread starter loweran
- Start date
Rico126
Active Member
looks like the correct relay per Markthefixer's post:
models:
SX-727 SX-737 xxxxxxx
SX-828 SX-838 SX-850
!!!!!!!!!! SX-939 SX-950
!!!!!!!!!! SX-1010
4pdt chassis mount using upper ears 24v 653-LY4F-DC24 MOUSER.COM stock level 14 @ $11.61
or a substitute:
dpdt chassis mount using upper ears 24v 653-LY2F-DC24 MOUSER.COM stock level 51 @ $ 6.55
being chassis mount, conversion from double connected 4pdt to dpdt contacts is easy
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
to mount this relay use standoffs (mouser.com parts numbers) 15mm M-F aluminum,
need two per side for 30mm: 728-FM2110-3005-A due to the ears being on TOP instead of on the bottom!!
stainless preferred standoff from mouser 15mm (need two per side): 728-FM2110-3005-SS
728-FM2110-3005-A is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm male female aluminum 0.63 /100: 0.43
728-FM2110-3005-SS is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm male female stainless steel 1.07 /100: 0.74
728-FM1262-3005-A is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm female female aluminum 0.59 /100: 0.40
728-FM1262-3005-SS is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm female female stainless steel 0.97 /100: 0.67
models:
SX-727 SX-737 xxxxxxx
SX-828 SX-838 SX-850
!!!!!!!!!! SX-939 SX-950
!!!!!!!!!! SX-1010
4pdt chassis mount using upper ears 24v 653-LY4F-DC24 MOUSER.COM stock level 14 @ $11.61
or a substitute:
dpdt chassis mount using upper ears 24v 653-LY2F-DC24 MOUSER.COM stock level 51 @ $ 6.55
being chassis mount, conversion from double connected 4pdt to dpdt contacts is easy
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
to mount this relay use standoffs (mouser.com parts numbers) 15mm M-F aluminum,
need two per side for 30mm: 728-FM2110-3005-A due to the ears being on TOP instead of on the bottom!!
stainless preferred standoff from mouser 15mm (need two per side): 728-FM2110-3005-SS
728-FM2110-3005-A is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm male female aluminum 0.63 /100: 0.43
728-FM2110-3005-SS is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm male female stainless steel 1.07 /100: 0.74
728-FM1262-3005-A is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm female female aluminum 0.59 /100: 0.40
728-FM1262-3005-SS is 4.5mm od 3mm x 0.5 thread 15mm female female stainless steel 0.97 /100: 0.67
loweran
Super Member
OK, I have the standoffs. So, do you just pull the wires through or do you cut out some of the sheet metal to expose all the terminals. I would worry about the wires shorting on the sheet metal unless it stands off quite a bit. I will take another look next time I open it up.
loweran
Super Member
All, while I realize that I am not completely done with this receiver, I am going to move on with my SX-1010 rebuild. I will need to revisit the outputs and the relay in the SX-737 at some point, but for now, it's stable and sounds great.
To recap the recap, here is what all was done to the receiver:
Thank you all for your help, encouragement, input and patience with me through this journey. Special thanks to Glen, who went well out of his way to get me started and tsd71 for extra help and guidance to finish the project.
The results of the restore have exceeded my expectations. I used the receiver a bit after I fixed the popping. There was something going on with the balance, and Glen felt it was due to voltages. Once I completed the re-build, that was gone. The receiver sounds stunning. I am running it through some EPI M110s that I found and recapped. The bass was the most noticeable improvement. It's much tighter and pronounced than before. The overall tone is warm and the clarity is fantastic. I think the tweeters in the EPIs complement this receiver very nicely. All the controls function as intended and all the lights and dial are nice and clear.
This has been a great experience. I learned with some patience, a lot of research, and help from this board, anyone could tackle this project. If you have a chance to get one of these receivers in good shape, I would recommend you pick it up and rebuild it.
Lastly, I hope I have done a good enough job documenting the journey and that this thread can help someone in the future.
Now, on to my SX-1010 - http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/another-sx-1010-refresh.714238/
To recap the recap, here is what all was done to the receiver:
- Fixed an issue with the output drivers that was causing popping. These were Q1 - Q4. Glen sent me a matched set to install. (Page 13-14)
- Cleaned the knobs and switches , ordered lamps from Dave and replaced all the dial and indicator lamps including a burnt out needle lamp (Page 16)
- Put together a parts list and ordered parts (Page 17)
- Recapped, replaced transistors and trimmers on the amp board (Page 18). This revealed some bad voltages on the power supply.
- Rebuilt the power supply (Page 18) I got a transistor installed incorrectly and had to correct that. (Page 20)
- Recapped, replaced transistors on the protection board (Page 19)
- Recapped, replaced transistors on the control board (Page 20)
- Recapped, replaced transistors on the EQ board (Page 21)
Thank you all for your help, encouragement, input and patience with me through this journey. Special thanks to Glen, who went well out of his way to get me started and tsd71 for extra help and guidance to finish the project.
The results of the restore have exceeded my expectations. I used the receiver a bit after I fixed the popping. There was something going on with the balance, and Glen felt it was due to voltages. Once I completed the re-build, that was gone. The receiver sounds stunning. I am running it through some EPI M110s that I found and recapped. The bass was the most noticeable improvement. It's much tighter and pronounced than before. The overall tone is warm and the clarity is fantastic. I think the tweeters in the EPIs complement this receiver very nicely. All the controls function as intended and all the lights and dial are nice and clear.
This has been a great experience. I learned with some patience, a lot of research, and help from this board, anyone could tackle this project. If you have a chance to get one of these receivers in good shape, I would recommend you pick it up and rebuild it.
Lastly, I hope I have done a good enough job documenting the journey and that this thread can help someone in the future.
Now, on to my SX-1010 - http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/another-sx-1010-refresh.714238/
Even tho the bag say's it's the right number I'm gonna say with some authority that the relay you purchased IS NOT the relay ordered. I've bought the relay that you "ordered" numerous times for a 737, 939 and a 1010. In all cases the new guts fit tightly in the old casing. I would look for markings on the new relay and if different I'd call mouser and tell them they sent the wrong part.
loweran
Super Member
I looked at the one they sent and it has the same part number on the relay as on the invoice.
Maybe this is the correct relay. Looking at the datasheet, it's ~ 28mm X 21.5mm vs the one I have which is 41mm X 28mm
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=pWf36BUtxBg%2beYU5KbhPdw==
Maybe this is the correct relay. Looking at the datasheet, it's ~ 28mm X 21.5mm vs the one I have which is 41mm X 28mm
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=pWf36BUtxBg%2beYU5KbhPdw==
Hello,
I have an SX-737 that I am going to rebuild and have been reviewing the threads. I hope I have the right one and am not interrupting one. Could someone please verify the parts I should use for the #s below? Some are obsolete and I want to make sure I order the correct parts. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.
Frank Young
598-DSF050J474 (OB) c3, c7 AWM-066 MIC-AMP-ASSY
MFG. PART# QYX1H474JTP
MOUSER PART# 647-QYX1H474JTP
DIGI-KEY PART# 493-3475-ND
598-DSF050J224 (OB) c1, c2 AWM-025 PROT-ASSY
MFG. PART# QYX1H224JTP
MOUSER PART# 647-QYX1H224JTP
DIGI-KEY PART# 493-3471-ND
? SOURCE 505-MKS2.22/100/10
598-DSF050J334 (OB) c1, c2 AWH-033 PWR-AMP-ASSY
MFG. PART# QYX1H334KTP
MOUSER PART# 647-QYX1H334KTP
DIGI-KEY PART#
? SOURCE 505-MKS2.33/63/10
2SA726 (and 2SA725??)
MFG. PART# KSA992FBU
MOUSER PART# 512-KSA992FBU
DIGI-KEY PART# n/a
? SOURCE 2SA1015, 2SA733
2SC1451
MFG. PART# KSC3503DSTU
MOUSER PART# 512-KSC3503DSTU
DIGI-KEY PART# n/a
? SOURCE 512-KSC2310YBU
512-KSC3503estu
512-KSC2690AYS
512-KSC2682****
loweran
Super Member
Hi Frank,
Sounds like a lot of fun. You should start a new thread for your build.
Here is what I used in mine, all from Mouser:
AWM-025 PROT-ASSY
c1, c2 505-MKS2.22/100/10
AWH-033 PWR-AMP-ASSY:
c1, c2 505-MKS2.33/63/10
2sa725: 512-KSA992FBU
2sa726: 512-KSA992FBU
2sc1451: 512-KSC3503DSTU
Where it makes sense, buy extras. If you buy from Mouser, there is sometimes a big price break in quantities of 10 or more.
Thanks loweran for the quick response! I will try to start a new thread when I get going on the rebuild.
Ready to start the cap and transistor replacement. I have my parts list and will post it on the new thread today. Thanks for your help!
Hello everyone, I have a quick question. I am planning to do some recapping on my SX-737. I have pulled out the bottom plate and deiced to snoop around and figure out how to remove some of the boards in order to gain access to them. So here is my question...…how the heck do I get access to the power supply board without ripping out all the wires? I'm finding it impossible to remove board and get enough space to gain access the solder joints.
Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated!
Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated!
