Pioneer SX-880 Protection Circuit Fixes

jeffsplat88

Member
Hello Folks,
I don't post very much. I read a lot. So in an effort to contribute to the folks I've learned so much from, I'll do my part with this little tid-bit. Take it for what it's worth.

AK is running slow for me tonight so I don't know if I'm simply repeating well-known information. But I'll do it anyway.

Pioneer SX-880. It appears that many people have discovered there are some problems with the protection circuit. The first, most obvious problem is that Pioneer didn't do their homework in calculation the power dissipation on the transistor-regulator that runs the protection circuit IC. This poor transistor has to drop 50 volts down to 13 volts at several hundred milliamps. This causes that poor transistor to cook and eventually die, usually taking the PCB and a few other components with it. This is a design flaw so if you have an 880, you are well served to modify it now instead of waiting for it to fail. The mod is simple if you are knowledgeable with electronics.

To fix the power dissipation on that transistor, simply DOUBLE that big power resistor that is mounted on the heat sink. It's a 220 ohm 5 watt. Take another and bend the bracket to fit them both in place, and wire it in series so that you get 440 ohm at 10 watts. This lowers the voltage on that regulator transistor which will give it a little more life. Those of you following the schematic will note that those resistors also feed the relay. My testing showed the relay still worked fine with the lower voltage present.

Now, on to the second problem. I run a pair of vintage polks that are rated about 6 ohms nominal but drop to a little above 4 ohms DCR. The Stock 880 hated these speakers, as well as my JBL Jubals. Not necessarily due to the low DCR (the Jubals are much higher), but likely due to excessive inductive kick back current from the speakers back into the amp circuit. I could test the system with 4 ohm resistors all day and have no problems. But the speakers would cause the protection to trip annoyingly early.

So I did a little digging. Those of you who've studied this circuit see that the service manual calls out a Wheatstone bridge circuit that sits across the emitter resistors on the power amp. It turns on a transistor when it sees a load smaller than a prescribed value (note that it's rectified so it's only monitoring half the cycle, and it's only on one emitter vs. both the pos and neg circuit). I tried futzing with the Wheatstone values in an attempt to lower the speaker impedance detection. I lowered this to 25% of the stock value and still could not keep the circuit from tripping with the polks. It improved, but not good enough. There is something else at play here. So returned the Wheatstone values to the stock values and I looked deeper down the circuit. In monitoring the trip signal that feeds the protection IC, I could clearly see it jumping when I turned it up. Jumping a lot. The circuit is clearly too sensitive.

What I also found was that the C418 (or C2 in the circuit description in the service manual) was mounted BACKWARDS relative to the DC voltage applied to it. So I replaced that cap, and also bumped up the value form 47 to 220uf to decrease the hair-trigger from all the pulses it gets from the bridge. This was the fix. Now my 880 can drive the polks and the Jubals into clipping with out tripping. Yet, when I put a pair of polks on one channel (well below the rated load of the amp), the circuit trips at high volume, as it should.

In summary:
1) Increase the power resistor mounted to the heatsink from 220 5w to 440 10w. This will save the regulator.

2) Pull C418 (C2) and reinstall in the correct polarity a slightly larger cap - I used 220uF. I seem to recall that even the PCB had the cap labeled backwards so this was a design error from day one. Check the voltage on that cap before you pull it, label the pos and neg voltage, and reinstall the new cap in accordance with the DC volts you see (you need to push the amp into tripping to see the volts on that cap). I wish I could be more descriptive but it's been a few weeks since I did the fix and can't remember whether it was miss-stuffed or miss-labeled. But it was definitely backwards.

Anyway, my 880 is happy now. Hopefully you others who may be experiencing problems can make your 880 happy too.

PS: I will say that the next thing I will want to do is buy a set of modern beefy transistors to replace the stock power amp transistors. Modern ones can take much more current than those old ones, with higher HFE. So that too will go a long way towards idiot-proofing the 880 for years to come. Cheap insurance.
 
Thanks for the info\experience dump, greatly appreciated! I would like to consider implementing some of this into my SX-880 however it appears just slightly over my head, is there a way you could provide pictures of what you did that better illustrate the process? I have a lot of experience with soldering, mostly with computer system boards and similar electronics but this SX-880 is kind of special to me and I want to be absolutely certain I'm making the right changes to improve its performance.
Currently I'm experiencing a shutdown at higher volumes, around the 11-12 o'clock volume position so not super critical, and only when the bass is increased etc. Would like for it to be solid up to 3\4 volume on clean program material.
Again, thank you for sharing.
 
Dredging up this old thread to see if it was just not seen, or if these suggestions to modify the troublesome power transistor overheating issue is not regarded as what can be done. Can anyone verify if these steps work on the 880 transistor over heating issue? What are good quality replacement transistors for this section on the 880s, and 780s?
 

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Dredging up this old thread to see if it was just not seen, or if these suggestions to modify the troublesome power transistor overheating issue is not regarded as what can be done. Can anyone verify if these steps work on the 880 transistor over heating issue? What are good quality replacement transistors for this section on the 880s, and 780s?
I too, would like to know this. I have an 890 that is semi working.....no problems with it tripping protection circuit, but that transistor and heat sink get terribly hot. Too hot to touch and have discolored the board around it as well.
Everything is working fine on this receiver but no FM, and while I’m trying to troubleshoot and fix that, I would like to fix the heat issue with that transistor.
 
Hello Folks,
I don't post very much. I read a lot. So in an effort to contribute to the folks I've learned so much from, I'll do my part with this little tid-bit. Take it for what it's worth.

AK is running slow for me tonight so I don't know if I'm simply repeating well-known information. But I'll do it anyway.

Pioneer SX-880. It appears that many people have discovered there are some problems with the protection circuit. The first, most obvious problem is that Pioneer didn't do their homework in calculation the power dissipation on the transistor-regulator that runs the protection circuit IC. This poor transistor has to drop 50 volts down to 13 volts at several hundred milliamps. This causes that poor transistor to cook and eventually die, usually taking the PCB and a few other components with it. This is a design flaw so if you have an 880, you are well served to modify it now instead of waiting for it to fail. The mod is simple if you are knowledgeable with electronics.

To fix the power dissipation on that transistor, simply DOUBLE that big power resistor that is mounted on the heat sink. It's a 220 ohm 5 watt. Take another and bend the bracket to fit them both in place, and wire it in series so that you get 440 ohm at 10 watts. This lowers the voltage on that regulator transistor which will give it a little more life. Those of you following the schematic will note that those resistors also feed the relay. My testing showed the relay still worked fine with the lower voltage present.

Now, on to the second problem. I run a pair of vintage polks that are rated about 6 ohms nominal but drop to a little above 4 ohms DCR. The Stock 880 hated these speakers, as well as my JBL Jubals. Not necessarily due to the low DCR (the Jubals are much higher), but likely due to excessive inductive kick back current from the speakers back into the amp circuit. I could test the system with 4 ohm resistors all day and have no problems. But the speakers would cause the protection to trip annoyingly early.

So I did a little digging. Those of you who've studied this circuit see that the service manual calls out a Wheatstone bridge circuit that sits across the emitter resistors on the power amp. It turns on a transistor when it sees a load smaller than a prescribed value (note that it's rectified so it's only monitoring half the cycle, and it's only on one emitter vs. both the pos and neg circuit). I tried futzing with the Wheatstone values in an attempt to lower the speaker impedance detection. I lowered this to 25% of the stock value and still could not keep the circuit from tripping with the polks. It improved, but not good enough. There is something else at play here. So returned the Wheatstone values to the stock values and I looked deeper down the circuit. In monitoring the trip signal that feeds the protection IC, I could clearly see it jumping when I turned it up. Jumping a lot. The circuit is clearly too sensitive.

What I also found was that the C418 (or C2 in the circuit description in the service manual) was mounted BACKWARDS relative to the DC voltage applied to it. So I replaced that cap, and also bumped up the value form 47 to 220uf to decrease the hair-trigger from all the pulses it gets from the bridge. This was the fix. Now my 880 can drive the polks and the Jubals into clipping with out tripping. Yet, when I put a pair of polks on one channel (well below the rated load of the amp), the circuit trips at high volume, as it should.

In summary:
1) Increase the power resistor mounted to the heatsink from 220 5w to 440 10w. This will save the regulator.

2) Pull C418 (C2) and reinstall in the correct polarity a slightly larger cap - I used 220uF. I seem to recall that even the PCB had the cap labeled backwards so this was a design error from day one. Check the voltage on that cap before you pull it, label the pos and neg voltage, and reinstall the new cap in accordance with the DC volts you see (you need to push the amp into tripping to see the volts on that cap). I wish I could be more descriptive but it's been a few weeks since I did the fix and can't remember whether it was miss-stuffed or miss-labeled. But it was definitely backwards.

Anyway, my 880 is happy now. Hopefully you others who may be experiencing problems can make your 880 happy too.

PS: I will say that the next thing I will want to do is buy a set of modern beefy transistors to replace the stock power amp transistors. Modern ones can take much more current than those old ones, with higher HFE. So that too will go a long way towards idiot-proofing the 880 for years to come. Cheap insurance.

So I did this fix to an SX-880, and it solved the Turn-On issue but Only when the unit is cold. If its been running for a while at relatively low volume, and you turn the unit Off, then On Again, it takes 3 to 5 minutes for it to turn back On! Let it cool off for 10 minutes, turned off, and we’re back to a normal 6-7 second Relay Turn on… is this just a trade-off, or is something else possibly awry? Thanks!
 
Sounds like you have a Protection circuit related issue.
Is your Q26 regulator transistor getting excessively hot?
Is pin 1 of the Protection Q35 staying at +13.5vdc whether hot or cold? What is the dc voltage there when you try turning it back on after playing for a while?
 
Hello Folks,
I don't post very much. I read a lot. So in an effort to contribute to the folks I've learned so much from, I'll do my part with this little tid-bit. Take it for what it's worth.

AK is running slow for me tonight so I don't know if I'm simply repeating well-known information. But I'll do it anyway.

Pioneer SX-880. It appears that many people have discovered there are some problems with the protection circuit. The first, most obvious problem is that Pioneer didn't do their homework in calculation the power dissipation on the transistor-regulator that runs the protection circuit IC. This poor transistor has to drop 50 volts down to 13 volts at several hundred milliamps. This causes that poor transistor to cook and eventually die, usually taking the PCB and a few other components with it. This is a design flaw so if you have an 880, you are well served to modify it now instead of waiting for it to fail. The mod is simple if you are knowledgeable with electronics.

To fix the power dissipation on that transistor, simply DOUBLE that big power resistor that is mounted on the heat sink. It's a 220 ohm 5 watt. Take another and bend the bracket to fit them both in place, and wire it in series so that you get 440 ohm at 10 watts. This lowers the voltage on that regulator transistor which will give it a little more life. Those of you following the schematic will note that those resistors also feed the relay. My testing showed the relay still worked fine with the lower voltage present.

Now, on to the second problem. I run a pair of vintage polks that are rated about 6 ohms nominal but drop to a little above 4 ohms DCR. The Stock 880 hated these speakers, as well as my JBL Jubals. Not necessarily due to the low DCR (the Jubals are much higher), but likely due to excessive inductive kick back current from the speakers back into the amp circuit. I could test the system with 4 ohm resistors all day and have no problems. But the speakers would cause the protection to trip annoyingly early.

So I did a little digging. Those of you who've studied this circuit see that the service manual calls out a Wheatstone bridge circuit that sits across the emitter resistors on the power amp. It turns on a transistor when it sees a load smaller than a prescribed value (note that it's rectified so it's only monitoring half the cycle, and it's only on one emitter vs. both the pos and neg circuit). I tried futzing with the Wheatstone values in an attempt to lower the speaker impedance detection. I lowered this to 25% of the stock value and still could not keep the circuit from tripping with the polks. It improved, but not good enough. There is something else at play here. So returned the Wheatstone values to the stock values and I looked deeper down the circuit. In monitoring the trip signal that feeds the protection IC, I could clearly see it jumping when I turned it up. Jumping a lot. The circuit is clearly too sensitive.

What I also found was that the C418 (or C2 in the circuit description in the service manual) was mounted BACKWARDS relative to the DC voltage applied to it. So I replaced that cap, and also bumped up the value form 47 to 220uf to decrease the hair-trigger from all the pulses it gets from the bridge. This was the fix. Now my 880 can drive the polks and the Jubals into clipping with out tripping. Yet, when I put a pair of polks on one channel (well below the rated load of the amp), the circuit trips at high volume, as it should.

In summary:
1) Increase the power resistor mounted to the heatsink from 220 5w to 440 10w. This will save the regulator.

2) Pull C418 (C2) and reinstall in the correct polarity a slightly larger cap - I used 220uF. I seem to recall that even the PCB had the cap labeled backwards so this was a design error from day one. Check the voltage on that cap before you pull it, label the pos and neg voltage, and reinstall the new cap in accordance with the DC volts you see (you need to push the amp into tripping to see the volts on that cap). I wish I could be more descriptive but it's been a few weeks since I did the fix and can't remember whether it was miss-stuffed or miss-labeled. But it was definitely backwards.

Anyway, my 880 is happy now. Hopefully you others who may be experiencing problems can make your 880 happy too.

PS: I will say that the next thing I will want to do is buy a set of modern beefy transistors to replace the stock power amp transistors. Modern ones can take much more current than those old ones, with higher HFE. So that too will go a long way towards idiot-proofing the 880 for years to come. Cheap insurance.
Hello

I have a similar problem with my receiver from the x80 line.
Do the sx880 and sx980 have the same power and protect circuit?
 
Hello

I have a similar problem with my receiver from the x80 line.
Do the sx880 and sx980 have the same power and protect circuit?

Protection circuits are quite similar architecture. Power Supply regulators have similarities, but also critical differences. Start a thread . . .
 
i can verify the resistor swap will pull the amperage from the relay giving the transistor breathing room and will cool it. keep in mind the 5w resistor is attached to the heatsink you will need a stubby screwdriver to remove the bracket, and the replacement fit, except the body stuck out on both sides, and the resistor got hotter than the transistor, i used thermal paste on the resistor to the heatsink side to remove heat. Doubling resistance did not inhibit the relay from turning on, i have a 4 second relay time *unit is 95% rebuilt* before resistor swap i dared not touch the heatsink on the transistor, now i have no problems with it, almost cool enough to remove the metal bracket. my problem with the unit is the 4 ohm trip out at above 30% volume, or popping into protection suspecting low frequency in phono, this only happens when phono is playing, relay turns off for 4 seconds then returns no problems. wondering if anyone has swapped the poles on c418 and had success or not.
 
I would figure out which part of the protect (C418 / (C415/Q33),(C416/Q34),Q36) is triggering protect first. If Q36 is removed, and there is no change, it's C418 - otherwise it's the over current system and it's 0.22uf caps.
 
I would figure out which part of the protect (C418 / (C415/Q33),(C416/Q34),Q36) is triggering protect first. If Q36 is removed, and there is no change, it's C418 - otherwise it's the over current system and it's 0.22uf caps.
yes, i looked into this part, and i did have a before and after with this part, i replaced both the caps and transistors in the circuit after i had the first relay trip from phono, it is specifically phono and 4-ohm speakers it will do this by the way.
 
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The important distinction is if it STOPS triggering by temporary removal of Q36. Then we KNOW it is over-current and NOT DC.

Then Q36 goes back in, and balance control is used to mute one channel at a time - it is a true mute, there will be no over-current to trgger

Both channels is a speaker load problem, one channel bears investigating as to it's sensitivity,. including whether the OTHER speaker moved to that channel does it.
 
I'm having a hard time understanding this... friend of mine has an 880 with this issue after we've gone through and rebuilt. Looking at the schematic, if C418 is backwards then so is C419 which is parallel from the same negative rail supply. Far as I can tell, it goes positive, negative, positive, negative, to the 0V pin for the IC. I don't understand what's backwards here? As a middle ground could I use a non-polar?
 
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Okay, well, I am going to recommend not pulling Q36. Did a test on DBT with it pulled, in my case it was an 1845 already. No short detected, no source light. Reinstalled in unit after testing, no source light.... hm. That doesn't make a lot of sense.

Edit: okay, weird, totally unrelated problem, there were 2 transistor legs that were not soldered! Unit was working fine til now so that's a big WTF lol. Anyway, unit successfully ran 4 ohms tower speakers known to trip the protect circuit at 50% volume with no relay trip with Q36 pulled! So this is a clue, just not sure what next move is.
 
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can confirm unit opperates properly and will not trip relay with q419 uninstalled after testing with 4 ohm Klipsch tower speakers "ive used these b4 and could break 35% b4 relay triped out" now can go 50% no problem
 
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after replacing the cap with a 220, and swapping the .22 for polar caps we got the unit to not trip protection nicely. the baby beast of the house among 100 w giants, sounds realy nice. to all who helped with the resistor tip and the extreme help with the 880 glitch, i do apreciate your time.
 
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