Pioneer SX 850 recap list.

mattsd

Super Member
I'm recapping a Pioneer SX-850 for my dad, and I have put together the lists of all the boards except the tuner board. Markthefixer, could you confirm all this? I had a question about a few caps, they have in the description "NL", basically it reads like this: Electrolytic (NL), instead of just electrolytic. They are all CEANL's, but I was wondering what that means. Also there are three on the power supply board that did not have a cap type listed, but I believe that they are general purpose caps, so I put UPW's as the replacements.

Anyway, here is the lists, complete with the subs for the known noisy transistors (2sa725 and 726). Correct me if there are others in this receiver, but those are the ones I know about.

Power Amp Board

AWH-059: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWH-059: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWH-059: C3: 1uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v
AWH-059: C4: 1uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v
AWH-059: C5: 33uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1C330MDD 33uF 16v
AWH-059: C6: 33uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1C330MDD 33uF 16v
AWH-059: C11: 330uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWH-059: C12: 330uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v

AWH-059: Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
AWH-059: Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
AWH-059: Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
AWH-059: Q4: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU

Power Supply Board

AWR-101: C10: 470uF 80v ACH-038: 647-UHE2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-101: C11: 470uF 80v ACH-038: 647-UHE2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-101: C12: 2200uF 35v ACH-060: 647-UPW1V222MHD6 2200uF 35v
AWR-101: C13: 1000uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E102MPD6 1000uF 25v
AWR-101: C14: 220uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWR-101: C15: 470uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J471MHD 470uF 63v
AWR-101: C16: 47uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
AWR-101: C18: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-101: C19: 47uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
AWR-101: C20: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J101MPD6 100uF 63v
AWR-101: C21: 47uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED 47uF 35v
AWR-101: C23: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v

Equalizer Amp Board

AWF-011: C1: 1uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v
AWF-011: C2: 1uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v
AWF-011: C7: 330uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWF-011: C8: 330uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWF-011: C11: 3.3uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
AWF-011: C12: 3.3uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
AWF-011: C17 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWF-011: C18 220uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v

AWF-011: Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWF-011: Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU

Switch Assembly Board

AWS-094: C1: 220uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A221MED 220uF 10v

Flat Amp Board

AWG-038: C1: 2.2uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-038: C2: 2.2uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-038: C5: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C6: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C13: 220uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWG-038: C14: 220uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWG-038: C17: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWG-038: C18: 10uF 25v CEZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWG-038: C23: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C24: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C25: 100uF 10v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1A101KEDANA 100uF 10v
AWG-038: C26: 100uF 10v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1A101KEDANA 100uF 10v
AWG-038: C27: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v

AWG-038: Q5: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWG-038: Q6: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU

Tone Amp Board

AWG-039: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-039: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-039: C15: 2.2uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-039: C16: 2.2uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-039: C19: 100uF 10v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1A101KEDANA 100uF 10v
AWG-039: C20: 100uF 10v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1A101KEDANA 100uF 10v
AWG-039: C21: 47uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED1TD 47uF 35v
AWG-039: C22: 47uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V470MED1TD 47uF 35v
AWG-039: C23: 2.2uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-039: C24: 2.2uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-039: C25: .22uF 35v CSZA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWG-039: C26: .22uF 35v CSZA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWG-039: C29: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWG-039: C30: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v

Protection Board

AWM-062: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWM-062: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWM-062: C3: 330uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062: C4: 330uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWM-062: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v

BOM list:

647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 10
647-UPW1C330MDD | 2
647-UHE2A471MHD | 2
647-UPW1V222MHD6 | 1
647-UPW1E102MPD6 | 1
647-UPW1J471MHD | 1
647-UPW1H470MED | 1
647-UPW1J101MPD6| 1
647-UPW1V470MED | 3
647-UKL1H010KDDANA | 4
647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA | 2
647-UPW1A221MED | 1
647-UPW1V221MPD6 | 4
647-UKL1J4R7MDD | 4
647-UPW1H101MPD | 1
647-UKL1A101KEDANA | 4
647-UPW1V470MED1TD | 2
647-UKL1E100KDDANA | 4
667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 | 4
647-UPW1A331MPD | 6
647-UPW1V4R7MDD | 1
647-UPW1V101MPD | 3
512-KSA992FBU | 8

All were in stock at the time of posting.

Edit: Also, for the replacement of the main filter caps, any recommendations?
 
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Filter cap options from Mouser

Original Dimensions
50mm X 70mm approximate
Uses Lug terminals

Screw Terminals
You will need to install connectors on the wires.

539-CGS50V15000 50.8 mm X 105mm $23.34 each
This should be OK the sx-950 uses a longer cap like this check wire length

75-36DY153F050BM2A 50.8 mm X 67 mm $40.09 each

All the snap ins would require you to come up with a spacer to accommodate the mounting bracket because the Diameter is smaller lots of options here and cheaper....

Now on you question on the NLs

I had a question about a few caps, they have in the description "NL", basically it reads like this: Electrolytic (NL), instead of just electrolytic. They are all CEANL's, but I was wondering what that means.

In short the NL is a designator the tells us that this is a special cap it needs to be a low leakage cap

I posted this before but it applies here

My comments are from my research based on the Pioneer Tuning Fork Docs

Classifications of Capacitors

CE Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors
Leakage Current 0.03CV
Tangent loss of Angle 0.1 to 0.4

CE-NL (Low Leakage Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors)
Leakage Current 0.003CV
Tangent loss of Angle 0.1 to 0.4

CSS Solid Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors for Coupling
Leakage Current 0.003CV
Tangent loss of Angle 0.1 to 0.2

CSZ Solid Tantalum Electrolytic Capacitors
Leakage Current 0.002CV
Tangent loss of Angle 0.1 to 0.2

So from this the codes that you need to use special caps are
CSZ , CSS, and CE-NL

So as MTF and others have said if it is 1 uf and smaller use a film cap
otherwise use the UKL / USL type cap or another brand that is a low leakage cap.


I'm recapping a Pioneer SX-850 for my dad, and I have put together the lists of all the boards except the tuner board. Markthefixer, could you confirm all this? I had a question about a few caps, they have in the description "NL", basically it reads like this: Electrolytic (NL), instead of just electrolytic. They are all CEANL's, but I was wondering what that means. Also there are three on the power supply board that did not have a cap type listed, but I believe that they are general purpose caps, so I put UPW's as the replacements.

Anyway, here is the lists, complete with the subs for the known noisy transistors (2sa725 and 726). Correct me if there are others in this receiver, but those are the ones I know about.

..... DELETED cap list

All were in stock at the time of posting.

Edit: Also, for the replacement of the main filter caps, any recommendations?
 
Thanks guys! Goat67, excellent info there about the meaning of the (NL) caps, thanks a lot! It answered all the questions I had.
 
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Another question, there is a different cap on the power supply board then what is listed on the schematic. C14, which is supposed to be a 220uF 10v on the schematic, is a actually a 47uF 25v. Should I go with what it is on the board, or replace it?
 
Another question, there is a different cap on the power supply board then what is listed on the schematic. C14, which is supposed to be a 220uF 10v on the schematic, is a actually a 47uF 25v. Should I go with what it is on the board, or replace it?

Does it look original?

In this position it is used to slow the ramp up of the function and speaker indicator lamps voltage to avoid thermal shock, so either one would be harmless, the 220 would just take 0.9 seconds to come to full brightness while the 47 would be 0.183 sec


The main illumination lamps ( 4x 8v@0.3A) still run off the transformer directly.


almost missed the question in the static.... :D

now the static's missing..... go figure......
 
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Yes, it is original. I bought the 220uF, so guess I will use it, since it won't harm anything. About the static, I'm not quite sure what it is about, I think it is fine MOTL receiver, and it sounds very good, and that is not just my opinion.
 
Yes, it is original. And I'm not quite sure what the static is about, I think it is fine MOTL receiver, and it sounds very good, and that is not just my opinion.

With the money spent on caps you could buy a little console tube amp and recap . I promise you much better sound and your only talking 6-10 caps not 100 or whatever that old pioneer takes and who wants a tuner if your recapping for sound quality You don't want to listen to radio. I have been through a ton of receivers an amps and just about any SS stand alone amp with seperate PRE amp will sound better than a reciever. If your messing around with old SS receivers I doubt you have tried tubes. Give em a shot you will not be disapointed.
 
Yes, tube does sound good, but has its own sound, just like SS has its own sound as well. It's a user preference thing on what sounds better, some like SS, others tube. Another thing, can you get 65 watts per channel from a small tube amp? My dad uses this for his garage and the power that this thing has is put to good use a lot. And I have a stand alone amp, and honestly it does not sound much better then this receiver.
 
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Yes, tube does sound good, but it it's own sound, just like SS has it's own sound as well. It's a user preference thing on what sounds better, some like SS, others tube. Another thing, can you get 65 watts per channel from a small tube amp? My dad uses this for his garage and the power that this thing has is put to good use a lot. And I have a stand alone amp, and honestly it does not sound much better then this receiver.

Have you done a recap before ? The receiver is going to be a a ton of work for something thats going in the garage
.
 
Have you done a recap before ? The receiver is going to be a a ton of work for something thats going in the garage
.[/If

If you are really set on messing with it you should just start with power supply caps and see if you see any improvment.I bet all the other caps are fine.
 
Have you done a recap before ? The receiver is going to be a a ton of work for something thats going in the garage.

Yep, I've done four of them before this one, and sure it will be a little work, but it's labor of love and I like doing this kind of stuff anyway, so what the heck! I'll do it! As I speak, I've got most of the caps in and only have a few left.

If you are really set on messing with it you should just start with power supply caps and see if you see any improvment.I bet all the other caps are fine.

No, the power supply caps only clean up the power going to the various boards, the caps on the flat, EQ and tone amp's are what shape the sound, and are the ones that are most likely to affect the sound.
 
This seems to be (edit - ARE your first posts) your first foray into the pioneer forum, and it's to start talking down our main activity, one that has delighted the ears of too darn many people here to make it a waste (or placebo) of time and effort... not a way to make friends here.

You seem to LOVE tubes and post a lot in the tube forum - we have an unsaid motto that seems to need saying here - to each his own and don't harsh the other guy's mellow. They are consenting adults engaging in lawful activity.

And .... I GREW UP on tubes, You will NEVER EVER hear me trash talk, put down or even criticize them.

There is something inherently cool in making some metal structures, putting them in the middle of nothingness and coaxing amplification of a signal from that... If I lived on a space station, I'd have a hobby bench OUTSIDE.....
 
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Thanks Mark, I should have said that myself, but him slamming my dad's receiver made me do this: :gigglemad

I have nothing against tube gear either, but solid state is what I like and repair, and I've never really got into tube gear as much as solid state.
 
Have you done a recap before ? The receiver is going to be a a ton of work for something thats going in the garage
.[/If

If you are really set on messing with it you should just start with power supply caps and see if you see any improvment.I bet all the other caps are fine.

brickbuster,
It is obviously apparent that "this Pioneer SS re-cap will be done" regardless of your opinions. Sometimes re-caps are done for other reasons besides being financially frugal and a sentimental reason is just one of them.

Please don't do anymore thread-crapping here.



Thanks for anticipated cooperation,

Retro Stereo
Pioneer Forum Moderator
 
Happy ending! Recapped the whole thing and cleaned several noisy switches, fired it up, and again, I'm amazed at the difference a recap makes. Sound is smoother, clearer and more defined. Very pleased! :yes: :music:
 
final tally??

Hey Mark,
I enjoyed reading the thread as you went and think I would like to recap my 850 as well. Though I know it may not be the best spent money for the sound, it has become a comfort in our home, but money is an issue. Could you tell me what I would expect to spend from soup to nuts?
 
Hey Mark,
I enjoyed reading the thread as you went and think I would like to recap my 850 as well. Though I know it may not be the best spent money for the sound, it has become a comfort in our home, but money is an issue. Could you tell me what I would expect to spend from soup to nuts?

I'm not Mark, but I took the liberty of dropping his BOM (1st post) into Mouser's BOM upload tool and the total came to $19.35, neglecting shipping and the big power supply filter caps that Goat67 mentioned in his reply a few posts down from the 1st.

Add a can of DeOxit, and you're looking at ~$35 - $40, I'd say. A lot more if you want to do the big filter caps.
 
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